On-press vs off-press priming

[lightman]

I started priming on the press, first with a Herters press and later on with a Rockchucker. They both did a good job and I developed a good feel for it. I got into hand priming because of a career that was very demanding on my time and hand priming was a way for me to spend a little more time with the family vs being alone in my loading room. I just stayed with it.

I also do most of my case prep in the family room using various tools in a cordless drill over a plastic tub.

 

[tcoz]

Sorry the Safety Prime didn't work out for you.

I got the new one after seeing a youtube video by TreeTopFlier


I started with the round reservoir black Safety Prime, went to the triangular and now the newest triangular one. Honestly, with the exception of adding a washer to the base of the original round one, I've never had an issue with priming or anything else on the LCT. Glad I'm one of the lucky ones.

Dave

Dave, I did the same and also bought one of TreeTopFlier's powder measure stands for the LCT. Drops the charge directly through the powder through expander die and makes a super efficient system.

 

[frankmako]

I prime on the press with my dillon 550. I prime off the press for all my rifles loads with the old school lee hand primer and load on a single stage press.

 

[bassjam]

Another LCT owner here. I've always primed on the press with no issues. I like that I can feel the primer seating so that when I have S&B primers (for example) I know I need more pressure to seat deep enough.

Recently got the newest version of the Safety Prime. It's so smooth I had to keep checking that a primer was in the priming arm. No clicking.
Newest on the left.
View attachment 815586

Dave

Thanks for posting a picture, I bought my Lee Classic Turret about 3 years ago and was wondering if I had the new or old style, as mine spits primers all over the place if I don’t remember to add a few sprays of graphite lube to it every 100 primers. With the lube its works well enough, it’s just annoying to add another step when I load another box of primers. Looks like I have the “old” safety prime system though, I might have to give the new one a try.

 

[D Rock]

Dave, I did the same and also bought one of TreeTopFlier's powder measure stands for the LCT. Drops the charge directly through the powder through expander die and makes a super efficient system.

Looks pretty nice but I figured it was mostly for rifle and I'm just loading pistol for now.

Thanks for posting a picture, I bought my Lee Classic Turret about 3 years ago and was wondering if I had the new or old style, as mine spits primers all over the place if I don’t remember to add a few sprays of graphite lube to it every 100 primers. With the lube its works well enough, it’s just annoying to add another step when I load another box of primers. Looks like I have the “old” safety prime system though, I might have to give the new one a try.

labnoti in post #20 didn't seem to like it, so you might want to ask for other opinions. When I got mine if figured it was cheap enough to take a chance and I've been very happy with it. About 2K rounds so far.

Dave

 

[Rule3]

From progressive users I think it’s because of problems getting the priming system on the press to work as it should.

For the other presses I use a hand primer because I don’t have to handle each and every primer so it’s faster than one at a time press setups.

But if it is a Dillon press and problem would not be possible!

When I started reloading I used a Lee Hand Primer , thena RCBS Universal Hand primer. I found it to be a PITA. Been priming on a LCT and now a LnL AP and find it much better. The Lee Safety prime on the press is simple and works. On the LnL Ap if it screws up it is a PITA to dump the primers, fix it and start over.

There is much good to say about KISS as in the Lee system.

As to touchy feeling, I find that to be nonsense. I slam the primers in, they are seated or they are not.

 

[cfullgraf]

I started reloading on a single stage press in 1980. On day 2, I was using a hand primer for priming cases. I've been using a hand primer ever since.

I did not get into a progressive press until about 2009, not that I really needed the volume production, it was a logical extension of the reloading hobby.

Albeit I did not spend too much time trying to trouble shoot the priming system, after a couple of priming problems throughout seating 2000 plus primers on the progressive press I moved on to other processes. I am not comfortable with not being able to inspect the seated primer until the case is loaded and my modified loading process produces more ammunition than I could shoot anyway even with some perceived inefficiency in the use of a progressive press.

Old habits die hard and I really prefer to clean my cases after resizing and decapping. I process the cases shortly after shooting so small batches only take a few minutes to get to the tumbling stage. Cases are then stored for a future loading session. This affords me the opportunity to continue using the hand priming tool.

