Remington Model 11?

[tex_n_cal]

One friend has acquired one - 12 ga, decent condition, two barrels, S/N 346XXX. I gather these are very similar to the Browning Auto-5?

Any particular problems or concerns to be aware of? I think his only intent is home defense.

Thanks!

 

[Dave McCracken]

Good HD shotguns are neither scarce nor all that expensive. He should treasure that classic.

Remington manufactured the 11 for over 40 years. Some parts interchange with the A-5. These are heck for tough, and many are on their 4th generation of owner and still absolutely reliable.

I had one, a family gun. Of uncertain age, I had a smith replace the friction rings and springs with A-5 parts. He called it the 10K round rebuild. Total cost was under $20 in the mid 80s.

I never had trouble with it other than it was stocked differently from 870s and I never shot it as well. Kinfolks have it now, and are quite pleased with it.

Buy him a Mossberg and get that 11. Cherish it....

 

[Gordon]

I agree with Dave and did the same things with Model 11's in 70's and 80s. Now I did same thing with couple old A-5 brownings , one magnum with steel shot wildfowl barrel and one oldie with short stock and 22" deer slug rifle sight barrel. I had some reliability issues when I cut a Mod 11 to 18" , but I had stiff springs in it, I think 21" or longer barrels work as they ought to though...

 

[tex_n_cal]

Thanks - anyone know of reference where I could determine the date of manufacture?

 

[HerbG]

Model 11's probably works at least as well as a lot of Johhny-come-lately gas operated autos. Just be sure the friction rings are set up for the load you're using.

 

[Tom C.]

Remington Model 11

I have an old Model 11 that I inherited. I sent it to a guy for restoring. Now it has an MMC rear sight, an AO front sight, removable choke tubes and shoots very nicely. I use it for IPSC shot and slugs, sporting clays, etc.
They were made from 1905 until 1948. The Remington service department can tell you what year it was made. Give them a call.

 

[stovepipe]

How do "set up" the friction rings for different loads on the model 11? There is a sticker inside the forstock, but is too worn to read...

How do you know if the friction rings need replacing?

Thanks!

Stove

 

[mnrivrat]

One area to look at before you get rock'n with that Model 11 is the buffer system on the inside rear of the reciever . They are often deteriorated or gone completely . This can be a major cause of a cracked bolt. Both these problems are difficult to see without dissasembly - the bolts crack typically on the left rear area near the locking lug.
The Model 11 has a steel fricton ring that sits in front of the recoil spring with its concave portion forward for standard and heavy loads. For light loans it is placed to the rear of the recoil spring with the concave portion facing rearward. Wear in this system is generaly on the brass fricton piece which always goes in front of the recoil spring. You can tell if it is getting worn down by looking at the gap of this split brass ring (it has a spring collar on top of the brass for holding tension ) to make sure it hasn't closed up when it is on the magazine tube. (there should be about 1/16 inch gap) If it closes completely you are loosing the braking effect . The cleanlyness of the magazine tube where this friction piece travels and the amount/type of lube used on the mag. tube will also effect function. A completely dry magazine tube for example may create too much friction causing a sluggish action & empties to not eject, while a slick tube may cause notible slamming of the action with heavy loads. Good Luck - the model 11 is a very good quality gun if properly maintained.

 

[stovepipe]

Thanks mnrivrat!

This is a hand me down, and I'm unfamiliar with how to disassemble the receiver... Any tips on how to inspect the buffer?

Here are a couple of pictures of the way my friction ring and split ring are currently set up. If I understand your description correctly, I'm set up for light loads.

I appreciate your help!

Stove

 

[stovepipe]

Brass ring:

 

[stovepipe]

Let me try posting a photo again...

 

[mnrivrat]

You are correct - The pictures show the steel friction ring next to the reciever and the brass friction piece in front of the recoil spring - that is the light load set-up. The buffer on the Model 11 is a fiber pad that is held to the back and inside the reciever by a blind rivot. You may be able to see it if you shine a strong light into the reciever and look through the bolt handle slot area. The pad is a bit hard to distiguish as it is grey and with some oil & dirt it will look a lot like the rest of the inside. It covers the entire area behind where the rear of the bolt travels . Your gun looks to be in very good condition based on the picture (very little bluing wear) so you have a good chance of an intact buffer.

 

[stovepipe]

Thanks mnrivrat!!

It's hard to see, but there doesn't appear to be a buffer. There is a rail that the bolt travels on that I think goes all the way to the rear of the receiver. But a probe with a dental pick makes me think it's all steel back there.

I have searched online for disassembly instructions, but no luck. I've e-mailed Remington, but no word... Any ideas how I can break in to the receiver for a better look?

Do you know if buffers are still available for the Model 11, or can the be made from common materials?

Thanks!

Stove

 

[mnrivrat]

Stovepipe -;

I tell you what - if you drop me an e-mail and give me your name and address I can send a hard copy of the tear down for the Model 11 to you via us mail. If you don't want your name and address out you can send me your e-mail address and I will explain the procedure and provide a couple pictures via e-mail . Either way we will get you through the teardown and re-assembly .

My e-mail address is : [email protected]

 

[Brian Dale]

Remington's web site has a nice "fan" article about the Model 11. It's at

http://www.remington.com/magazine/history/m11.htm

Table V, on page 5 of that article, puts serial no. 346XXX in 1928, if I'm reading it correctly. If the gun has its original barrel, you can doublecheck by reading the date code on the left-hand side of the barrel and entering that information at

http://armscollectors.com/sn/remdates.php

Good rule of thumb: always listen to Dave McCracken. Trade your friend a Mossy for it!

 

[Gewehr98]

I'm starting to wonder if all Model 11's have the buffer in the receiver...

Because my 4-digit serial Model 11 doesn't, nor is the blind rivet present. I bought a replacement fiber washer/buffer from a parts company, and there was no provision for mounting it in my gun, which is the earlier square firing pin variant. Hmm...

Edited: I just figured out why there's no recoil buffer in my Model 11. Per the serial number, it was made before 1911, and according to the above website, isn't technically described as a Model 11, just a Remington Autoloading Shotgun. Learn something new every day, as it were.

 

[Tom C.]

Remington Model 11 Manual

Don't have a Remington manual for the Model 11, but Browning has manuals on line for the Model Auto-5 as a downlowdable pdf file. It explains how to take it apart and set the drag rings.

http://www.browning.com/products/manuals/pdf/auto5_light_om_s.pdf

 

[stovepipe]

Hi Mnrivrat,

Thanks for your kind offer! I heard from Remington this morning and was told a replacement manual is on it's way. They are also sending a list of dealers who specialize in "old parts." So, I should be okay if I do end up needing a replacement buffer.

I had hoped to take my "11" on a dove hunt next Monday, but don't want to damage my weapon. If your offer is still open, a couple of photos and simple tear down explanation would be appreciated...

Stove

 

[Okiecruffler]

I passed one up once when I found out it wasn't a Browning. Worst part, the guy only wanted $125 for it.:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Why does young always go hand in hand with stupid?

 

[Dave McCracken]

John, been there, done worse. How about a First model Colt SA for $100? Didn't want it because it looked mighty worn.

Or the pre 64 Model 70 Featherweight 270 I bought for $75 and sold less than 48 hours later for $150, mighty pleased with my sharp dealing?

Young doesn't equal stupid, but sometimes they appear identical.

 

[Okiecruffler]

I guess we all have horror stories, my worst was the lrge ring Bolo Mauser that I could have had for $165, but the guy had to have cash and I only had 20 bucks. I would have had to drive all the way to the ATM around the corner, and it had some rust on it, and that leather holster was just in terrible shape.