Rem Oil Use.

Some well-meaning logistics person ended up purchasing large amounts of this stuff in afg during the late unpleasantness. We found it to be slightly better than nothing. I think rem-oil would be best utilized for things like squeaky door hinges, fishing reels that need a little TLC, and tools like pocket knives and needle nose pliers that are getting "sticky" and difficult to open or use.
As a rust barier on the exterior of firearms, I have had the best luck with whatever motor oil is on sale at auto zone. A quart of this stuff lasts years for me with numerous firearms as a fairly active shooter and hunter, and costs less than a can of rem oil. I apply a few DROPS of motor oil directly to a 1" wide paint brush and literally paint it on the external surfaces of the firearm I am maintaining, and I do the same with a small artists paint brush to apply to the interior of most other firearms. Higher round count-per-session semi autos like the AR are lubed internally with white lithium grease- a squeeze tube of lithium lasts me about a year. I do keep a spray can of Ballistol in my truck during hunting season - this is to quickly get something on the outside of my hunting rifles/shotguns to prevent rust after I am finished using it that day before I put the gun in the case, only as a temporary rust prevention until I have the opportunity to really clean that gun.
I really think most gun cleaning products are marketting hype that are overpriced and often not even that good at doing their job. The only cleaning product specifically for guns that I bother with is bore cleaning solvent- I prefer shooter's choice (which comes with a stinky odor) or Hoppes (which comes with an odor I don't mind too much), but my favorite is Mpro7, which has no odor.
 
I've used Hoppes, RemOil, Ballistol, CLP, Mobil 1 . . . all of them worked; any question about cleaning/oil/solvent/grease will get many answers.

I like Ballistol since it gets the job done and is "safer" - don't need to worry about getting it on wood stocks (works great as a wood conditioner) and it's nontoxic. When I'm cleaning a milsurp, hunting rifle, shotgun or handgun with stocks, I can use it on every part of the firearm without worry. Some have concern it may weaken the integrity of wood over time - if I had a pristine M1 Garand or family heirloom SxS, I may look into a more specialty product - but for the firearms I use and clean regularly, Ballistol has worked well for me.

Brand loyalty can be strong in the gun community, much like with any specialty hobby/interest/application. Been using Ballistol for a while, and it's what I've stayed with - Also, I've found it to have great application outside of firearms. It's proven to be a good item to have around the house for squeaky doors, faded/dry old furniture, tools . . . anywhere general lubrication is needed. I feel I don't have to worry as much if it gets on my skin, clothes, wood, etc. compared to many other oils.

It does have a very peculiar and unique smell. Not noxious, but fairly strong, licorice-y, and it can make you cough a bit, so be sure to have ventilation/open a window. Worth noting as some (also with consideration to wives/family members who may be around the area) don't like the odor. I don't mind it much. Not as nostalgic as Hoppes #9, but I've gotten used to it.

Plenty of people use RemOil and view it in a similar way as I do Ballistol. If it works for you, great . . . You may end up trying some other oils down the line, whether by recommendation or out of pure curiosity.
 
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Anyone use this and like it?
I'm a fan of it. I use it after a gun cleaning and also on my quarterly wipe down of my weapons to keep moisture and rust away.
I use it because I have it and once it's gone it's gone. It burns off really quick and sucks as a rust preventative, there is hardly any PTFE in it and other higher concentrated products that are cheaper like SuperLube are better imo. It's definitely better than nothing and sort of works, just most others use better formulas I guess because I get better results. Plus I heard a guy on the internet say it was no good, so there's that too....
 
What an interesting outcome. I've never used those product for rust prevention and may have to reconsider my choices as alternatives to what I use. I do use Corrosion X for long term storage and rust prevention but I do not use the one marketed for guns that comes in the red can. I use the one marketed for marine use for salt water and fresh and that can of Corrosion X-HD comes in a blue/greenish color. Interesting read, thanks for posting the article.
 
I keep a can of remoil around at the range. Doesn’t do anything exceptionally well but it’s relatively cheap and I like the thinner formula for general cleaning or hosing stuff out, wiping off fingerprints after handling/shooting guns, etc. It’s good for a spritz of oil to keep the ultimate cliploader running smooth as well (for my MKIII Ruger pistols).

Plus I can actually use it for wiping down a Remington 1100 once in a blue moon. 😄
 
I use it. Just found out about it last summer when I was reading the instruction manual for an 11-87 I purchased. The manual said to drop the trigger group out and spray it with Rem Oil. So I bought a can and did that. Now I use it to wipe down all of my firearms after I clean them. Great stuff. Wish I had found it 20 years ago.
 