I've found that I can load the hand primer and prime 100 cases in the same or less time as filling one priming tube so this "double handling" of cases is not really a time loser.

In the past few years, age has been catching up with me and I cannot hand prime large batches of cases in one sitting anymore. So, I have added a bench primer tool to my bench for reloading sessions that will load more than 500 or so cartridges.

 

[gifbohane]

Bought the RCBS bench primer and it works for me.

Sometimes it has problems centering and seating the primer. If I go slow it works better.

 

[Patocazador]

I have a Lyman Orange Crusher that I bought many years ago. I started out priming on the press and it was so easy with no foul-ups that I never saw any reason to try anything else.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Unless I'm loading test loads, or I don't have the shell plate for my LNL-AP I prime all my cases on the LNL-AP. I adjusted the primer feed when I got it and just have never had a problem with it.
I think there is to much instant gratification these days and people expect everything to work perfect out of the box. I've learned to trust my progressive with priming mostly because I've never had a failure to fire from a primer since I bought it in 2012, I don't know how someone can ask more than that.
I have been reloading since 1972 and If I had to single stage all my primers now, I would quit reloading. If a single stage is all you have then I can see why you are doing it.
I started that way to. I prime what few single stage loads I make on top of the press where the ram is completely up. That way they are all the same about .005 below flush. I've never had an issue with that method since I started loading.

 

[k4swb]

I started on a Lee press and used the ram prime, briefly. Went to the Lee hand primer tool that was round. Used that for years. Got the Hornady LNL AP and the priming system on it was slightly less than satisfactory. Worked fine but didn't seat the primers deep enough to suit me so I studied it and figured out why and fixed it.

Now all I load on the LNL AP gets primed on the press, flawlessly.

Sometimes you just gotta study something and tweak it a little.

If you cannot get the priming on the LNL AP to work correctly, it MAY be broke but it is probably you aren't taking the time to see what it really needs.

I expect the same happens with a Dillon.

 

[RealGun]

For the Hornady LNL?

Yes, I highlighted the passage to which I was referring.

 

[RealGun]

I started on a Lee press and used the ram prime, briefly. Went to the Lee hand primer tool that was round. Used that for years. Got the Hornady LNL AP and the priming system on it was slightly less than satisfactory. Worked fine but didn't seat the primers deep enough to suit me so I studied it and figured out why and fixed it.

Now all I load on the LNL AP gets primed on the press, flawlessly.

Sometimes you just gotta study something and tweak it a little.

If you cannot get the priming on the LNL AP to work correctly, it MAY be broke but it is probably you aren't taking the time to see what it really needs.

I expect the same happens with a Dillon.

You have mentioned this more than once but I don't know of a reason why primers should be seated below flush, so I guess that's why none of my presses and priming mechanisms do it. I did glue a section of an Exacto blade to cover the dimple in the press base beneath the primer button. That firmed everything up nicely but that was a question of wear, not redesign.

 

[k4swb]

You have mentioned this more than once but I don't know of a reason why primers should be seated below flush, so I guess that's why none of my presses and priming mechanisms do it. I did glue a section of an Exacto blade to cover the dimple in the press base beneath the primer button. That firmed everything up nicely but that was a question of wear, not redesign.

If the primers aren't seated slightly below flush, they probably are not seated all the way.

Before the internet, people who reloaded correctly seated the primer and when doing so they slightly stressed the primer to make sure it was seated correctly.
By correctly I mean at least a little below flush and a smidgen more.
All my older manuals say to do this and all magazine reloading articles said this was the correct way.

Seating primers this way has made sure that I NEVER had a light strike and had to hit the primer again.

 

[ATLDave]

How far below flush seems to depend on the particular brass and primer combo, but, yeah, below flush. I get below flush seating on-press. If a press won't seat slightly below flush, then it needs to be adjusted, fixed, or otherwise tinkered with!

I use cut out sticky corners of post it note paper to control the depth on my 650. Stack up a couple of those on the base where the priming arm pushes down and it has the effect of making the priming arm longer. I get nice sub-flush primers that way.

