You're right, USFA makes a fantastic pistol. But let's face it, they're not making nearly as many of them as S&W and they cater to a somewhat niche' market. Given their product line they are flying well under the radar of the anti's and probably have very little of their profits being sifted off fighting for gun rights and fighting off lawsuits. IIRC they are also a non-union workforce.
AFAIK, the least expensive high lustre blue gun they sell has a list price north of $900. Most of their guns are in excess of $1100, stretching into the mid $2k's.
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I have to say this thread has utterly confused the hell out of me. I'm not trying to be argumentative but I know some will take it that way, I'm genuinely confused..
On one hand we have people saying that we're dumbing ourselves down by identifying our guns by dash numbers. While I agree with the sentiment that we should know our passions, when shopping for guns an informed buyer will want to know the dash so they know exactly what they are getting.
Most long running guns that have improvements along the way but don't change model numbers have some way of designating deesign changes, if not people add them to keep track. S&W adds them for us and people resent it
If I list a model 10 for sale I'm either leaving out important information people want to know, but with the dash unknowingly offending potential buyers who just feel it's a model 10.. or am I missing something?
For me, I feel the more info I pass to the buyer the better chance of them being happy with their purchase.
As for MIM, I don't care if the gun I want has them but I would certainly take non-mim if given a choice. MIM may be strong enough to do the job but I'm on the fence about them being as good or better than a part milled from a billet then hand tuned. I'd put a heck of a lot more weight on what the steel was composed of over how it was made into a part.
On locks, yeah they look like crap, yeah there's been a few reports of malfuntions but if you want the gun and can't get without the lock, or can't afford it without the lock (ahem: dash), you're pretty much stuck with it. Take your chances, grind the tab or remove it all together and go about yer business IMO. About the trial: last I heard there weren't any cases on record where removal of an ILS was used against someone who was justified in use of their firearm. A removed ILS would not be a factor in a justified self defense case anyway. To the same note, having an ILS does not replace responsible gun ownership. You still need to secure your firearm when it's not on your hip.
Side note: I'm always amazed at the heat S&W takes for their lock design when even it is superior to the engineering-afterthought that Taurus puts on their hammers, I've seen them jam when using them with the key..
Sorry for the rant
AFAIK, the least expensive high lustre blue gun they sell has a list price north of $900. Most of their guns are in excess of $1100, stretching into the mid $2k's.
_____________________
I have to say this thread has utterly confused the hell out of me. I'm not trying to be argumentative but I know some will take it that way, I'm genuinely confused..
On one hand we have people saying that we're dumbing ourselves down by identifying our guns by dash numbers. While I agree with the sentiment that we should know our passions, when shopping for guns an informed buyer will want to know the dash so they know exactly what they are getting.
Most long running guns that have improvements along the way but don't change model numbers have some way of designating deesign changes, if not people add them to keep track. S&W adds them for us and people resent it
If I list a model 10 for sale I'm either leaving out important information people want to know, but with the dash unknowingly offending potential buyers who just feel it's a model 10.. or am I missing something?
For me, I feel the more info I pass to the buyer the better chance of them being happy with their purchase.
As for MIM, I don't care if the gun I want has them but I would certainly take non-mim if given a choice. MIM may be strong enough to do the job but I'm on the fence about them being as good or better than a part milled from a billet then hand tuned. I'd put a heck of a lot more weight on what the steel was composed of over how it was made into a part.
On locks, yeah they look like crap, yeah there's been a few reports of malfuntions but if you want the gun and can't get without the lock, or can't afford it without the lock (ahem: dash), you're pretty much stuck with it. Take your chances, grind the tab or remove it all together and go about yer business IMO. About the trial: last I heard there weren't any cases on record where removal of an ILS was used against someone who was justified in use of their firearm. A removed ILS would not be a factor in a justified self defense case anyway. To the same note, having an ILS does not replace responsible gun ownership. You still need to secure your firearm when it's not on your hip.
Side note: I'm always amazed at the heat S&W takes for their lock design when even it is superior to the engineering-afterthought that Taurus puts on their hammers, I've seen them jam when using them with the key..
Sorry for the rant
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