Problem with my 28-3?

[treebeard]

Okay, so I went to the range today with my recently acquired 28-3. I brought several .357 loads with me. I had some loads using Blue Dot, AA#5 and Titegroup. I used Sierra 158gr. JHC, Hornady 158gr. LSWC HP (THE BOMB FOR SURE!!!), and Hornady 158gr. HP XTP. All of my loads were accurate, but I found the Blue Dot loads to be more accurate with a very nice POW!! to them. Here is the issue: It seems that the gun is locking up on the 3rd round and then possibly the 6th round. I get to the 3rd round and the hammer just will not come back, and I can't even manually pull it back for SA?! If there are no rounds in the cylinder I can dry fire it repeatedly with no problems. My friend bought some factory .38Spl loads and the exact same thing happened to him. So.....I am taking it back on Monday and having it sent back to S&W to see what the problem is because I really like how this thing shoots. The thing that sucks is that when I was able to shoot it the accuracy was amazing and even my hottest load did not seem to bother the N-frame at all! Any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

 

[huntershooter]

I would check it with factory ammo before sending back to S&W. You didn't indicate what your powder charges are. I would suspect it may be an "ammo" issue.

 

[treebeard]

My friend bought some factory .38Spl loads and the exact same thing happened to him.

I forgot to mention that I also shot 12 rounds of Magtech 158gr. JSP and the same thing happened. I think it is weird that it is every 3rd round and then every 6th round. That indicates to me that it is not an ammo issue, but something else instead. My powder charges were identical to what I shoot in my 686 4" and 686 6".

 

[Will5A1]

See if there is any fouling or other debris under the extractor, clean it up with a tooth or bristle brush, this may resolve the problem.

Sometimes the extractor rod will start to come loose (unscrewing itself), make sure its tight.

Do you have any snap caps? When you loaded the revolver did the rounds just drop into the chambers or did you have to thumb them in with a little (or a lot) pressure?

Looking at the barrel/cyclinder gap is it particulary tight anywhere as you rotate the cyclinder?

If you haven't already review the sticky at the top of this forum and post back. Or, on second thought, better let me take that lemon off your hands, you've got what, $275 in it? Where do I send the check?

 

[treebeard]

The rounds I loaded and the factory loads dropped right in. I was using nickel for my loads, but the Magtech loads and my friends factory ammo was regular brass. I do have a bunch of snap caps so I put them in and dang she clicks perfectly. I checked my primers and compared them to some factory ammo and I can't see any difference. Like I said earlier, I have shot the same ammo through my 686's and not one hickup.

clean it up with a tooth or bristle brush

Did that.

the barrel/cyclinder gap is it particulary tight anywhere as you rotate the cyclinder

Can't see any problems there either.

I plan on going back to the range Monday to shoot off some Remington, Federal, and Independence ammo to see if I have the same problem.

 

[Jolly Rancher]

I would suggest that you check the amount of cylinder endshake. Endshake is the amount of front to rear movement of the cylinder when the revolver is in full lock-up. To check this out, 1) cock the piece over an empty chamber, 2) pull the trigger full to the rear while easing the hammer down with your thumb and 3) while maintaining the trigger full to the rear try to move the cylinder to the rear. If the revolver has no endshake the cylinder will not move at all, meaning you have a tight lock-up. If it moves a couple of thousands of an inch or less I would say the lock-up is OK, but if it moves much more than this then I would suggest you tighten the action up with one or more endshake spacer washers. These are available from shooter supply stores such as Midway USA. The washers take up the slack in the lock-up. No slack = no endshake. I've had this happen with more that one revolver and it is quite irritating. I would dry-fire the piece and all would seem well (no binding) and then take it to the range and it would start to bind on one or more chambers. Installed a couple of washers and the problem was solved. Hope this helps?

 

[treebeard]

Thanks for the advice. I checked the endshake against my 686 and 19-5 and they are almost identical. I have to go to my gun shop tomorrow anyway so I will deal with it then. On a lighter note, I am impressed with the accuracy of it. I shot some more of my own loads today and wow can that thing shoot.

 

[only1asterisk]

A small thing that is easy to overlook: N-frame .357's have short cylinders. Handloads that fit easily in other guns can lock up a model 28 if the bullets pull just a bit.

David

 

[treebeard]

Hmmmm.....something I did not realize. Perhaps I should try some more factory loads, but I had problems with those as well.

 

[only1asterisk]

I don't really think that OAL is your problem. If something is locking up the gun every 3 trigger pulls, I doubt it. But something to remember, nonetheless.

Does it lock up on the same chambers every time?

David

 

[treebeard]

No, it is random. What I noticed today though is if I fire it really fast it will only lock up once. It's pissing me off because I really like it and want to keep it.

 

[only1asterisk]

Then keep it! Whatever is wrong is likely very minor. Get it fixed and enjoy it. If you must sell it, sell it honestly with a full understanding of the problem(for about what you have in it) to somebody that want to fix it and use it.

David

 

[treebeard]

I think taking it back to my dealer and having him send it to S&W is the best idea. I want to keep it for sure.

 

[Starter52]

Be sure the ejector rod is tighten in all the way, and check every screw for tightness.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Since it didn't happen with snap caps I doubt it's a problem with the revolver itself. Is it possible the bullet is extending too far and locking up the cylinder? Sounds like that might be it because it is happening after 2 rounds are fired then the problem. The next time it happens remove that round and see if the bullet has extended.

 

[treebeard]

I thought about that, but since it does it with factory 357 and 38Spl ammo my guess would be something else is going on.

 

[hkenvy91]

ive got a 28-2 with a similar problem as far as 2 cylinders bind slightly with the forcing cone when it gets dirty from fouling. i believe its a bent crane . ive been lazy about getting it fixed plus i might try and get it fixed locally instead of sending it to s&w.im kinda paronoid about shipping them