Slide lubes Using a chainsaw lube?

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Q Tip and a dab of synthetic motor oil on wear spots, pins and contact points. hdbiker
 
Cost isn't an issue. Some obsolete fud gun company relabeling cooking oil is.

There's too many terrible purpose made gun oils out there, that sometimes, this deserves some attention and detail. So we mix our own. I mix my own because it works. -33 to 110 degrees. Water, sand, dust. Pistol, AR, shotgun.
 
I mostly use white lithium grease and Mobile 1. The little that is left in the bottles after an oil change. Great for storage and range use but use rem oil for hunting time. YMMV
 
I use Breakfree (for lube not cleaning) on everything as got a couple of gallons cheap. Drislide on AR innards and Mobil 1 grease on Garands. I've never greased slides on semiautos and my guns run fine.

You can use ear wax to grease a gun. Most guns will work on just about any lube.
 
Since it hasn't been noted, there is winter weight bar and chain oil that is more like a 10 weight oil I believe. It is much lighter, sloshes in the jug and is needed when temps are well below freezing when you're using a chainsaw. That's probably what I'd use if need be, but it seems like Mobil 1 engine oil, synthetic 2-stroke oil, and lithium grease are all popular, and that's what I use in addition to Ballistol.
 
I'm not a big believer that you need some wiz-bang fancy lube. If it's in the garage and slick, it'll probably work in a pinch.
That said, from my (very limited) testing, lithium grease caused stoppages in a couple of my guns--both .22s. If it's thinner than Breakfree CLP or thicker than motor oil, lube it up, make sure it doesn't run out, and give it some range time. Preferably in both summer and winter, if possible.
 
The engineers tell us there hasn't been anything new in oil in forever, just different mixes of this and that.
 
Honestly, there are 10,000 gun cleaning and lubricating products out there that are made for guns. Why do people insist on using transmission fluid, WD-40, motor oil, cooking oils, bearing grease and every other product imaginable to lube and clean their guns? Do the same people sometimes pour Wesson oil or Crisco into their cars engine? Do they sometimes make French fries in Kendall 10W40? I just don't get it. A little tube of lithium grease made for guns is like $4.99 and will last for literally years, or you could maybe save a dollar and screw up the finish on your $500 gun
 
Honestly, there are 10,000 gun cleaning and lubricating products out there that are made for guns. Why do people insist on using transmission fluid, WD-40, motor oil, cooking oils, bearing grease and every other product imaginable to lube and clean their guns? Do the same people sometimes pour Wesson oil or Crisco into their cars engine? Do they sometimes make French fries in Kendall 10W40? I just don't get it. A little tube of lithium grease made for guns is like $4.99 and will last for literally years, or you could maybe save a dollar and screw up the finish on your $500 gun

I don't understand why anyone uses WD40 for anything, it's a terrible lube and not a great penetrating oil either.

But I don't have a problem with anyone using any of the other stuff. Its cheap, already in your garage, and it probably works just as well. I've yet to find proof that using motor oil as gun lube did any sort of damage. Just about any lube probably works fine for any personal gun.
 
Golly gee whiz! I guess some of us grew up before most of the specialty oils were on the market.

These days I do like Ballistoil (and it has been around since the 1800's if you happened to be in the Imperial German Army) But the first specific gun grease I ever used was the black tube of black "Gun Slick" that came with Colt Autos.

Before that I used everything from Moms Singer Sewing Machine oil and the 3 in 1 in the hall closet to 30W dripped hot of the dipstick of my Ford when a gun got sluggish on the range, to actual Vasaline brand petroleum jelly and bearing grease from Grandgaggy's work bench by the pneumatic car lift at the station.

For a bit I even swore by #2 Farber pencils for a nice "dry film lubricant".

Oh and I have even used Wesson Cooking oil and Mom's Crisco when nothing else was available.

I also carried around a squeeze bottle when the Army first started using half gallon cans of Break Free for cleaning 105, 155, and 8 inch artillery tubes with. Troopies would toss the "empty" plastic container in the nearest low spot and soon a usable amount would settle out and could be harvested and placed in my little squeeze bottle. Lasted me for ages.

Make them slick and they go bang repeatedly.

-kBob
 
Guns lubrication needs vs other mechanical devices are pretty basic. They are not a combustion engine. They are not sawing threw anything. They have a few basic moving parts.

It is more about how and when you lube vs what you lube with IMHO.
 
6oz pump and 1oz bottle Rem oil $9.00 from Wallymart once a year or so , I did go over my budget a little this year $9.75 for CLP.
 
I don't understand why anyone uses WD40 for anything, it's a terrible lube and not a great penetrating oil either.
i use it on outside locks to remove the moisture to keep them from freezing in the winter; works great. And helps to prevent corrosion. But agree, it is a terrible lubricant.

Many moons ago, I used to spray my vehicle's distributor cap to remove moisture.
 
bar and chain oil is basically SAE 30 weight motor oil. Or at least it used to be.

Those plunger tubes of bar grease are basically a marine grease as well.
 

I'm convinced that gun oil and brass tumbling method/media are the two most divisive topics of our day. :)

This issue used to be more important, but a lot of today's carry handguns are polymer framed with nitrided (or whatever marketing term they can use to get you to think it's better) slides. How important is it really to protect against corrosion? It's not like you're leaving your guns outside. I'm sure there's some "schweddy" dudes out there carrying IWB but there are a ton of products that do about the same thing.

So, a couple of years ago, I actually found some discounted Lubriplate FMO-350 (the product Grant suggests) that was on sale because it was almost expired. No, it wasn't the AW stuff. I'm not going to eat it either, so why not at least try it, right?

I have to say it's pretty good as a L&P. It's not a Cleaner, but who gets everything in life? It's clear and more importantly odorless. It doesn't have a scent, like most petroleum based products. Have you ever smelled old-man cologne on someone? By "old man cologne," I mean Hoppe's #9. At least if they had a fanny pack it would contain the scent better - haha.

I'm in it for the long haul with FMO-350 because a gallon is probably a lifetime supply. I would recommend it if you could get it on sale. I don't think it's worth it at full retail. It's thicker than RemOil and thinner than maple syrup. My special applicator is a toothbrush.

To each their own on this one. Snake oil, special grease, whatever - go for it and try it........................................................................................but chainsaw oil is nasty IMHO.

BTW, I also dry tumble with crushed walnut and used dryer sheets and am completely content with it - haha.
 
I have and use Rem oil, Lucas gun oil, Hoppes gun oil. Have used Mobil 1 or Amsoil in the past. They all work and the small gun oil bottles are easy to store and handy to use on the cleaning bench.
There are gallons of chain saw bar oil out in the garage, that stuff goes in the saws.
Use what ever works for you and your guns. I myself will pay a little more and use lubes made for guns. Waste of money? Maybe. But that's what I'm comfortable with.
YMMV.
 
The best lubricant I've ever used around the farm is Fluid Film. I've used it on a few of my pistols and it seems to work as good as, or possibly better than, anything else I've tried.
 
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