remington 514 project

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PITBULL

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it was in a house fire somone sold them to my friend and he sold it to me.
the bolt was rusted stuck well i got that out with a propane torch and polisd it here's the befor and after pics.
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and here's the stock befor and after chiping off the burnt wood and sanding it.
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i tride to sand all the dark spots off, but they wont come off, it would take to much wood off. so do yall thank i can cover up the darker spots with a dark stain?
if so what color?
 
Though I am not sure, I would have the steel of the action tested for hardness by a qualified person. The heat treating process it underwent at the factory was most likely un-done by the house fire. It may have to be re heat treated before it is safe to fire. As for the stock, I would just leave the color as is and Tru-Oil it. The darker burned areas add a lot of character to the rifle and help prove it's story. Also, I personally thank you for restoring an older, quality bolt action .22. These guns are often forgotten about, but they are also often much higher quality than "new" production, popular rifles.
 
VERY nice work restoring what would appear to most to have been a destroyed and lost cause rifle.It probly doesnt mean a whole lot coming from a far-from-expert at anything gun related, but I'm pretty impressed.Also, I wouldn't have thought of it but Jackal makes a very good point about the integrity of the metal.I would certainly have it checked out by a pro to be safe, and even then I might consider getting one of those remote trigger actuators that some of the super-serious bechrest people use to test fire it a bit remotely to be uber-safe.That MAY be a bit paranoid, bit I'm REAL attached to my fingers and eyes, so....:)
 
thanks yall it was alot of work, but i new something was under all that black.
i allready shot it 2 times i put it in a tree and tied a strang to the trigger, and then i shot it holding it 5 times so i think its safe.
 
Pitbull, that's cool. I'd sure like to see a pic after it's finished.

WRT to the heat treatment, based on your last post I agree you're probably fine. To be on the safe side, keep an eye on the root of the bolt handle and the notch where it locks into the receiver, in case it develops any peening or setback.
 
Most .22s are pretty mild steel without much heat treatment to start with. Hard to tell if it got annealed. The rule of thumb I learned was that if the springs were still at least somewhat springy, that the structural strength was not much hurt. If the springs are annealed and collapsed, then the parts are likely soft.
 
jackal said something about puting tru oil on it, i have some questions about tru oil.

what will it look like on the stock?
whats the prosese of tru oiling it?
how many coats? do i put something on befor the tru oil?
can i get it at a hardware store? if not where at?
and how much will it cost to tru oil the hole stock?
 
Here are a couple pics of my Remington 510 Targetmaster that I re-blued, then refinished the stock with Tru-Oil. The Tru-Oil is a product made by Birchwood Casey and is available at most gun shops and most online retailers for about $6 per small bottle. It is simply a hand applied oil that seals, protects and finishes a wood stock. To achieve the shiny finish requires about 4-5 coats that dry in about 4 hours each. I can usually do 2 coats per day. I have used it about 20 times and it is the fastest, easiest way to finish wood. It also looks great. This was my first rifle and yup, I still have it 12 years later.
 

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u.s.sfc_ret do you have a pic of your 514?
whats year was your 514 made? mine was made in 1953.
 
i'm allmost done, got the metal striped and blued, and the tru oil on the stock, i love the way the tru oil turned out. here's the pic's
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now i got to get the bolt handel welded back on the bolt.
 
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