This thread has been very helpful! I inherited my Uncle's Sprtsman 58 12 ga. back in the 1980s. I took it dove and quail hunting a few times but it jammed frequently, so I put it in the safe and forgot about it. I got it out recently and decided to get it up and running. I took it apart to clean it, and it was filthy....I mean really filthy. The barrel dates this one to Jan. 1958....I think my Uncle bought it new....I am not sure he ever cleaned it. The holes in the cap were pretty much sealed up with grime, and the piston and ring was all gunked up. The gas tube itself was pretty clean - I just cleaned it with a soft cloth. I noticed the bolt wouldn't stay open, and from this thread learned that the tab on the carrier group was broken off....a new carrier group is on order from Numrich. Also ordered a new receiver buffer. Mine has the dreaded crack in the receiver...but it is small enough (about 1/16") that I will keep a close eye on it. If it gets any bigger I will have it milled out. I am anxious to get this thing out and run a few rounds through it!
Remington model 58
- Thread starter patentmike
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trinity gunsmithing
Member
Any problems with feeding? My latch will stay open but will not feed. Could the lip be to long ?
HELP !!
Chris
HELP !!
Chris
Update - When I received the new carrier from Numrich, I opened the box and immediately noticed the part was used - OK, no problem - it is a 60 yr old shotgun, after all. Then I noticed the tab was broken off !!! Argh!!! So I called them and wound up returning it for exchange, explaining to them not to send me another broken one. They replaced it promptly, and a week or so later I received a good one with tab intact. This one was black instead of silver - no problem. When I installed it, the tab was actually a little too long (the silver release button on the bottom of the latch wouldn't depress - I couldn't load a shell), so I took some sandpaper and gently removed some of the tip of the tab....I assembled / disassembled /tested it a few times until I could finally push in the release button on the bottom and load a shell. I took it to the range last week and it ran like a sewing machine. Fired about 21 rds through it, and no jams or hiccups....and the bolt stayed open after the last shot. 
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TomADC
Member
I have a Winchester model 40 skeet gun I have no doubt why Winchester only had these a few years, the Remington 58 much better.
Here is a pic of the tab on the carrier assy that seems to break off frequently on the Remington Sportsman Model 58 (I borrowed this pic from a previous poster). You can see they had an engineering change and added the two vertical reinforcing ribs to strenthen the new one on the left. This tab holds the bolt open on the last shot....if the tab is broken, the gun will still fire fine, the bolt just won't stay open after the last shot (or when you open the bolt manually). The carrier assy is about $25-30 at Numrich, and just takes a few minutes to swap out.
These probably get broken off as people unfamiliar with the gun try to force the bolt closed by pushing on the bolt handle instead of pushing to release button on the bottom of the latch.
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These probably get broken off as people unfamiliar with the gun try to force the bolt closed by pushing on the bolt handle instead of pushing to release button on the bottom of the latch.
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ScattergunJunky
Member
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- Sep 13, 2012
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- 2
Remington Model 58 Grade Identification
I'm brand new to THR and I like what I see amongst the communication. I too, inherited a Remington 58 in 20ga with a 28" modified choke, matching 5 digit s/n barrel 97XXX followed by an actual X which I have learned is Remington code for 20ga. I have not been able to figure out which grade I have. The wood is nice walnut and the fore arm is beautifully skip-checkered and looks hand cut. The butt stock checkering is less elaborate than the fore arm but is bordered by the same broad border as the fore arm. It has a normal vent rib barrel with the code Large "A" followed by Small (Half Sized) B, F, 7 and all letters are upper case letters. Using the posted Remington date codes I interpret this to be B=January F=1959 and makes sense with a s/n just 3000 short of 100,000. What throws me is the A being twice as large a letter. But if the date code did start with that large A the date would be March 1955. Some one of you Remington 58 owners will have a clue as to which it is. Since the 58 was supposedly introduced in 1956 is it possible that it was produced in the first quarter of 1955 for a release date in 1956?
