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I have not shot a rifle/shotgun in several years so my few long guns just sit in the safe. I try to take each one out and give it a look-over and wipe-down once a year (usually during the Christmas-New Year timeframe) but I have surely missed a year here and there. Thank you for the reminder--that time is here again.
The safe gets opened maybe once a week (on average), either to take out/put back something for the next or the last range trip, or maybe to access some important papers.
I have been using Eezox for this annual wipe-down for the last six-seven years: I started using it after reading this: http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
Eezox is pricey and can be hard to find (I've never found it locally, so I buy it mail-order and buy enough to make it worth the shipping, etc.)
I also use a GoldenRod, bought when I bought the safe.
Knock on wood, not a bit of a problem. The EDC and frequent range handguns get cleaned with Ed's Red (homemade CLP--google it), which works fine and costs next to nothing.
Zip lock bags are a bad idea, unless you zip your gun up in the bag while you're in the Mojave desert. You still need dessicants in that bag, even if it's vacuumed out, and you still need a protectant over the metal.
Original Cosmoline is still great for long term storage, but Rust-Veto 342 is an industrial strength protectant:
You're highlighting a property of chlorine - it's highly reactive, and it corrodes steel, especially stainless steel.
There is an entrie category dedicated to the kind of corrosion of steel that comes from exposure to cholrine/chlorine compounds - its called CSCC - Chloride stress corrosion cracking .
And that's why using cleaners that have chlorine in them - like carbon tet, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, engine degreaser etc... can be bad for your firearm - especially if its stainless steel. There are carb and brake cleaners that say they are chlorine free. But unless it's printed on the can somewhere that its chlorine free - it's common for these cleaners to have Tetrachloroethylene or Trichloroethylene in them.
I don't know how much chlorinated esther Eezox has in it, but it does have some, and IMO it doesn't take very much of a chloride compound to start to cause CSCC, and that's why I don't use Eezox.
In addition to the approaches already mentioned use on of the vapor corrosion inhibitor (VCI) products like Bullfrog or Zerust. I picked up a couple of small Zerust capsules at Lowes and I've ordered both off the internet.
a good coat of ballistol before every deployment is what all of my firearms got. One pass, let it dry, and store it. Come back a year later and good as new.
I use Fluid Film-bought a case of it on ebay. Works wonderfully. I have an automotive shop and bare steel, under a roof, coated with Fluid Film will be good for YEARS in the humid jungle climate of Louisiana.
I have found that most every "gun" oil will eventually evaporate and CLP is one of the worst. I use Mobil 1 engine oil in my ARs for lube and WD40 to clean (not lube!) the bolt carrier group. The carbon just wipes away.
Break Free makes a "collectors oil" that is much heavier, thicker, and evaporation resistant. I've had guns coated in it for a couple of years now and they're still "wet" to the touch.
I've been using rig grease since I had rust in an AR barrel several years ago. Guy at the range told me that if you use oil in the bore and stand the gun on it's butt stock, the oil will eventually run down and you can get rust at the muzzle end. I thought he was just OCD until it happened to me.
Rig grease stays put in the bore. Never had a problem since using the Rig.
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