benEzra
Moderator Emeritus
The little leaf spring that takes up the slack in the trigger assembly when shooting single-action has lost temper. How do I replace this?
S&W 3rd-gen gurus - how do I replace the little leaf spring
- Thread starter benEzra
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I love the 3rd gen S&W's, might want to ask your question over here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/
If you mean what Smith calls the "Trigger Play Spring", I replaced my 1006's sometime around 1990. I bought a bunch of spare parts at that time which included a couple of these springs and brads. I think I replaced mine thinking a new spring would "tighten up" the trigger. In fact, it made no difference.
I don't remember exactly what I did on a step by step basis, but I do seem to remember the little brad that holds it in place is rather soft Aluminum. I either just yanked the spring off and then squeezed down the brad's "petals" with needle nose pliers to remove it or did that in reverse order.
Installing the new spring and brad was about as simple. Once in place, the soft brad was easy to peen. Best I recall, I did that with a brass punch and small brass hammer. It "squashed" out flat pretty easily. The replacement spring and brad have been there through several thousand rounds since and it hasn't loosened a bit.
I don't remember exactly what I did on a step by step basis, but I do seem to remember the little brad that holds it in place is rather soft Aluminum. I either just yanked the spring off and then squeezed down the brad's "petals" with needle nose pliers to remove it or did that in reverse order.
Installing the new spring and brad was about as simple. Once in place, the soft brad was easy to peen. Best I recall, I did that with a brass punch and small brass hammer. It "squashed" out flat pretty easily. The replacement spring and brad have been there through several thousand rounds since and it hasn't loosened a bit.
fastbolt
Member
Sent you a PM w/pics. Let me know if they help.
fastbolt
Member
BTW, while the trigger play spring can become bent, damaged or broken, the gun will run fine without one. It just serves to provide some extra tension against the top of the trigger, so a bit of slop is removed from the trigger when it's cocked.
The CHP removed them from their older 4006's some years ago, and they ordered their new 4006TSW's without them.
The original TPS was a somewhat stiffer design that had 2 unconnected prongs on top. The revised design is less firmly tensioned, and is of a different style/design, connected across the top.
There's a seldom seen bright shiny "stainless" version that was developed and made for the fed's 10mm's. This TPS doesn't even have a part number (last I heard), and it's apparently not well known even within the factory. (Vaguely waved hand, and murmuring about these not being the 'droids you're looking for ...
)
The CHP removed them from their older 4006's some years ago, and they ordered their new 4006TSW's without them.
The original TPS was a somewhat stiffer design that had 2 unconnected prongs on top. The revised design is less firmly tensioned, and is of a different style/design, connected across the top.
There's a seldom seen bright shiny "stainless" version that was developed and made for the fed's 10mm's. This TPS doesn't even have a part number (last I heard), and it's apparently not well known even within the factory. (Vaguely waved hand, and murmuring about these not being the 'droids you're looking for ...
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