Reloading .380 acp?

[Dave R]

I got my feet wet in reloading rifle rounds. Now ready to try pistol. Want to start with .380. I can get cheap 9mm at Wal-Mart, but .380 is always twice the price of that. So more savings to be had. And I want to be able to plink with that P-3AT when it comes home...

Question--I checked two shops today and neither had bullets labeled for .380. They had 9mm Mak, and .32 acp, but no .380. Should I just be using 95gr 9mm bullets? (.355, I believe) Or is there a difference in diameter, like 9mmMak?

 

[Jim Watson]

The .380 is known elsewhere as the 9mm Browning, 9mm Kurtz, and 9mm Corto (German and Italian for "short"); it is a true .355" 9mm. The 95 grain roundnose is the standard bullet. You can get hollowpoints and RN from 85 to 100 grains. I would look for the one most similar to the bullet in the factory defense load to be used.

 

[saands]

Jim ... you forgot one moniker for the .380 ... 9x17 ... sometimes I think that the manufacturers just like to keep us on our toes!

Saands

 

[Dave R]

Thanks, guys! Follow-up question for bonus points...

I see 3-die sets and 4-die sets. The 4-die sets add a "factory crimp" die. Is this factory crimp die a

[ ] nice to have but can live without" or

[ ] You'll be sorry if you don't get it.

 

[saands]

If you are talking about the "Lee Factory Crimp Die" then all I can say is this:

I have LEE FCD's for EVERY caliber that I load where they make one ... can you make good ammo without one? Sure ... but they almost guarantee that your ammo will chamber without hesitation, so I can't think of a good reason not to have one. If you are talking about someone else's 4 die sets, then I am unqualified to answer.

saands

 

[Jim Watson]

Get the 4-die set.
Resize brass
Flare case mouth
Seat bullet
Taper crimp

The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp also sizes the finished round as it crimps. I consider this essential with cast bullets but not always necessary with jacketed. You do need a separate taper crimp die for autoloader calibers, with or without the Lee CFC setup.

By the way, Dave, which loading manual do you have that does not explain this stuff? It is hard to learn reloading one question at a time on the Net.

Saands, yup, I forgot that one. Too darn Frenchified anyhow.

 

[Steve in PA]

RCBS 3 die set for all my pistols. Taper crimp is all you need.

95gr FMJ is what I use to reload my PPK/S

 

[Dave R]

Jim, I have no book. Sounds like I need one.

 

[Cherokee]

Get a reloading manual, better yet get two and compare. I load the 380 and find it very easy to load for. I use WW231 for normal loads and Blue Dot for some limited use hot loads.

 

[Jim Watson]

Dave,

You need a first class loading manual. Word of mouth (or www) is not enough for safe and effective reloading. The Lyman is probably the best general reference. Might be good to have the book from whichever company's equipment you are using; All of the Speer manual's illustrations are with RCBS, and there are manuals from Lee and Hornady. Some have videos which are nice for running the presses, but have no load data.

Booklets of load data only are free from all the powder companies but there are no real instructions and not many guidelines besides safety warnings. The data is on the Net, too, but the manuals and booklets are better because you can have them right beside the loading press.

 

[saands]

While I like the Lee dies and single stage presses and some of their accessories, I would recommend that you get someone else's manual. Lee's manual has all of the procedural and safety instructions, but he mixes in a lot of stories of things that he has tried that I feel are quite unsafe and he doesn't make use of anything that resembles THR's: CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information. ... I think that a beginner would be better served by a manual that is less ambiguous where safety is concerned.

Just my $0.02,

Saands

 

[E357]

The Lee Manual is fine, and the loads listed for the .380 are straight from the powder companies data sheets. The Lyman manual would be a very good addition, as you should always have multiple sources of data.

Elliot

 

[Dave R]

Jim and others--thanks for the suggestion to get a couple of manuals. I just got the Speer manual. I'll pick up another next paycheck.

 

[Alan Smithiee]

I've been loading Berry's .380 FMJs for my FEG SMC .380 for over a year now and have been very happy with them.

(funky blue box too)

 

[lee n. field]

You need a first class loading manual. Word of mouth (or www) is not enough for safe and effective reloading. The Lyman is probably the best general reference.

The Lyman manual would be a very good addition, as you should always have multiple sources of data.

More than one manual, yes. I've been using the Lyman 47th edition, and picked up the 13th edition Speer manual for a comparison.

The Lyman 47th edition has a significantly different maximum load and overall length for the .380, 95 grain FMJ, vs the 13 edition Speer manual. To wit, Speer lists an OAL of .97 inches, Lyman lists .900 inches. (I thought they looked awful short.) Speer lists a max charge of 3.3 grains of Bullseye, vs. Lyman's 2.8 grains of Bullseye.

Comments on this anyone? What does Lyman's 48th say?

BTW, RCBS 3 die set. If I had it to buy again, I'd get the same thing in carbide.

 

[mete]

There are many different 380s ,blowback, delayed blowback, or locked breach . It was introduced 90 years ago so some caution is advisable. As far as length they must feed properly. The pressure and velocity is a little more difficult. Just don't try to make a magnum out of it. The two variations also illustrate the importance of looking at loads from numerous sources.

 

[Dave R]

lee n., interesting that there is that much variation between Speer and Lyman.

My guess is because Speer checked data for their bullet, only, while Lyman has checked several bullets?

Good example on the need to check multiple sources.

 

[lee n. field]

Lyman used a Speer 95 grain FMJ bullet.

So is there that much difference in maximum load bettween a Speer 95 grain TMJ (Speer manual) and a Speer 95 grain FMJ (Lyman manual)?

 

[Clark]

I use 158 gr .357" XTP bullets for .380.
.960" OAL for Berretta 1934
1.09" OAL for M1903

 

[Dave R]

Is that a typo, Clark? 158gr bullets in a .380acp? I would think that would give you serious pressure problems. As well as length probolems.

Heaviest commercial load I have ever seen in .380 is 102gr. Golden Sabre. Speer book mentions some old loads with 115 gr. bullet, but they deleted that from the book because of problems with length and functiuon,

 

[Clark]

CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

No typo.
I got an M1903 380 a few weeks ago, and it was once a 9 mm Browning, but it has been "bushed" to .380.
The magazine is long enough to feed 1.090" OAL.
The groove diameter is .360" and the throat will take .357" bullets without re throating [what I have to do for some of my 9mms to use this bullet].

The max load for 357 magnum 158 gr. JHP is 8 gr. of Power Pistol 1.575" 1305 fps, 33,800 psi .
I have been shooting 8.5 gr. Power Pistol in the .380.
It kicks like a mule.
It really hurts.
The 380 factory ammo seems like shooting 22 LR in contrast.

The reason I got the gun and did the overload is in preparation for the Kel-Tec P-3AT .380 that weighs 6 ounces.

I can hardly wait