Ruger Single Six Hammer Spring Assembly

[Ported Marlin]

On a whim, I mostly disassembled by Ruger New Vaquero in 44 Magnum. Unfortunately, I didn't follow proper directions for removing the hammer spring, so instead of pinning it compressed, I removed it entirely. Now I can't get it back on. Hints?

Here's a page that shows proper disassembly and reassembly. I should have read it before playing, but I like to play. https://www.ktgunsmith.com/rugersadis.htm

The spring is a bitch to gt back on the pin that pushes on the hammer.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Steps 18 - 30 explain it just like I do it . . . pretty easy. After a couple of times it'll be simple.

Mike

 

[shootstraight57]

I changed the main spring on my Bisley for a Wolfe lighter compression and used the exact steps listed in 18 thru 30.

 

[chicharrones]

Yep, I’ve done it like shown in the link, too. But I used a very small open end wrench instead of pliers.

 

[Rule3]

When in doubt

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/ruger_vaquero_nm.pdf
As with other Rugers if you can not compress the spring enough to get it over the small hole (to put pin in) I use a kitchen fork to compress it,

 

[Bazoo]

I have a shallow hole in my bench top that I put the strut in, I put the seat over the spring and compressed it with my fingers. But if I couldn't do it with my fingers id use an adjustable wrench over the seat. Then I get the wife to poke a punch through the keeper hole.

I also have done it using the ram in my reloading press. Putting a shell holder in the ram and holding another upside down at the threads. I put the strut against the top shell holder and set the mainspring seat on the shell holder on the ram. It strattles the rim opening of the shell holder and allows you to get a punch in. Align it with your off hand and control the spring, go slow and it works pretty good. I do it this way when I want to do it by myself.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

I have not done this for a long time, but it works. First, select a small nail or brad that will fit into the hole. Place the spring onto the strut, keeping the brad handy. Take an ordinary kitchen fork and use it to press down on the spring. Line up the fork so the end of the strut will pass through a slot between the tines of the fork. Keep the fork lined up so the strut will pass through the slot near the slot's end, where the tines will be the strongest. It helps if you can secure the strut vertically in a vice to hold it in place. I have not done this in a very long time, but I seem to recall there is enough strut so you can hold it vertically in a vice. You will need to press down on the fork with a lot of force to compress the spring. You can press down on the fork with one hand and grab the brad with the other hand to shove it into the hole.

DO NOT PUT YOUR FACE OVER THE STRUT AND SPRING! KEEP YOUR FACE OVER TO THE SIDE. IF YOU SLIP AND THE SPRING ESCAPES IT CAN SERIOUSLY DAMAGE YOUR EYE.

 

[Ported Marlin]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I didn't notice steps 18-30 before. That will help. I bought a small vice, a screw and pin for the hole, a coupling nut, and a new pair of vice grips. Will post more photos when I attempt to reassemble the hammer strut/mainspring assembly.