Scope Base Screw Stripped

[d31tc]

Holy torqued, Batman! I was trying to take off the scope ring bases on a Savage Axis to replace them with a picatinny rail. First screw I bubba upped with an allen wrench. It was not moving, so I tried a little heat and tried a little more force (going against my rule of "If you have to force it - don't") Anyway, the allen wrench slipped to an angle not in line with the screw head, and the screw head stripped. A Google search said to try a torx bit that fits. That worked on the remaining 3 screws, probably because they weren't stripped already, but holy torqued, they were all REEAAALLYY tight - like the Hulk was the factory worker who installed them. It however did not work on the screw that was already stripped. That screw just stripped worse.

A number of other suggestions on Google were to Dremel a slot and use a screw driver, use a screw extractor, drill the head of the screw off and use a vise grip on the protruding post of the screw, drill the head off and use a vise grip to remove the remaining shank of the screw, and finally drill out the screw and rethread to a larger size.

Any advice or details on the next steps listed?

1. Dremel a slot and remove screw with a screw driver

2. Use a "Grabit Pro" or screw extractor (looking for advice on this one in particular)

3. Drill and pop head of screw off and use vise grip to remove remaining shank.

4. Drill and rethread, I'm not going to do this if it comes to it. I'd take it to a gunsmith at this point.

I would like to attempt the removal using the techniques listed, in the order listed. My though on this is each step is a little more damaging to the screw head, so doing a higher number step eliminates the possibility of a lower step.

 

[troy fairweather]

Find a torx bit bigger then the stripped hole and beat it into the screw, grind the bit flat if the bottom isn't.

 

[P Flados]

I have fixed similar issues on several occasions. My method is taking a spare allen wrench one size larger, filing the end of it down to be tapered, and then hammering the wrench into the socket. The head will yield enough to form fit to the wrench.

Your #3, drilling into the socket to remove the head while leaving enough screw sticking up to grab with locking pliers also sounds like it would work.

 

[243winxb]

1 or 3 in that order. When using the screw driver, hammer on it to vibrate it.

 

[d31tc]

Find a torx bit bigger then the stripped hole and beat it into the screw, grind the bit flat if the bottom isn't.

See, I should have posted here first. But that is one reason I posted, maybe for the next person, they’ll have the little tricks to make the other little tricks work the first time. I tried the torx, but I did not file it flat. My torx bit actually looks like a cork screw at the end now.

 

[troy fairweather]

See, I should have posted here first. But that is one reason I posted, maybe for the next person, they’ll have the little tricks to make the other little tricks work the first time. I tried the torx, but I did not file it flat. My torx bit actually looks like a cork screw at the end now.

Ya most times they break or twist, you can use a tight fitting bit to help transfer some heat better to the screw.

 

[d31tc]

1 or 3 in that order. When using the screw driver, hammer on it to vibrate it.

That’s a good idea. I should have done that with the attempt with the torx.

 

[243winxb]

so I tried a little heat

Heat is good. More so if some red Loctite was used. It takes 500 F degrees to get screws out, or barrels off.

The early Ithaca pump slug guns used red Loctite to set barrels.

 

[a5werkes]

I believe I have every imaginable tool and bit to remove gunsmith sized screws and employ all the usual tricks to remove the difficult ones in order to save special screws; however, sometimes you just have to drill / mill them out.

Make sure you tape-protect the surrounding scope rings before starting.
I am a big fan of the Grab-It brand extractors; they come in gunsmith sizing and easy to use
a with cordless drill which is kept in the Reverse mode for drilling / extraction. This is my first go-to Plan.

Occasionally you might need to use carbide drill bits followed on by special geometry extractors.

Sometimes a step-down sized chuck e.g. #0 Jacobs, is handy to get access to the fouled screw head in close quarters.

Secure the work in a protected stable situation so you are not trying to do a 3-hand operation by yourself.

Final advice, don't use any more hex heads.........move on to Torx-Plus fasteners!

These photos might help.

 

[Kp321]

For stripped Allens I normally use method 3, but only with a drill press or mill. Be sure to verify the screw size and use the proper drill bit to remove the head without damaging the mount. (#31 for 6-48 screws).
Don‘t use method 1, Dremel slot, before drilling. The chances of staying centered are lower if the head has been slotted.

 

[d31tc]

For stripped Allens I normally use method 3, but only with a drill press or mill. Be sure to verify the screw size and use the proper drill bit to remove the head without damaging the mount. (#31 for 6-48 screws).
Don‘t use method 1, Dremel slot, before drilling. The chances of staying centered are lower if the head has been slotted.

My hope was to progress from least destructive to most destructive, and not try something that would preclude another option, until there are no more options.

Will a screw extractor (option 2) preclude drilling the head off (option 3) if a screw extractor doesn’t work?

I’m not too concerned about the scope ring bases, so if a dremel slot doesn’t work and I drill the head off with my drill press and it wanders off center a tad bit, other than mucking up the scope ring base, is this something that would cause option 3 to fail? ETA - Option 1 is going to muck up the base because the screw is recessed in the base.

 

[d31tc]

Looking closer at the base and screw, I think Option 3 won’t leave enough remaining on the shank because of the tapered heads. If I remove the tapered screw head, it will only leave 0.028” of the shank protruding from the receiver, not enough to grab onto with a vise grip.

So, I think my question now is will Option 1 preclude Option 2? For option 2, is there a recommended screw extractor for the 6-48 screw shown?

 

[troy fairweather]

Like I said pound a torx bit into the stripped screw, you want one just big enough to engraved the star points into the stripped screw.