 

[glc24]

Primers should most definitely be a little below flush. If just flush or slightly above flush is not good. Something is amiss! My take on how far below flush is what's been posted. Primer type and brass type usually determine how far! But below flush is a given. 550B press or by hand, I've always had proper below flush primers!

 

[ColtPythonElite]

If I a progressive that I could not prime on, I would either repair it or replace it.

 

[Whiterook808]

I prime on the press when using by Dillon 550. I prime with either my RCBS bench primer or a Lee Ergo prime when loading on my Rockchucker. I use the Ergo prime for small batches, or when I want to get outside for a while.

 

[kmw1954]

On press and mostly on a Lee Pro1000 loading 380, 9mm, 45acp. Both large and small primers.

 

[jmorris]

But if it is a Dillon press and problem would not be possible!

You can have a computer spell check what you are trying to say and there can still be problems...

 

[Dudedog]

I've found that I can load the hand primer and prime 100 cases in the same or less time as filling one priming tube so this "double handling" of cases is not really a time loser.

I agree.
Of course a primer tube filler would solve that problem.
I like to wet tumble my brass after depriming it.
I then hand prime while watching football etc on TV.
Did 3000 last Sunday.
I just like not having to worry about priming when I go to load.
I started hand priming with my old Lee 3 hole turret, still do it now for my LNL progressive.
I have primed on the LNL and it works ok, but I only have 5 stations and for pistol I like to go
1 Powder
2 RCCBS lockout die
3 tube type bullet feeder
4 Seat
5 Lee FCD
so I either need more stations or give up something from my list above to do it all in one pass.

The best way to prime is whatever way works best for you, all people are different so they have different thoughts on what they like best.

 

[GW Staar]

Using the ole RCBS Pro 2000 I've never had any problems priming on the press with commercial brass.....and I really like the depth setting that makes sure there's no "feel" needed. Just press until it stops. One little catch....all brass doesn't have the same primer pocket depth. Once I discovered the Trim Mate and the Pocket Uniformer that plows & cleans every pocket to the same depth....it becomes a breeze to set primers the same depth with a commensurate setting of the depth stop on a progressive.

Military brass of course requires swaging first and that step can cause problems in progressives even with a built-in swager.....because all brass doesn't swage exactly the same. (IMO brass hardness variation is the cause) Again....uniformer to the rescue.......swage then uniform and all problems go away as long as your progressive press has a good depth stop.

As for when I use my single station press (Rock Chucker II) I used hand primers.....I got old....it became less fun....bought the RCBS bench primer....sweet machine.
I only wish my APS version had the Universal shell holder.

 

[jmorris]

I agree with the peck method of filling tubes, not sure when the last time I did that.

The Dillon filler is nice because you hit the button and go back to loading but even the fairly cheap FA unit speeds things up a lot.



As for swaging nothing I have tried beats the 1050’s.

 

[RealGun]

If the primers aren't seated slightly below flush, they probably are not seated all the way.

Before the internet, people who reloaded correctly seated the primer and when doing so they slightly stressed the primer to make sure it was seated correctly.
By correctly I mean at least a little below flush and a smidgen more.
All my older manuals say to do this and all magazine reloading articles said this was the correct way.

Seating primers this way has made sure that I NEVER had a light strike and had to hit the primer again.

I have loaded 13 cartridges by the thousands in high and low pressure levels and have never had a primer issue. If any of the primers were below level, it was not noticeable just to look at the cartridges. I always check for high primers, so everything gets a cursory inspection but not measured.

 

[mgmorden]

When I used to load pistol rounds single stage, I'd often prime off press as I was doing a large volume of rounds and would break them into sessions (ie, resize a couple hundred cases one night, then prime them another, then charge and seat another night).

When I moved to a progressive for that I obviously use the on-press priming for speed.

I still typically load rifle rounds on a single stage though as I usually am only loading 20-30 at a time, and rather than bothering to get out the hand primer I just will use to little arm on my RockChucker to prime each one after I size it.

Besides - my Lee hand primer always had a habit of wearing a blister onto my finger. I eventually taped some padding onto the offending spot with some electrical tape but it still was uncomfortable after long sessions.