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I recently got the same set. The extra crimp die is labeled "TC" which I thought meant taper crimp, but it will definitely form a roll crimp if adjusted correctly. If I remember tonight or tomorrow, I'll post some pics of crimps I've done with it.
the taper crimp doesnt have a seater in it so if I want to roll crimp still have to use seater with roll crimp. I tried the one thats marked tc and it looks like a standard taper to me? and yes they got the extra money out of me.
Taper crimping into the cannelure. That's a good one. Reminds me of the old adage to never put anything in your ear except your elbow, but not nearly as helpful. The OP is a brand new reloader. Why yank him around?
Calling Hornady and discussing with them is the correct course of action.
I use a taper crimp for plated bullets, I check the COL of the last round in the cylinder for bullet jump. This gives me an idea of the load limits for plated bullets with the taper crimp.
I have cut the plating using a roll crimp so I like the taper crimp die option.
Just because you have a 454 casull doesn't mean you can't load it like a 45 LC.
When one begins to turn the case mouth into the cannelure, the crimp ceases to be a taper crimp and becomes a roll crimp.
A taper crimp die can be handy if you want to use cast or jacketed bullets that don't have a cannelure or definite crimp groove, particularly with relatively light loads using these bullets. You can do this with a roll crimp die (set for "no crimp") but it just doesn't work as well. Otherwise, the roll crimp is the ticket with heavy loads using bullets that do have a cannelure or definite crimp groove. The extra die is kind of nice considering the $70-$90 cost of the set. I'd still discuss the process with the folks at Hornady and let them guide you.
If you are loading for lever-action rifles -or- should I say tube-magazine type of firearm you MUST be able to roll crimp your finished cartridge.
Taper crimp most everything else can equate to less unneccessary working of the brass.
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