Remington SPS = poor quality control...

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Agreed on the accuracy part. My SPS while not the most accurate rifle in the universe was in my top 5 of rifles I have owned (savage MkII, tikka T3, savage 11, savage 110, Remington SPS in that order) . I personaly could care less if the barrel is not free floated as long as it keeps me shooting tiny little groups it really did not bother me. I really should have found some way to weatherproof that SPS insted of getting rid or it, I really liked the 26" barrel, the trigger and the recoil pad. Of course hind sight is always 20/20.
 
Free floating the barrel is but one way to skin the same cat. Some people bed the action, some the barrel, some both. As I understand it Remington has always felt that some measure of barrel support was important, any wooden stock from the factory includes the ubiquitous "hump" near the forend cap. I imagine the tabs serve much the same purpose, preventing the weight of the barrel from sagging and tuning harmonics to boot. How successful they have been may be answered by owners, all 7 million of them, by the amount of praise the 700 receives in regards to accuracy. While not universal, it seems one of the few consistent themes for the line-up even if other areas of Q.C. may have slipped.
 
I, personally, have owned defective firearms in the following product lines:

Colt...Yes!!! Colt!
Kimber "Custom Shop"
Remington
Sako
Weatherby
Winchester "Super" Grade
And a Hades of a host of others...

Show me a manufacturer who has achieved production perfection, and I'll buy one of the products for you. I think my money is safe in my wallet. I'm not sayin' you don't have the right to be urinated-off...you do.

Take it to them and express your sentiments. Create a thread here in transactions. Send the manufacturer an electronic copy, and a link to, the thread that you create here. Assure the manufacturer that folks iz a followin' 'at' thar' thread!!

Research threads of old. See how my manner has changed since I purchased 5 "Custom Shop" Kimber 1911s. I too believe in the principle-of-the-matter. Now, take the fight where it belongs.

Geno
 
A rifle with a wood stock and a sporter weight barrel or a light contour barrel is not badly served with some pressure bedding near the fore end of the stock. Given that many wood blanks that stocks are made from are not really all that stable and it makes sense given humidity and temperature variations causing the wood to shift, warp, or bend; in turn upsetting the rifle's zero. Pressure bedding makes sure the rifle is zeroed with some stock pressure on the barrel for consistency. Maybe not the ultimate in accuracy under perfect conditions, but probably a good compromise for those hunting with production rifles with stocks not made from thoroughly aged and kiln dried walnut blanks.
 
I have to update my original post in this thread. I had posted that my mount screws were off center. Well, I took my rifle to my gunsmith yesterday to have a new barrel cut to 22" and fitted. I also asked him to take a look at the mount holes. He just called me and told me that the mount holes were centered. It was the barrel that was out of whack.

That actually gave me a little relief, considering that I got the rifle for $550 and a new action from Brownell's would have cost me $500 anyway and at least I got a bottom metal and a back up stock by getting the whole rifle.
 
That sounds like my very first Weatherby Mark V, .270 Wea Mag in 1985. The barrel was out-of-round, and the barrel was screwed off-center to the bolt. It grouped about 10" at 100 yards with handloads. :scrutiny:

Weatherby made it right. :D It's a great company. I am pleased to hear that you have been made whole.

Geno
 
Geno, could you end this debate for us by weighing in on what's happening? The OP posted previously he had purchased some aftermarket Callahan parts (not from Tommy Boy). I'm thinking he bought a new cocking piece to decrease lock time. If he did indeed, and did the work himself (and I believe he is a novice) could this account for his stuck brass (bolt would not disengage) ?

I'll accept your verdict either way. I can't defend Remington on the barrel "divot" he found but I do think the rifle was otherwise serviceable as delivered.
 
I had an SPS Tactical .308 Win. After a few rounds, I could not close the bolt without considerable force. When I returned it to the gunsmith, they determined that the extractor was defective. They popped it out, and replaced it. The problem was solved.

You never know when someone is BSing, or telling the truth. The best we can do is accept folks at their face word, and see if they're tellin' the truth. Pictures, of the alleged defect, speak a 1000 words too, don't they? :D Perhaps the OP should have posted a picture of what was problematic. Just a thought.

Geno
 
I can't complain about Remingtons workmanship or fit. Every rifle I've owned has never had any issues at all. I do not like the triggers or stocks that come on their rifles but that has nothing to do with workmanship.

The triggers were all reworked by gunsmiths to a tolerable pull. I've had every one of my wooden stocked rifles free floated and bedded but that's it. You can kiss that hump near the fore end goodbye. My 700 VS in .25-06 shoots just about 1/2" groups. My Classic in .300 H&H with sporter barrel does about 3/4", could probably do better then that but the recoil is something else. Also free floated a Win 70 sporter in 7mm Rem Mag which shot about 3/4" groups. All the rifles above had wood stocks, all shot groups of about 1" new with POI changing as the rifle heated up.

