S&W 19-4 Revolver Not Clicking

[dubious]

When I pull the hammer back it would occasionally not click twice on one of the cylinders. I hear the first click, but not the second click. This only happens on one of the cylinders and only some of the time. Is this dangerous? Whats the best way to fix this for the least expense?

 

[rcmodel]

Well, it should click three times.
1. Once when the locking bolt is released and it hits the cylinder.
2. Once when it finishes turning and the bolt drops into the notch in the cylinder & locks.
3. And once more when the hammer reachs full cock.

When you don't hear number two, is the cylinder locked in place or not?

If not, then the bolt is not dropping into the notch in the cylinder.
It might have dried grease, dirt, or oil keeping it from moving freely.

rc

 

[dubious]

Thanks RC, your advice is much appreciated. The gun is actually on 10 day waiting period so I can't look at it right now. I'll post a followup when I get it in my hands in a few more days.

I suspect that the cylinder notch may be a little worn. Maybe cleaning / replacing the bolt would be an easier fix then getting a new cylinder?

Thanks!

 

[rcmodel]

I wouldn't worry about it just yet.

Maybe it won't be a noisy or distracting at home as it was in the gun-shop and you can hear it better.

Cleaning & lube sure wouldn't hurt on a gun that old.
But needing parts like cylinders & bolts replaced is very unlikely.

If it needs that much work, you probably shouldn't have bought it.

rc

 

[cyclopsshooter]

I would bet money that the hand is worn, failing to turn the cylinder far enough

 

[BBBBill]

Depending on wear, (mis)handling, and possibly factory issues (doubtful), the gun may need to be tweaked back to factory specs. Yoke needs to be checked for straightness as well as endshake, headspace, etc before replacing parts. Once everything is set to spec, you can determine whether you need a new hand or ratchet/ejector. From your description, might be as simple as swaging one ratchet pad to get it to time up if everything else is in spec. That takes someone with the tools and knowledge to get it done right.

 

[dubious]

Ok, here's my update, now that I actually have the gun in my possession. Its in excellent condition. Not a scratch on it, no flame cutting, no cone erosion. The previous owner claims nothing but 38 specials shot out of it. On one of the cylinders the cylinder lock fails to engage, thus there is no "second click". It's just barely off, if I just tap it gently or shake it, the lock engages (click). Also, the endshake seems quite acceptable, but the cylinder does not spin very freely. If I spin it it probably spins only 2-3 revolutions. I'd like to know how to fix that as well, or if it is related.

I've been reading and absorbing Sylvan Forge's sticky model 10 post and I want to buy a proper set of screwdrivers and Jerry Kuhnhausen's The S & W Revolver: A Shop Manual. Also I have detail stripped my 1911 a number of times and fixed a few ornery guns that have crossed my path.


I'm contemplating doing things gradually and in this order:


1. Opening the side plate and inspecting the innerworkings without touching anything. Spray with gun scrubber, let dry, then a gentle amount of CLP. Hopefully that will get the filth out.

2. If I haven't managed to fix it yet, I may come back and do a detail strip. Thoroughly scrub the parts. A light coat of CLP, and then reassemble with a new Hand Torsion Spring, Wolf Rebound Spring (maybe 14#), and a Wolf mainspring. This is strictly a hobby gun, so I'm ok with testing for light strikes.

3. Beyond that, I would probably need a gun smith to adjust / fit the hand or cylinder lock.

Does that sound sensible?

 

[rbernie]

Yes, it does.

 

[rcmodel]

Sounds like the plan, except for the new hand spring, (likely not needed) and the CLP (not slick enough).

I replied to your PM with more details on that.

rc

 

[dubious]

Thanks RC... I was referring to the "Hand Torsion Spring" which I believe is actually the spring under the cylinder lock.

Part # 29: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=595/schematicsdetail/K_Frame_19

As you advised, I will try using rem oil... tho i love the smell of CLP so much more!

I'll give it a thorough cleaning. Thanks!

 

[rcmodel]

I returned your PM with this:

Nope, part #29 is the hand spring, and has nothing to do with the locking bolt.
It pushes the hand out of the frame slot so it can rotate the cylinder.

The spring that snaps the bolt into place is part #9, Cylinder Stop Spring - SKU #:940-070-550.

But I doubt if it needs to be replaced either, once you clean the dried grease out of it & the hole in the locking bolt it sets in and re-oil it.

rc

 

[dubious]

I stand corrected, I'm still on my training wheels here. Thanks!