Tuner
I had a student in class running a Brand New SA 4" Light Weight Operator (Approx 500 rds through it). The gun started having failure to go into battery issues and the slide was very hard to activate by hand.
I pulled the piece down and found that the glued in ejector had lifted just very slightly and was contacting the top of the ejector groove in the slide. I tapped it back into place with the plastic head of a screw driver and the slide moves smoothly now.
I noticed that there are very tight clearances between the top of the ejector and the ejector groove. My question is, can I slightly (very slightly) taper the top edge of the ejector ( say with a slight bow) with a fine file to prevent the ejector from wedging/jambing tightly into the ejector groove of the slide? or is this a bad idea.
All of my eight personal 1911's have staked and pinned ejectors so I haven't run into this problem before.
Who the hell decided glueing and ejector in was a good idea?????? puuuleeez!
Thanks Tuner,
D
I had a student in class running a Brand New SA 4" Light Weight Operator (Approx 500 rds through it). The gun started having failure to go into battery issues and the slide was very hard to activate by hand.
I pulled the piece down and found that the glued in ejector had lifted just very slightly and was contacting the top of the ejector groove in the slide. I tapped it back into place with the plastic head of a screw driver and the slide moves smoothly now.
I noticed that there are very tight clearances between the top of the ejector and the ejector groove. My question is, can I slightly (very slightly) taper the top edge of the ejector ( say with a slight bow) with a fine file to prevent the ejector from wedging/jambing tightly into the ejector groove of the slide? or is this a bad idea.
All of my eight personal 1911's have staked and pinned ejectors so I haven't run into this problem before.
Who the hell decided glueing and ejector in was a good idea?????? puuuleeez!
Thanks Tuner,
D