New Oil Finish on Stock - How to Smooth It Out Without Causing Other Issues

[sign216]

How can I sand or steel wool irregularities on an in-process oil finish, without removing gloss or causing whisk marks, and setting back the semi-gloss finish?

I'm applying a tung oil + solvent mix on a new walnut stock (Birchwood Casey Genuine Oil). Sometimes I get small projections on the stock as it cures between coats. I've burnished them off in the past with coarse burlap or 0000 steel wool, but both knock back the finish I've built up. Like it's one step forward, one step back.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

Did you whisker the stock before first applying the oil?

 

[sign216]

No, I rub in the oil, applying a drop, and rubbing it in. No whisker.

 

[Blue68f100]

Avoid using the steel wool. It will embed into the finish causing the problem. I use a brown paper sack, no print. Wad it up and work it till it not still then lightly rub the stock. The paper will not leave anything behind the steel wool. I use this for satin finish, so it will knock off the gloss if you work it.

 

[sign216]

Avoid using the steel wool. It will embed into the finish causing the problem. I use a brown paper sack, no print. Wad it up and work it till it not still then lightly rub the stock. The paper will not leave anything behind the steel wool. I use this for satin finish, so it will knock off the gloss if you work it.

I was using bronze wool, but it isn't available in 0000 grade, and finest grade was coarser than the steel wool. Ouch. A brown paper sack? Interesting. I'll try it.

 

[Blue68f100]

I was using bronze wool, but it isn't available in 0000 grade, and finest grade was coarser than the steel wool. Ouch. A brown paper sack? Interesting. I'll try it.

I had a close friend that built custom furniture and cabinets that got me to using the brown paper sacks. It's great if your spraying a lacquer that flashes to soon leaving little whiskers.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

No, I rub in the oil, applying a drop, and rubbing it in. No whisker.

I think that may explain the problem. Whiskering is done with water, not oil, and a nonmarring abrasive such as a kitchen scouring pad.

 

[sign216]

I think that may explain the problem. Whiskering is done with water, not oil, and a nonmarring abrasive such as a kitchen scouring pad.

You misunderstand me. Whiskering was done early on, with water. Twice. I am beyond that stage, and into the oil finish now.

I had a close friend that built custom furniture and cabinets that got me to using the brown paper sacks. It's great if your spraying a lacquer that flashes to soon leaving little whiskers.

I'm not doing lacquer, but am always open to a new idea. If can't hurt, right?

 

[Twocanary]

Not a seasoned stock finisher (pun intended, heh) so hesitant to give advice so... Have you boned as part of the burnishing process? What boning does for me is compress (harden) the wood and smooth out imperfections. Here's a pic of the stuff I use. Green one is what the wife gave me and I'll be using that on the next wood stock project; its concave/convex curves are interesting. Sharpie is just for scale.

 

[sign216]

Twocanary,
I've read several books on making gun stocks, and talked to one producer, but this is the first I've heard of the burnishing/boning technique. Is it mainly used for softwood, or hardwoods too? I'd like to learn more.

 

[Twocanary]

Only did "boning" on gun stocks which were walnut and one birch stock if I recall. I don't bone (yes, I'm well aware of the modern connotation) until the gun stock is well saturated with oil. Google and you tube would have detailed info. I think you're in a good place, far as where your project is.

Now have a question. Why tung oil? I know it has water resistant qualities but other than that have not tried it. I've used tru oil, linspeed, BLO and my own BLO mixes cut with Japan dryer and spar varnish.

 

[sign216]

Twocanary, let me give you the advice that you gave me: Google it.

 

[sign216]

Avoid using the steel wool. It will embed into the finish causing the problem. I use a brown paper sack, no print. Wad it up and work it till it not still then lightly rub the stock. The paper will not leave anything behind the steel wool. I use this for satin finish, so it will knock off the gloss if you work it.

Blue68,
The wadded brown paper isn't so good at removing the errant particles that attached themselves (which are the real issue), but at least they aren't knocking back the gloss at all. I'll continue w 0000 steel wool. It removes the attached particles. It also mattes the finish, but not as bad as bronze wool, which doesn't come in a 0000 grade.

Everything is a compromise, eh?

P.S. I hear you about the rust issues that steel wool may cause, but bronze wool doesn't come in super fine grades, so that's a non-starter. For these light touch up removal of particles on the finish, 0000 should be fine.

 

[Twocanary]

Twocanary, let me give you the advice that you gave me: Google it.

Just wanted your opinion on tung oil, is all, didn't mean to offend. My mentor and a friend who recently built a Ferguson use different methods. Probably your stocks will be according to your personal preferences, imho. BTW, I googled boning, boning tools and the process before my first post. Read that people mix tung oil and BLO somewhere also. I could be doing my stuff wrong/different/weird. Like I said, think you're in a good place; bone, burnish, some more finish between the burnish and done. Guns that will get used in the rain/wet would be done differently however; personal preference, I guess.