The logical thought that I have come up with is that the Large "A" stands for ADL grade produced in January 1959. But this 58 is strikingly beautiful and about 98% blue; even on the sharp edges of the receiver and trigger group housing. There is no gold inlay engraving and the very elaborate detailed engraving looks to be C&C machine cut instead of stamped like the 1100s' are. There is no engraving on any part other than the receiver. Bright parts are the charging handle, bolt, shell lifter, release button and the trigger. The grip cap has what looks like a Lab Retriever holding a quail. If there is a web page out there that identifies each grade of the Model 58, Well, I sure have missed it. Any help from you members would really be appreciated. I am knowledgeable in other firearms and hope to contribute. Thanks in advance,
I'm brand new to THR and I like what I see amongst the communication. I too, inherited a Remington 58 in 20ga with a 28" modified choke, matching 5 digit s/n barrel 97XXX followed by an actual X which I have learned is Remington code for 20ga. I have not been able to figure out which grade I have. The wood is nice walnut and the fore arm is beautifully skip-checkered and looks hand cut. The butt stock checkering is less elaborate than the fore arm but is bordered by the same broad border as the fore arm. It has a normal vent rib barrel with the code Large "A" followed by Small (Half Sized) B, F, 7 and all letters are upper case letters. Using the posted Remington date codes I interpret this to be B=January F=1959 and makes sense with a s/n just 3000 short of 100,000. What throws me is the A being twice as large a letter. But if the date code did start with that large A the date would be March 1955. Some one of you Remington 58 owners will have a clue as to which it is. Since the 58 was supposedly introduced in 1956 is it possible that it was produced in the first quarter of 1955 for a release date in 1956?
The logical thought that I have come up with is that the Large "A" stands for ADL grade produced in January 1959. But this 58 is strikingly beautiful and about 98% blue; even on the sharp edges of the receiver and trigger group housing. There is no gold inlay engraving and the very elaborate detailed engraving looks to be C&C machine cut instead of stamped like the 1100s' are. There is no engraving on any part other than the receiver. Bright parts are the charging handle, bolt, shell lifter, release button and the trigger. The grip cap has what looks like a Lab Retriever holding a quail. If there is a web page out there that identifies each grade of the Model 58, Well, I sure have missed it. Any help from you members would really be appreciated. I am knowledgeable in other firearms and hope to contribute. Thanks in advance,
I too am a forum newby but have my Dad's 58 and while it has sentimental value it is driving me crazy. Every third or fourth shot fails to eject. I have cleaned and cleaned. I replaced the O-ring in the forearm. My question is this, does the brand of shell make a difference to anyone. So far, I have tried rio's and Federals with the same results. Any help would be appreciated.
Virginian
Member
Fore end cap must be set to the correct setting for the shells, and it most be functioning correctly. It controls how much gas is bled off versus how much works the action.
If you have a 58 and shoot it you may as well get to know a good gunsmith that works on them and has a source for parts, like Wiesners (http://www.wisnersinc.com). Sooner or later something will break. The point where the action bars connect to the gas piston is known for this. If/when it happens, don't freak, it CAN be fixed, and better than the original set up. A lot of people actually preferred the feel of the 58 to the later 1100, but the 1100 buried it popularity and durability wise. And the 58 isn't the easiest thing to clean.
If you have a 58 and shoot it you may as well get to know a good gunsmith that works on them and has a source for parts, like Wiesners (http://www.wisnersinc.com). Sooner or later something will break. The point where the action bars connect to the gas piston is known for this. If/when it happens, don't freak, it CAN be fixed, and better than the original set up. A lot of people actually preferred the feel of the 58 to the later 1100, but the 1100 buried it popularity and durability wise. And the 58 isn't the easiest thing to clean.
End cap
After a few shots, it will have a partial ejection. Spent shell sticking out of the receiver. When I remove the end cap, the holes are plugged with crud. I am shooting regular loads, so I have the cap set on L, but I have tried it on H with the same results.
After a few shots, it will have a partial ejection. Spent shell sticking out of the receiver. When I remove the end cap, the holes are plugged with crud. I am shooting regular loads, so I have the cap set on L, but I have tried it on H with the same results.
