Reduced Power main springs

[DragonFire]

Has anyone had problems after installing a reduced power main spring in a Smith Revolver?

I was going to order a Wolfe PowerRib springs from Brownells, that comes with a reduced power mainspring and 3 rebound springs, but a friend said when he'd done it (with a different brand of springs) that the gun became very unreliable in DA mode.


The revolver will be a "game" gun and not for defense, so an occassional misfire might be tolerable, but it wouldn't be good even for games (IDPA etc.) if it's unreliable.

 

[JNewell]

I have had bad experiences in all major Colt platforms with these springs -- ignition was unrealiable with many types of ammo. I gave up and have never tried them in a S&W because of those experiences. Maybe they work better in a S&W...dunno, though I'm doubtful. Stay tuned for other reports...

 

[ChristopherG]

In the several S&W's into which I've put reduced power springs, I've had very unreliable ignition with anything other than Federal primers. If you reload, plug it in and enjoy, and just know you need to use Federals. If not, it would probably be more trouble than you want to fuss with.

 

[HSMITH]

If you handload and can control primer depth closely you can run reduced power springs in a gamer gun. You MUST use Federal or Winchester primers though, with Federal being the better choice.

If you buy your ammunition or could ever need this gun for defense leave the springs alone.

An action job to smooth it out is the RIGHT way to lighten the feel of the DA trigger, springs are a band-aid at best. A smooth full weight trigger will be easier to shoot and feel better than a stock gun with reduced power springs.

My game revolvers all have stock main springs and +2 pound trigger return springs. The extra power in the trigger return spring makes a noticeable difference in reset speed and my guns are smooth enough that it makes no difference what so ever in ease of shooting. My revolvers can ALL be used with any ammunition, primer, and in any situation that might crop up. I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

[Ultima-Ratio]

Mainsprings-

Greetings all, just a point of interest here......all Smith and Wesson Performance Center Revolvers come from the factory with the Power Rib.

 

[ted murphy]

Is it a reduced power Power Rib spring or a standard power one?

I have reduced springs on some guns. I use full power on the rest. The full power Wolff Power Rib has a nice feel to it fwiw. If you use reduced power springs you really want to use Federal Primers.

Ted

 

[Jim Watson]

It all depends. Don't it always?
I have one gun, my old sawn off blue M25-2 that demands a full strength mainspring for reliable ignition even of Federal primers. Another, the M38 pocket piece has to have a full strength (coil) spring for ignition of the CCI primers that are my worst case test for a carry gun.
My other Smiths all have reduced mainsprings and fire anything.

You just have to shoot the gun in the configuration you want to use.
Tough work, I know.

 

[bountyhunter]

Is it a reduced power Power Rib spring or a standard power one?

reduced power.

It's been my experience that the Wolf RP springs are 100% reliable as long as the strain screw is stock length and nobody else has screwed with the gun.

 

[ted murphy]

I have a wolff rp in a 625 that is 100% with factory ammo and all reloads federal primers. It had some trouble with reloads with WW primers but I didn't load them or shoot them (GF's dad has the gun now) so I don't know if it was the primer or the man seating them that was the problem.

Ted

 

[Bullet]

HSMITH said

If you handload and can control primer depth you can run reduced power springs in a gamer gun.

 

[Bullet]

HSMITH said

If you handload and can control primer depth you can run reduced power springs in a gamer gun.

Could you explain (primer depth) more? I just shot 150 rounds of 38's. Out of that 5 would not fire. These were fired out of a 686 with factory springs and were Federal primers. The primers were seated all the way in the pockets for sure. I've heard of primers not going off when not seated far enough in the pockets. I thought maybe (the ones that wouldn't fire) were seated to deep. Could this be possible? They barely had a mark on them from the firing pin. I seated these primers myself.

 

[HSMITH]

Bullet, primer depth needs to be held to flush with the case head to .004" under flush. More depth than that will start to crush the pellet and will lead to light strikes and inconsistent ignition or even misfires. Less than that will also appear to be light strikes since the firing pin will push the primer into the pocket instead of punching a nice dent in it. , but these will almost always fire normally on the second attempt.

 

[Navy joe]

I have a std power one in my 325, no problem.

I have the reduced power one in my 625, no problems. The 625 is also very slicked up. right now I have a lighter rebound spring and I don't have any reset speed issues. Pull is about 6.5# Games only.

Both are reliable, and the key to both I feel is an extended firing pin from Cylinder and slide.

 

[Nick96]

If you do a search you will find several threads on this subject. But the bottom line is - if it's a "fun gun" - go for it - but expect the occasional misfire & trigger reset problem. If it's a gun where maximum reliability is needed - stick with the factory weight springs - and go the polish & lube or dry fire route to smooth it out.