I used to use Rem Oil until several years ago I was discussing gun oils with a gunsmith and he turned me onto Clenzoil. I found Clenzoil to not evaporate like Rem Oil does and I've noticed a big difference; in fact I even started using it around the house on door hinges and the stuff really works; so well I oiled a door three years ago and haven't had to re-oil it since.
 
Lots of good stuff out there.
For my part, I like (and use) Eezox, Kroil, Lucas, Gibbs, CorrosionX, BoeShield, MiliTech and several others.
For day-to-day cleaning and short-term protection on frequently-fired guns, I use Ed's Red.
I use the other products for longer-term protection (guns that spend a lot of time in the safe and are occasionally fired).
 
For oil I use whatever is handy mostly hoppes. For protectant from rust and such I have been using birchwood casey barricade for the last several years. Use the barricade wipes on all your metal and it adds a film that kinda cures on the gun. They even bring back a little shine on a worn blued shooter.
 
I prefer G96. But I keep some Remoil around for light cleanings. I change up what I clean with so I am not going through one kind of cleaner too quickly. I have G96, Remoil, CLP of both military and commercial vintage, Spartan solutions, and Hoppes Elite as options for cleaning. And thats just the stuff I remember.
 
I use rem oil. But, I have used practically every brand of gun oil on the market over my 60+ years of owning guns. And many brands of gun grease. That's including 3in1.
I've not found any "brand name" oil or grease that I could say was better or worse than the other.
I don't still own every gun I've ever owned. But, I still own most. Every type from single shot to semi-auto, long gun to handguns, 22 to 30-06, 410 to 12ga, + muzzleloaders. Guns I still own range from bought new 1974 to new in 2024. + some bought used as far back as early 1990s.
While I have replaced some parts in some of the used gun "at the time of purchase ", I never had any any part repaired or replaced or fail in any way except in the used guns at time of purchase.
And All work perfect today. There is nothing special about guns, A tool.
And, I have used WD40 on guns for 60+ " without a single spot of rust" years and still waiting for all that internet hog wash to show up. It needs to hurry. I'M GETTING OLD.
JUST ME SAYING.
 
Rem Oil has been around a long time. I've read that it's a mineral based oil with Teflon added. That description fits a lot of lubricants...

It is always good to have a light (thin) oil for all sorts of uses. I've noticed that Wilson Combat's "Ultima-Lube II, Lite Oil" lube is very light, so draw the conclusion that a light oil is suitable for something like a precision fit (tight) 1911. I don't think I'd use a low viscosity (light) oil for a gun that is going to sit in the safe for a while before use -- it might run off or evaporate off the gun.

Like people say, you can use almost any lube and that is better than letting a gun run dry. (Caveat: WD-40 is not a good lube).

If you go to the range to shoot hundreds of rounds on a fine day, there is no reason why you can't hit the slide rails and the barrel bushing with a little oil midway through the day.
 
I use rem oil. But, I have used practically every brand of gun oil on the market over my 60+ years of owning guns. And many brands of gun grease. That's including 3in1.
I've not found any "brand name" oil or grease that I could say was better or worse than the other.
I don't still own every gun I've ever owned. But, I still own most. Every type from single shot to semi-auto, long gun to handguns, 22 to 30-06, 410 to 12ga, + muzzleloaders. Guns I still own range from bought new 1974 to new in 2024. + some bought used as far back as early 1990s.
While I have replaced some parts in some of the used gun "at the time of purchase ", I never had any any part repaired or replaced or fail in any way except in the used guns at time of purchase.
And All work perfect today. There is nothing special about guns, A tool.
And, I have used WD40 on guns for 60+ " without a single spot of rust" years and still waiting for all that internet hog wash to show up. It needs to hurry. I'M GETTING OLD.
JUST ME SAYING.
Oil and smokeless powder can smell good or not. 3 in 1 is a smell from my childhood
 
Some oils gum up or shellack after a fair bit of storage.
Reportedly WD40 (not a gun oil) does too.
 
WD-40 for hinges and door locks does ok for a bit, but doesn't last. Tri-Flow for the same task (Locksmith clued me in), works better
and lasts much much longer.

Tri-Flow is good for getting off light rust. It's terrible at rust prevention. Excellent lubricant though.
 
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