Virginian
Member
If the 1100 hadn't arrived, I was going to get a 58. A friend and his father had two, and I shot with them a lot, and their guns would go at least 200 rounds between cleanings, and I never knew them to fail from accumulated grime. The Federals I have shot aren't that dirty. I wonder if someone opened up the gas ports on yours and you are getting too much gas and residue into the gas system.
jogar80
Member
Cool deal. Glad you got it working! I just bought one of these. Can't wait to go try it out!
I'm just curious though, what constitutes a light or heavy load?
jogar80
Member
Anyone?
Virginian
Member
To me, anything 1-1/4 ounces at 1250 FPS or above is a heavy load.
jogar80
Member
Thanks, that helps
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
That's an imperfect measure, though. Nothing says that a load in a high brass shell has to be heavy, or vice-versa. Often they are, but not always.
Better safe than sorry. So, if there's any doubt, use the "H" setting. Then, you can switch to "L" if the gun doesn't cycle. Also, be sure it not set between "H" and "L". And finally, be sure that there a nylon bumper installed in the receiver behind the bolt.
My 20ga S58 fractured one arm of the action bar, which in turn split open the checkered forend. Not certain of the cause, but the nylon button was missing. Fortunately parts were available and my all-time favorite shotgun is good as new. I also have the S58 in 12ga. Both are a joy to shoot.
My 20ga S58 fractured one arm of the action bar, which in turn split open the checkered forend. Not certain of the cause, but the nylon button was missing. Fortunately parts were available and my all-time favorite shotgun is good as new. I also have the S58 in 12ga. Both are a joy to shoot.
jogar80
Member
What happens if its set between H and L? Just curious since you mentioned not to.
jogar80
Member
got it, thanks!
BellancaV
Member
Suggestions
This old thread has helped me tremendously. Bolt won't stay open, jams with failure to eject with second round hanging up in the carrier. My old 58 12GA has seen some serious shadetree repairs prior to my owning it (free). Mag cap missing the dial, had a garden hose washer in it plugging all vents, consequently bolt buffer is gone. Carrier latch is broken as is the torsion spring that holds it forward (this is an early style, non-plunger). Mag cap and latch spring appear to be made of un-obtainium as of this date. Wisners & Numrich are out of Mag caps as are "auction" sites. Spring is no where to be found. Every issue is an easy fix if only I can find a parts source.
1: Anyone ever try an 1100 trigger group?
2: Gun will be for light load use only, anyone modified a damaged mag cap to restrict gas flow to the proper level?
Somewhere in this forum I read of a man that specialized in 58s....
This old thread has helped me tremendously. Bolt won't stay open, jams with failure to eject with second round hanging up in the carrier. My old 58 12GA has seen some serious shadetree repairs prior to my owning it (free). Mag cap missing the dial, had a garden hose washer in it plugging all vents, consequently bolt buffer is gone. Carrier latch is broken as is the torsion spring that holds it forward (this is an early style, non-plunger). Mag cap and latch spring appear to be made of un-obtainium as of this date. Wisners & Numrich are out of Mag caps as are "auction" sites. Spring is no where to be found. Every issue is an easy fix if only I can find a parts source.
1: Anyone ever try an 1100 trigger group?
2: Gun will be for light load use only, anyone modified a damaged mag cap to restrict gas flow to the proper level?
Somewhere in this forum I read of a man that specialized in 58s....
BellancaV
Member
Some questions answered
Contacted Mr Snoaps. He is ebay user bunns-1 btw. He is out of mag caps, but says 1100 cap will work IF you use light loads ONLY.
Model 1100 trigger group is a drop in. He also will rework your trigger & drill 870 barrels. My gun is getting an 1100 trigger group & mag cap, forend seals, receiver buffer.
Contacted Mr Snoaps. He is ebay user bunns-1 btw. He is out of mag caps, but says 1100 cap will work IF you use light loads ONLY.
Model 1100 trigger group is a drop in. He also will rework your trigger & drill 870 barrels. My gun is getting an 1100 trigger group & mag cap, forend seals, receiver buffer.
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