 

[Blue68f100]

^^^^^ this works good, also when used with a hammer screw driver, like used on motor cycles. So your driving the bid down while turning.

You may want to heat up the screw till it's hot enough to smoke any Loctite that may have been used. With the high strength that's near 500F. You can use a driver shaft to concentrate the heat.

 

[Mauser fan]

OP
Broken and stripped screws can and are often the bane of anyone who encounters one or many like some of us have either by design or professions. Extractors can vary as much in design as the professions they are used in and the application for the type of fastener to be removed. In your case the stripped out torx screw head that is tamper retarded. The duel edge extractor of the appropriate size would be the one I'd use with the receiver in a holding fixture so when you smack the extractor into position you will maintain equal wrenching power to the extractor on the two axis's during the removal attempt. Drilling it out should be a last resort.

 

[d31tc]

Like I said pound a torx bit into the stripped screw, you want one just big enough to engraved the star points into the stripped screw.

Will do. I had previously used a Torx and hit it with a hammer a few times and it stripped a little more. That's where I paused and was thinking I needed to move on to the next option and don't want to mess the next step up, leaving me with more difficult options. So, what I'm hearing is, I need to get a bigger hammer.

Blue68f100 - a hammer screwdriver like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839

 

[d31tc]

FYI, I have the feeling that I should insert the MEME from Caddyshack. "Well?! We're waiting!"

First time I've had this issue with a rifle, so I should count myself lucky. But really, it's lack of experience. I don't change out scope bases very often.

 

[Blue68f100]

Will do. I had previously used a Torx and hit it with a hammer a few times and it stripped a little more. That's where I paused and was thinking I needed to move on to the next option and don't want to mess the next step up, leaving me with more difficult options. So, what I'm hearing is, I need to get a bigger hammer.

Blue68f100 - a hammer screwdriver like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839

Yes. I think they do come in different sizes, not sure. Most have a 3/8" square drive where the adapter to 5/16" hex bit, so an adapter may be needed for smaller bits. Once you get one the trick is push down, turn CCW, then hit with a big hammer. There is a cam in the body that forces it to turn on impact. Driving it down your not likely to ride up and slip off. This was a must have tool for those of us that worked on motor cycles, where every thing was Phillips heads screws. The only way to get them out without messing up the heads.

Have you soaked the screw in Kroil lately? Any lube you can get to the threads will help.

Last option would be to setup in a end mill, use a left handed twist drill and drill it out. Normally if it gets to this the heat from the drill will walk the screw out. I normally start with 2 # sizes smaller than the required tap.

 

[troy fairweather]

Not a bad time to pickup a set of left-hand drill bits, the cheap set from harbor freight are actually pretty good. I had a savage crf action in 300rum that would shear off a screw or two every other range trip, one time it did 3 and half of the last screw that was a pain getting out. I would have made the hole 8-40 if I kept it, that thing kicked so bad with that wood stock even tho it was magnaported.

 

[eddiememphis]

Easy.

Use a wheel on a dremel to cut away the mount.

This will leave you the entire bolt to play with.

 

[d31tc]

Easy.

Use a wheel on a dremel to cut away the mount.

This will leave you the entire bolt to play with.

Had that thought as well. I think the odds of me mucking up the receiver are high.

 

[Blue68f100]

Easy.

Use a wheel on a dremel to cut away the mount.

This will leave you the entire bolt to play with.

That will leave you very little to grab on these small screws, maybe 2 threads showing if your lucky. With the base in place it's actually protecting the rest, just in case.

The HF Cobalt drill bits are actually pretty good. I've found a few that were dull and needed sharpening before use. But for $100 for a complete set fraction, letters and numbers it's a bargain.

 

[rdnktrkr]

For applying heat, clean a soldering gun tip good and touch it to the screw, most of the impact screwdrivers are 1/2in drive, look around for a 3/8in drive, I've never seen a 1/4in drive but I'm sure someone makes it. I would also try a Kroil soak for at least 12hrs then heat, drive in a modified torx bit and use a torque driver. Good luck and let us know what works

 

[film495]

depending on how the head broke. If you can get a punch to grab the top and whack it solid at say at least 30 degree angle, but more is better, in the direction to unthread the screw, sometimes this works, with the combination of heating and penetrating oil, and days of patience, just to take your time and not make it worse. often times, the head of the screw/bolt oxidizes and that is what is sticking, or years of tiny bits of dried up gun oil acting like glue, so the threaded part, sometimes actually comes out very easy comparatively, once the head that is kind of bonded on is gone. one way or antother, if you don't want to drill it, you gotta get the screw to turn out. if you can get it to turn it, no reason not to whack it a few times back and forth, just trying to get it to let go. depending how hard the metal is, you can make a little slot with a very small chizel or fine tipped screw driver or anything that is very small that could be considered a cutting edge. If there's no lip for the edge of a punch to grab, the screwdriver or chizel can work hitting it directly working as a punch, seen dozens of the most stuck bolts come out doing this, when an easy out failed, or other methods just were not doing it. and as always, when I do this, I start off easy, and then have to use enough force where I think I'm just on the edge of breaking something else, and then the screw lets go. It is usually kind of a surprise how easy they thread out once they let go - so to speak.

 

[Hookeye]

Flat heads suck.
They run a smaller wrench and exert a fair amount of force in clamping.
Read: easy to strip if Allen head type.
And thats if its a quality screw and new wrench.

Torx is better.

Had a stuck one on a Ruger #1 quarter rib recently.
Torx tapped into boogered Allen hole....... and it snapped off.
Great.
Had to carbide drill it.