CSA 357
Member
IM PRETTY SURE THERE WAS A KIT TO MAKE #11 CAPS FOR BLACK POWDER GUNS, CAN REMEMBER WERE I SAW IT, ITS SAD THAT WE ARE EVEN THINKING LIKE THIS!
Primers - When will we make our own?
- Thread starter fourdollarbill
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I, too, would much prefer to buy them "factory made", but-----
As to dies to reform the cup and the anvil, I already accomplished that, no biggie. They work in my Rockchucker. Certainly kind of a pain in the keester, because those are small "cases" to resize, but I can recycle used primers into like new cups and anvils. The anvil reforming is even a greater pain, and indeed, may not be necessary. I haven't gotten that far yet (ascertaining if the anvil reforming is necessary) because I need a recipe for the primer mix. Now, the primer mix. Anyone know of a functional recipe? I recognize that it may not be as good as "store bought", but a recipe that will work? Certain level of danger, sure, but I'm willing to work with it--outside, small batches, common sense. It's kind of a combination project between "see if I can do it" and "be prepared if I have to do it". I'd sure like a recipe if any of you chemist types have one.
As to dies to reform the cup and the anvil, I already accomplished that, no biggie. They work in my Rockchucker. Certainly kind of a pain in the keester, because those are small "cases" to resize, but I can recycle used primers into like new cups and anvils. The anvil reforming is even a greater pain, and indeed, may not be necessary. I haven't gotten that far yet (ascertaining if the anvil reforming is necessary) because I need a recipe for the primer mix. Now, the primer mix. Anyone know of a functional recipe? I recognize that it may not be as good as "store bought", but a recipe that will work? Certain level of danger, sure, but I'm willing to work with it--outside, small batches, common sense. It's kind of a combination project between "see if I can do it" and "be prepared if I have to do it". I'd sure like a recipe if any of you chemist types have one.
Quoheleth
Member
When it is dry, primer compound is so unstable (for lack of a better word) that primers are only manufactured when the compound is wet and allowed to dry after being assembled.
No thanks. ..
Q
No thanks. ..
Q
tactikel
Member
Flint and Steel!! The current administration wants us to only have flintlocks, so we'll be good.
I can think of few things more dangerous than trying to remanufacturer primers
I can think of few things more dangerous than trying to remanufacturer primers
The kit to make #11 caps uses toy cap rolls for primer material.
I have been using plastic toy caps for my BP revolver, works OK, some brands put out a bigger flame than others. Had a hard time paying $6.00/100 for caps at the gunstore, paid $1.50/200 for toy caps.
In the past I had problems igniting Pyrodex with toy caps, Shockeys Gold lights off real good. The pyrodex looks like a ball powder while the Shockeys is more a flake which might light easier.
I think you could soak them in water to dissolve the primer material out and dry it out and put it into a primer case. (just thinking out loud, have not tried to see if it works)
I have been using plastic toy caps for my BP revolver, works OK, some brands put out a bigger flame than others. Had a hard time paying $6.00/100 for caps at the gunstore, paid $1.50/200 for toy caps.
In the past I had problems igniting Pyrodex with toy caps, Shockeys Gold lights off real good. The pyrodex looks like a ball powder while the Shockeys is more a flake which might light easier.
I think you could soak them in water to dissolve the primer material out and dry it out and put it into a primer case. (just thinking out loud, have not tried to see if it works)
zxcvbob
Member
Those plastic caps also seal the nipple better than a metal percussion cap. They are quite corrosive, but since BP is corrosive that's probably not a big deal.
Someone mentioned mercury fulminate. Just be aware that it ruins your brass. Also, mercury is getting very hard to find these days.
Some weed killers are made with sodium chlorate, which could be purified easily. It's hygroscopic, but if one were to use it for the oxidizer and shellac for the fuel, the shellac just might seal it against moisture. (I have no idea if NaClO3 + shellac would make an appropriate primary explosive mixture, and it would be dangerous to find out, I'm just thinking out-loud here)
Someone mentioned mercury fulminate. Just be aware that it ruins your brass. Also, mercury is getting very hard to find these days.
Some weed killers are made with sodium chlorate, which could be purified easily. It's hygroscopic, but if one were to use it for the oxidizer and shellac for the fuel, the shellac just might seal it against moisture. (I have no idea if NaClO3 + shellac would make an appropriate primary explosive mixture, and it would be dangerous to find out, I'm just thinking out-loud here)
SharpsDressedMan
member
The reason we buy primers instead of making them is because the hard and dangerous part has already been done, and they come in (reasonably) safe little units...........
mp43sniper
Member
Wow I had no idea why I bought them instead of making my own until now!
zxcvbob
Member
Look up "Armstrong's Mixture". (no one will share any recipes here because it's incredibly dangerous.)
Grump
Member
Google "frankford arsenal no. 34", I think.
The performance of USGI chlorate primers (traditional mere corrosive primers) was so good and so consistent, there was resistance to switching to lead styphanate mix for match ammo in the 1950s. IIRC, Remington was the first to switch.
Just remember that ammonium perchlorate is what blew up a certain factory in Henderson, NV in early May 1988. Rupture of a 8- or 10-inch or so natural gas pipeline in the adjacent railroad right of way led to some impressive flame jets and secondary explosions as the fuel met with new oxygen being released from the other barrels merely being heated by the fire...and a few more barrels probably blew along the way.
Shock-sensitive oxidizer plus glass powder for good friction plus fuel = great primers. Wipe any spilled wet compound on your shirt, though, and you've just made a "strike-anywhere" match once it dries.
I've seen it in action.
The performance of USGI chlorate primers (traditional mere corrosive primers) was so good and so consistent, there was resistance to switching to lead styphanate mix for match ammo in the 1950s. IIRC, Remington was the first to switch.
Just remember that ammonium perchlorate is what blew up a certain factory in Henderson, NV in early May 1988. Rupture of a 8- or 10-inch or so natural gas pipeline in the adjacent railroad right of way led to some impressive flame jets and secondary explosions as the fuel met with new oxygen being released from the other barrels merely being heated by the fire...and a few more barrels probably blew along the way.
Shock-sensitive oxidizer plus glass powder for good friction plus fuel = great primers. Wipe any spilled wet compound on your shirt, though, and you've just made a "strike-anywhere" match once it dries.
I've seen it in action.
joniscream
Member
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Primer manufacture
Pre-WW2 primers were made with KClO3. Modern primers are made with Lead styphnate - also known as Trinitrosesorcinate. It is extremely hazardous http://www.ojp.usdoj.gov/nij/training/firearms-training/module05/fir_m05_t07.htm
. Less that $5 million worth of primers are sold to private individuals in the US each year. If you want to stop people from making their own ammo you don't need a law. You need $5 million.
Pre-WW2 primers were made with KClO3. Modern primers are made with Lead styphnate - also known as Trinitrosesorcinate. It is extremely hazardous http://www.ojp.usdoj.gov/nij/training/firearms-training/module05/fir_m05_t07.htm
. Less that $5 million worth of primers are sold to private individuals in the US each year. If you want to stop people from making their own ammo you don't need a law. You need $5 million.
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