Re-Checkering Impressed Checkered Stock

[westtx28]

I have a Marlin 981T which is a great bolt action .22 but wasn't available with a wood stock. I purchased an unfinished Marlin walnut stock for a different model from Numrich and made all the necessary inletting modifications. I finished the stock with Tru Oil (my first experience with that) and it came out much better than I anticipated.

My problem now is the stock looks great but the impressed checkering looks cheap. I found this article on converting impressed checkering and thought I might give it a shot. Has anyone done this and does this sound like a good approach?

When I applied the Tru Oil I masked off the checkering so that area remains unfinished. I wanted to get some advice before I proceed.

Keep in mind that this is not a high dollar rifle and has become more of an amateur hour project for me.

 

[25cschaefer]

We had a guy in checkering class over the summer do it, it came out okay, but it is not a quick process. He said, for him, it was easier than checkering a fresh stock. The biggest problem would be that the wood is relatively soft, the softer the wood, the harder it is to checker. Every piece of grain structure will present a new challenge and it will be slow going. Your amateur hour may turn into amateur week.

 

[rcmodel]

And then the compressed wood re-checkered "diamonds" may all break off the first time you bump them on something.

Proceed at your own risk.

rc

 

[Jim K]

Or live with it. I have Remington 700's with the impressed checkering and it never bothered me a bit. Of course, maybe I am just not picky, but to me it is more important how a rifle shoots than whether the little diamonds go in or out.

Jim

 

[westtx28]

Thanks guys. I have several other rifles, Marlins and Remingtons, with impressed checkering and it doesn't bother me a bit either. Between the inletting modifications, sanding, and finishing I've spent hours and hours on this and I've really enjoyed that time. I just thought the checkering would be a fun extension to the project but I don't want to screw it up.

 

[rcmodel]

The dang thing looks terrific to me with what you already did to it!!

What you really need to do is call it done, and buy another gun for another project!

You do a few more like that one right there and you can hang up your shingle and go in business.

rc

 

[BADUNAME30]

I have done this many times westtx28.
The key is to first have quality cutters.
Make sure they are new and sharp.
And keep the cutter clean thru the entire process.
I mounted a soft used toothbrush to my cradle to keep my cutters clean with.Lightly brush the cutter back and forth over the lenght of the brissels.
The next key is to be very patiend and go SLOW with minimal pressure on the cutter.
Let the cutter do the work. Do not apply pressure like you would while working on a stock with harder wood.When the wood starts to 'whisker', your cutter is clogged and or dull.
It takes a while but you can indeed accomplish a cut look.
I've had many a satisfied customer.
When finished Cutting, finish area with Dembart checkering oil.
Give the area as many coats as it will 'drink'.
It will harden that area.
Marlin stocks can be hard or soft.It's a crap shoot on that aspect but either one can be re-cut done as i've told you.
BTW, nice 'oil' job.

 

[Stantdm]

I think it looks really good as is. You did a good job with the refinish. I would probably leave that one alone.