My new SPS VS in .22-250 shoots 1.5" groups. I'll let all of you know what happens with the B&C stock and Timney trigger. But I'd bet money right now that I can cut group size by more then 50%. But this has nothing to do with workmanship.
 
So I stopped out at the range today and was schmoozing with my pal who is also my NRA training counselor (I take my instructor courses and, occasionally, team teach with him) and we were chuckling about an acquaintance who was bitchin' about a few of his rifles. I commented that, in 57 years of shooting, I had yet to own a gun that didn't shoot as well or better'n me...he laughed and noted that he had an old Ruger mini-14 that could do no better than 2-1/2 MOA and he was sure he could. I laughed and said, "I don't own a mini-14 with an ol' whippy barrel, so I still don't have a rifle that won't shoot as well as me"...and we both laughed and agreed.

I then proceeded to prove, with a variety of Caldwell equipment, that my M!A outshoots me.

Dammmmmmm.


LOL

FH
 
I own several Remington firearms. I recently bought a 700 BDL 30-06 from an online store. The gun came to me with a badly rusted bolt. To tell the truth, I didn't look any further than the rusted bolt and I returned it, thinking this would be an easy fix. The gun came back with a different, but still rusty bolt and when I looked further noticed some blemishes on the stock. I once again returned it asking for a new unrusted bolt and a new stock. The gun came back with the same bolt and a new stock which was even worse than the first stock - deep gouges in the wood and several more dings. I sent a letter to Remington to complain and was contacted by one of their personnel via telephone. He told me to send it back. Back went the gun. I got it back today. The bolt looks good but it is the same gouged stock (when I say gouged, I mean down to the raw wood). This is unacceptable. I compare it to buying a new car that may run well, but has scratches and dents in the paint. I think Remington has serious issues if they can't fix this problem and I have bought my last Remington
 
Rust was my issue too. It was a constant battle, shame because it was the only really accurate Remington I ever owned. I won't be buying a Remington untill they improve their quality control. None of my Savages, Marlins, Winchester or my Tikka have ever had such issues.
 
The rust issue puzzles me. I have owned rifles with barrels in the white. I have owned very old rifles with no bluing left on them and have never had a rust problem. The physics of rust or oxidation of steel are finite. Most if not all hard steels will rust at the same rate if exposed to identical conditions.
Most firearms purchased from smaller stores and dealers come from jobbers or middle men. Very large operations, ordering a hundred or more rifles can order direct from the manufacturer. When you buy a rifle from a smaller dealer, you don't know where the rifle was shipped from, how long it was in storage etc. You don't know if the rifle was cleaned and wiped prior to sale. In other words, you don't know a lot of things about the rifle.

I bought a new SPS Tactical in 308 a couple of weeks ago. I mounted a Nikon Monarch 5-20 on it and went to the range. I did my break in with inexpensive ammo, 40 rounds and then went through 40 rounds of quality ammo. During the breaking, I had some issues with a stiff bolt action. I also had a couple of feeding issues with the last couple of rounds. However, by the time I was done, I was shooting better than I have ever shot with any rifle. Mine came with the Hogue overmolded stock which is wonderful IMHO The trigger breaks cleanly with not creep at around 3#. It is not gritty at all.
Now consider, I cleaned the crap out of the rifle before I shot it and oiled the trigger assembly, (wet) as well.

I have owned Winchesters that were great and some that shot minute of barn. I have owned some beautiful Brownings that I wished would shoot as pretty as they looked but also owed a Browning in 375 H&H that would double as a varmint gun in the accuracy department.

If I bought a rifle that shot clover leafs at 100 yards, I would be a happy camper minor problems not withstanding.
 
Give me a break, China? No! There is way too much "I heard" on these forums with very little empirical evidence to back up the "I heard" comments.
 
All steel rusts the same? Give me a break. You never owned a Chevy Vega before have you? No I have owned rifles for many years in this climate with no issues what so ever including a very old remington speedmaster with almost no blueing left on it. My Remington 700 was cleaned and oiled (like all my rifles) and I was fighting rust before I ever got it to the range. Now mind you I live in south Alabama where our temps and humidity are a step above yours for sure, but I can assure you there was something wrong with the steel on that rifle.
 
All steel of the same alloy does rust the same. Most barrels are made of the same steel. They are either stainless or blued. If they are blued, they are pretty much blued the same and resist rust the same IF they are clean and are wearing a thin coat of oil which I am sure you must know you need in a climate like you describe. Rust is a product of the oxidation of iron. A light coat of oil on any metal prevents O2 from contacting the metal and in combination with H rusting.
This thread is the first I have heard of rusting problems with Remmingtons.
I am done.
 
My problem was not so much with the initial quality, which happens from time to time. My issue was the inability of Remington to fix the quality problems after three trips back to the factory
 
You are correct all steel OF THE SAME ALLOY will rust the same, shame Remington chose such a poor alloy. Like I said really a shame because it was a real shooter, and I liked the new recoil pad and X-mark trigger.
 
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