i am very intent upon disassembling my bolt to the point where i can remove the firing pin, as i am interested in avoiding unintentional firing from my cosmoline gummed-up pin and channel. my problem is that i cannot get the retaining pin to come out. i thought it might be the cosmoline causing it to stick, but i've tapped on it hard enough, that i don't think that is the problem. does the firing pin need to be in a certain position before the retaining pin can be removed? is there something else i am overlooking?
question about yugo sks firing pin
- Thread starter carlrodd
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Zeke Menuar
Member
Tapped?
Get a really big hammer and beat the you-know-what out of it. It will eventually come out. I'm talking really hit the pin hard. They're stuck in there pretty good.
While were on the subject of firing pins. Replace your free-floating firing pin with a spring loaded firing pin.
http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm
Cheap insurance against slamfires. Did this mod to my SKS a long time ago well worth the money.
ZM
Get a really big hammer and beat the you-know-what out of it. It will eventually come out. I'm talking really hit the pin hard. They're stuck in there pretty good.
While were on the subject of firing pins. Replace your free-floating firing pin with a spring loaded firing pin.
http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm
Cheap insurance against slamfires. Did this mod to my SKS a long time ago well worth the money.
ZM
I agree with Zeke in that the term 'tap' shouldn't be used when it comes to removing the FP retaining pin in an SKS. Beat the hell out of it. You won't hurt it.
I've heard good and bad about spring-loaded FPs. I've never used one. I find keeping the bolt and FP clean works fine. The bad stories I heard are enough to keep me from trying one.
I've heard good and bad about spring-loaded FPs. I've never used one. I find keeping the bolt and FP clean works fine. The bad stories I heard are enough to keep me from trying one.
Exposure
Member
You'll need to support the bolt on a very solid surface. Preferably a vise with the jaws open just enough for the retaining pin to to slide through. Setting it on wood blocks will cause all the force of your hits to be transferred to the wood and it will never come out.
And as the others said, forget the tapping. That sucker needs a good smack! I actually bent a punch I hit it so hard getting the retaining pin out of one my SKS's.
Don't be afraid, it will come out, you just have to show it who is boss.
And as the others said, forget the tapping. That sucker needs a good smack! I actually bent a punch I hit it so hard getting the retaining pin out of one my SKS's.
Don't be afraid, it will come out, you just have to show it who is boss.
armoredman
Member
Ditto. I followed the advice on Surplusrifle.com, and set it over one of my reloading blocks, to "tap" the pin into a cartridge hole. Well, I need a new reloading block, and I ended up balancing that bolt between steps on the back porch, and smacking the dickens out of it with a hammer and brass punch!
Bruce333
Member
DOH!
Lay the bolt across the open jaws of the vise (not clamped in it), leave just enough space for the retaining pin to go through the open jaws. Then bang the dickens out of it!
On my 2 rifles, I've replaced both FPs with the Murray's pin/spring. One of the retaining pins came out real easy, the other required a few forceful hits with the hammer.
dracphelan
Member
He didn't. Com-Block countries had different standards for their soldiers than Western countries. If I remember correctly, their soldiers were only expected to do a very general cleaning of their weapons. Shoot, nobody below a certain level was even taught to read a map.
I did some polishing of the firing pin after getting the bolt disassembled, to minimize any rough spots and hopefully keep it rattling like it should. Also reduced the OD of the retaining pin somewhat so it was easier to replace and remove in the future. Now it takes a lot less to get it out.
Technosavant
Member
+1. I propped a couple pieces of wood in the jaws to keep the bolt assembly from moving around on me. Got a properly-sized punch and my 20 oz. anti-vibration hammer (love that thing), and wailed for all I was worth.
It wasn't too hard to get out, but it does need proper force application.
OpFlash
Member
I've had several SKSs - Yugo, Norinco, Romanian, and I've never had to disassemble the bolt. Run it in the oven at 400 degrees or even a hot water dishwasher and it should melt any cosmo in there. I've also soaked them in kerosene over night. In the morning they rattle like a snake. 
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