I'm pretty competent at S&W numbered models, but I'm out of my element when there's no model number inside the crane. Can someone help me with a pre-number identification? Here's what I know: looks like a 6" barreled model 10 with a k-sized frame, fixed sights, 38 S&W (not spl.), lanyard ring, square butt, US property on left top strap, nickel finish that may not be original. It has a lot of Lend-Lease Victory model clues, but the long barrel is throwing me off and when I looked at it I didn't notice a V in the serial #. Any thoughts?
S&W hand ejector help
- Thread starter cgcollins
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Early production S&W British Service Revolver (aka, Model 11 later, aka "Victory" revolver). Most all UK versions were 5" - you sure you measured it correctly? Some odd early ones can be different lengths, but they are rare. And nickel was not an option the Crown paid extra for during the war; it's not an original finish if it is in fact a Lend-Lease gun. That's about as good a guess as you will get without some photos and a serial number. The ones made before V1 did not have a "V" in it - they had no prefix to the s/n. Would probably be in the high 800 or 900,000 range.
Those with a U.S. Property stamp on the topstrap would normally be expected to have a "V" in the serial number and a 5" barrel. As for the "V", it is usually located on the back part of the butt, with the lanyard ring in the middle. For this reason it's sometimes overlooked. The nickel finish was done after the war, and is not original. If the cylinder has not been rechambered into .38 Special you are fortunate. Measure the barrel length from the front cylinder face to the end of the muzzle. A 6" barrel is possible because S&W was using anything they had. When there is a war on some odd configurations happen. Also look for a matching serial number (without the "V") stamped on the bottom of the barrel where the ejector rod flat is. If there is no serial number it may be a replacement.
Upon further inspection you were correct. 5" barrel, V serial #, matching numbers on the barrel, cylinder, frame. The finish is certainly a later addition. Now the real question...is it actually worth buying? It's in decent shape, but I don't have clue what to offer.
Well it was most likely made between 1942 and late 1944. As you pointed out, the refinish job wiped out most of the collector's value. As a shooter it is not in much demand because the ammunition, while available, is sometimes hard to find and expensive. Of course the expense can be lowered by loading your own cartridges.
If it has been rechambered to .38 Special, as many were, its utility as a shooter is much reduced and I'd recommend you didn't buy it. If the chambers are unaltered and you are willing to buy what amounts to a plinker and range gun that uses oddball ammunition, by all means consider it. Given the circumstances I wouldn't go over $175.00, and I'd think hard about going that far. Never the less it is, and remains a high quality revolver.
If it has been rechambered to .38 Special, as many were, its utility as a shooter is much reduced and I'd recommend you didn't buy it. If the chambers are unaltered and you are willing to buy what amounts to a plinker and range gun that uses oddball ammunition, by all means consider it. Given the circumstances I wouldn't go over $175.00, and I'd think hard about going that far. Never the less it is, and remains a high quality revolver.
I agree with that - the "oddball" British .38 S&Ws just aren't as practical as US made .38 Specials. However, they are very well made guns. I have a 1942 US Victory that is probably the most inherently accurate gun I own.
I think many buyers don't discriminate between the US .38 Specials and the less practical British .38 S&Ws, and the British guns sell for too much. Old Fuff has given good advice about discounting it because of that reason.
I think many buyers don't discriminate between the US .38 Specials and the less practical British .38 S&Ws, and the British guns sell for too much. Old Fuff has given good advice about discounting it because of that reason.
The British version was called the .38-200 model, because the cartridge they used in their Enfield and Webley revolvers amounted to a .38 S&W cartridge with a 200 grain bullet. They are no powerhouse, even if handloaded, but they are easy to shoot and very accurate if they haven't been messed with.
What ya' have too do is look at both the good and bad points and then make up your mind. If it was a .38 Special I'd jump at it. As it is I would stop and think.
What ya' have too do is look at both the good and bad points and then make up your mind. If it was a .38 Special I'd jump at it. As it is I would stop and think.
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