New Cabelas/Pietta 1858 has timing/cylinder lockup issues... need help

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It's a 5.5" that I had shipped to Cabela's. I stupidly didn't check the timing before taking it home but I was excited, and the one I got earlier in the week (the full length one) is perfect. The first couple times I cycled it through all chambers, I noticed the hammer overcocks slightly, and on one chamber the bolt released when the trigger is pulled and the cylinder rotated backward as the hammer was lowered.

I looked at it closely again last night and it only does it occasionally. You cock the hammer all the way and I can't determine if it's always on the same chamber, but now I'm betting it isn't. Once in a while, the cylinder bolt doesn't pop up fully. The cylinder rotates with finger pressure. then if you release the hammer and pull it back again, the bolt pops up. I've tried cocking it slowly, cocking it with authority, making sure to cock the hammer fully, etc. Doesn't seem to make a difference. Once in maybe 20 cycles the cylinder fails to lock.

I don't want to send it back... It's nicely finished, the trigger is a bit heavy but crisp, the stocks/grips are really nice, with some tiger striping/figure and deep colors. If the bolt spring is broken wouldn't it fail to lock every time?

Ideas? Use small words; I'm a fairly capable "hobby gunsmith" but I know almost nothing about the internals of these things. Guess I'm getting a crash course. :rolleyes:

Is it possible that this is a cylinder issue rather than an internal issue? In other words, would a Howell conversion cylinder (which I was planning to purchase anyway) possibly resolve it? My instincts say no... but just hoping. :banghead:
 
I would almost bet there is a small bur in the frame slot or on on the bolt itself hanging it up.
Could even be a cracked trigger/bolt spring right from the get-go.

I'd take the grip frame off and see what you can see in there.
They ain't that complicated and you need to know how to do it anyway for through cleaning occasionally if you shoot black powder.

rc
 
Don't think you can take the grip frame off on the 1858... but I'll take it apart and have a look, and maybe see if I can find some sharp edges to stone a bit. I hate to let this one out of my hands now that it's here. Even if I ruin it and it has to be a wall hanger. :rolleyes:
 
Just take a strong flashlight and study the internals as you slowly work the action. The bolt has two "legs" - left and right. The left one rides on the hammer cam. "The cam" is that thing protruding on the lower right side of the hammer, just atop of the cocking notches.

Boris
 
The first thing to do is just take out the one screw and take the trigger guard off and look for burs or a cracked bolt spring.

Don't worry about modifying parts yet until you rule out the "even a cave man can do it" stuff.

rc
 
Well I checked it out; no obvious issues to this tyro of a cap/ball smith. No broken springs. Plenty of razor sharp edges and I took the obvious sharp bits off with a fine india stone and very light strokes (particularly careful on the end of the hand and around the sear surfaces on the trigger and hammer). Also touched up the bottom/forward edges of the trigger (which were like knives) and the sharp edges of the opening in the trigger guard.

Put it back together, same problem. :rolleyes: Probably 1 in 20 or sometimes 1 in 10 the bolt doesn't lift up to stop the cylinder. If I release the hammer and pull it back again the hand clicks into place.
 
Any other ideas? Mizar I'm not clear about the right-leg/left-leg thing. I see a bolt piece with a hole in it for the screw in the middle. The bolt goes forward, other leg goes up. What right/left are you talking about? can you post a pic?

EDITED to fix my mistake about the hand
 
Last edited:
The Remington and Colt actions are identical in form, although the shape of the parts are different.

Unfortunately explaining how to time either cap & ball revolvers would take a book, or at least a long and extensive post (or posts).

However, other then removing and re-assembling the mainspring, disassembling the lockwork is not difficult. After removing the trigger guard, take out the cylinder & bolt spring after removing a screw. Then remove the trigger screw, and you can drop out the trigger and cylinder bolt.

Next back out the mainspring strain screw and tap the spring out of the slot at the bottom of the frame. Be aware that this can be difficult.

Last, remove the hammer screw and drop the hammer down low enough so that you can remove the hand screw. Pull the hand down and out, and then lift the hammer up and out.

Inspect the parts for obvious roughness, grinding or file marks, and burrs. Then report back what you find.
 
Thanks fuff... as noted above, I got it apart, buffed, and reassembled last night, with no improvement in function.

RC, the remington does have a split type bolt like the one you linked. However from my perspective it's the RIGHT edge that bears against the hammer cam (or whatever it does; I'm still not clear on all the aspects of timing/function). Right side with the gun facing forward.
 
If the barrel is facing away from you, then it's the left bolt leg that is in contact with the hammer cam. Please, take a good flashlight and look at the hammer crevice while you slowly work the action. This leg must clear the cam when the hammer is at full cock.

Boris
 
Okay, I'll have another look. Logically I can't see how that would work because the cam is on the left side of the hammer. But I'm sure I'm wrong.
 
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