Oil em up.....

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IMTHDUKE

IMTHDUKE

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In you humble but very accurate opinion:) what would you believe is the best gun oil? Dan Wesson recommends High-quality gun oil such as FP-10, Militec-1 or Dan Wesson Rail Lube. I don't know what that is. They do not recommend CLP. I have been using Weapon Shield that says it meets MILL-L-634600, whatever that is.
 
There is probably no wrong answer.

Weapon Shield is the "improved" FP10.

For clarity CLP is a category. Weapon Shield and FP10 are also CLP's. There are a lot of others that are also very good, Ballistol, SLIP 2000, Gunzilla, G96, Rand CLP, etc. When you said CLP, I assume you were talking about Break Free CLP which is a fine product also.
 
DW says that the Breakfree CLP has ingredients that will damage the finish on some of their guns. I believe it is the chemical solvent toluene.

You don't need solvents to clean a gun, and you especially don't need solvents to lube a gun. Use any oil and you'll be fine. Synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 is popular, but your gun would run fine on peanut oil. Just buy a bottle of something simple and popular.


Frog Lube has caused way too many unfixable problems to even consider.
 
I've used Break-Free CLP for years, but have been thinking about switching to ATF or motor oil. CLP seems to evaporate given enough time.
 
Mobil 1 works very nicely for me as a lubricant. It tends to stick around, and it does not smell bad like dinosaur oil does.

I still prefer regular mineral oil to wipe down the outer surfaces, it leaves a nicer-feeling film.
 
It's not "the best" but I use the tin can 3 in 1 oil still. Have since I was a kid. It's light enough not to be problematic when you hit the woods in single digit weather...don't want a light strike to happen when your lined up on the only rabbit you see that day...big thing in my opinion is to find an acceptable oil and just use the snot out of it (regularly, not as in pour it full). I have has situations come up where certain ingredients didn't react well when switching from x to y and it gums up or screws up your stock if you barely touch it.
 
RX-79G said:
DW says that the Breakfree CLP has ingredients that will damage the finish on some of their guns. I believe it is the chemical solvent toluene.



You don't need solvents to clean a gun, and you especially don't need solvents to lube a gun. Use any oil and you'll be fine. Synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 is popular, but your gun would run fine on peanut oil. Just buy a bottle of something simple and popular.





Frog Lube has caused way too many unfixable problems to even consider.
Click to expand...



Isn't "Toluene" a part of dynamite?!

(What does TNT mean?
TNT, trinitrotoluene(noun)
explosive consisting of a yellow crystalline compound that is a flammable toxic derivative of toluene.)
 
I know several folks who swear by Mobil 1 as a gun oil, however I would highly recommend that you use a grease on the frame and slide rails
 
It stays in place, while oil will run.

Besides lubrication, it also offers hydraulic protection for the rails...that is why Slide Glide is so popular among 1911 shooters
 
Grease on things that slide, oil on things that spin. Rig, ballistol, etc. Pick any of the previous options and call it good.
 
Bama Drifter said:
Grease on things that slide, oil on things that spin. Rig, ballistol, etc. Pick any of the previous options and call it good.
Click to expand...
Don't know where that came from, but in cars Wheel bearings spin and they use grease on them and pistons, valves etc "slide" up and down and they are lubed with oil.
 
I use what Dan Wesson tells me to use. But oils are used for different things, some for lubrication and some for preservation. Some great tests on the web that cover these subjects completely.
9 fingers
 
If you have tightly fitted rails, like on a custom 1911 or P210, grease isn't a bad idea. On most other guns it just attracts crud and allows the crud to work between the rails, reducing reliability.



You don't have to lube your gun the same for range use and carry. If you are shooting a lot, do use plenty of oil and grease if you want. They will make the firearm last longer, and it doesn't matter if you get a jam when you're shooting at paper.

For carry, use the minimum thin oil necessary. This will attract less junk in the gun and not soak into your clothes. Don't carry a gun that won't function without heavy lubrication - that's a range gun.
 
Kokapelli,
Don't rightly remember who told me or where I may have read it, but it has worked quite a while for me. :) It suggests that revolvers take oil, and automatics take grease. Of course it is a wee bit pedagogical. There are always exceptions to the rule!
 
kokapelli said:
Don't know where that came from, but in cars Wheel bearings spin and they use grease on them and pistons, valves etc "slide" up and down and they are lubed with oil.
Click to expand...
It is meant to apply to lubrication of guns.

I've heard it for a long time from at least the 50s
 
RX-79G wrote,
If you have tightly fitted rails, like on a custom 1911 or P210, grease isn't a bad idea.
Click to expand...
In general, the recommendation is the opposite. Use oil on tightly fitted guns, and a thicker product on "looser" fit firearms or on automatic rifles.

As a for instance, here is the recommendation for Wilson's Ultima Lube II formulations...

Ultima-Lube II is Available in Four Formulations:
Ultima-Lube II Lite Oil - Very low viscosity. Ideal for extreme cold weather use. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of minor caliber.

Ultima-Lube II Oil - Thin viscosity penetrates hard to get to areas. Ideal for cold weather use, 10° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of all types.

Ultima-Lube II Universal - All purpose lube for all types of firearms. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Service pistols/revolvers and broken-in custom handguns, Long guns of all action types, AR style rifles in the 20° to 50° F temperature range.

Ultima-Lube II Grease - Ideal for heavy wear areas. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Full and Semi-Auto rifles and carbines, Optimal in AR style rifles at temperatures above 50° F.
Click to expand...
 
One of the things we worry about way too much is lubrication. Guns are mature technology. There really isn't that much different about them now that was not true in 1950. I just don't believe that some NEW high tech product makes a bit of difference. People are buying the marketing not the product. Oil is pretty much oil. 3in1 worked on guns in 1930 and it still works now, because its still oil and guns are still guns.
 
JTQ said:
In general, the recommendation is the opposite. Use oil on tightly fitted guns, and a thicker product on "looser" fit firearms or on automatic rifles.

As a for instance, here is the recommendation for Wilson's Ultima Lube II formulations...
Click to expand...
It depends why you are lubing. If it is for function, like in a defense weapon, don't use grease, and don't use tightly fitted firearms.

If you are lubing to preserve the tight fit on custom high end guns, use the most tenacious lubricant, which is grease.
 
Just keep using Weapon Shield. It has worked for me for years. I Started with FP-10 on the recommendation of Kimber. The inventor of FP-10 told me that he came out with Weapon Shield after someone changed his formula for FP-10, and he didn't like the result. He sent me a sample of Weapon Shield, and I have been using it ever since. It stays where you put it, and provides excellent protection from corrosion and wear.
 
RX-79G wrote,
It depends why you are lubing. If it is for function, like in a defense weapon, don't use grease, and don't use tightly fitted firearms.
Click to expand...
Psst, don't tell the Les Baer guys.

If you are lubing to preserve the tight fit on custom high end guns, use the most tenacious lubricant, which is grease.
Click to expand...
Psst, don't tell the Les Baer guys, or Ed Brown guys, or Wilson Combat guys, or ...
 
JTQ said:
Psst, don't tell the Les Baer guys.


Psst, don't tell the Les Baer guys, or Ed Brown guys, or Wilson Combat guys, or ...
Click to expand...
I'm sure a company that believes they are selling one model that is simultaneously the best possible defense AND competition pistol may have a different opinion from mine.

A tightly fit firearm is susceptible to not working if dropped and the closely fit parts peened into each other. AND, lubrication becomes more critical when you have more bearing surface.
 
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