Pietta '51 Navy Upgrade?

[FSCJedi]

So I was examining my replacement Cabela's '51 navy the other day in better light and found some interesting new changes that seem to have been made to the gun.

First off, I noticed that the sighting notch on the hammer is not nearly as deep as the revolver I sent in to be replaced. Barely 1/16" deep. I'm thinking I might have to deepen this groove, but I want feedback from you all first (not to mention shooting it to see what range it might be sighted for).

Second, and the one I am most happy about, is it now seems that on the back of the cylinder in the space between each nipple, is a small protrusion that allows the hammer to slip over so the cylinder will not rotate onto the next cap, allowing the C&B to be carried at full capacity safely. Does anybody else's revolver have these?

Keep in mind, I bought my original '51 in august of last year and just got my replacement late last month, so these changes had to have been made recently, unless I'm just missing something...

 

[20cows]

You can enlargen the notch in the sight with a needle file, but go slow and careful. You can't put the metal back.

Yes, by resting the hammer on the "tit" between chambers the gun is drop-safe and can be safely carried w/ six loaded cylinders.

Be dilligent in checking it when handling it to be sure it's in that condition when not about to shoot it. If you cycle the hammer, you'll have to manually "reset" it each time.

 

[Jim K]

Well, all Colt revolvers (including the Colt repros) have those "tits", which are called "safety pins". (Yes, that is the correct name.) Abuse over the years has flattened most of them on original guns. But when other repros were made, the makers left them off either through ignorance or to save money. (Oddly, they left the notch in the hammer, even though they had eliminated the reason for it!)

The Remington has a notch for the same purpose, and the repro makers do put it in.

Jim

 

[mainmech48]

Personally, I don't trust those little pins and only load five chambers when I carry in a holster. They aren't very substantial and the hammer on many replicas often doesn't rest fully down against the cylinder to engage them properly.

While I have somewhat more confidence in the notches found on Remington replicas, I still limit it to five for holster carry.

The rear sight notch is gonna be pretty much a 'cut-and-try' proposition no matter what tool you use. FWIW, even a really good needle file can have some trouble cutting good case hardening, so it might be a good idea to have a couple on-hand.

A better option, IMO and experience, is a cutting disc mounted in a Dremel tool, preferably one with variable speed capability. A small, clamp-on bench vise, jaws suitably padded, lets you use both hands for better precision and control but isn't strictly necessary. Work in small increments, slowly and with care. As was pointed out, more metal can be easily removed, but it's a bitch to replace.

Now would be a real good time to restate the obvious: DO NOT do any metal cutting with any tool in proximity to any amount of BP or its substitutes!!! The average flask holds enough to make a real "attention-getting" KaBoom, and it only takes one spark to get it.

With a little patience and some thought it's not hard to get your C&B revolver shooting to where you're looking with your chosen load. It's also really gratifiying to be able to hit where you want without having to stop and remember how much to hold off to do it.