SP101 timing/trigger question

[*Klutch*]

Guys, I just got a Ruger SP101 the other day and wanted to smooth the trigger a bit, so I started by replacing the mainspring originally a #14 with a #10 and also the trigger return spring original #10 now #8. I have not fired the gun yet but would or should what I have done affect my timing at all? The gun is a used one but I would like to do some polishing in the trigger assembly to get it smoother, any recommendations on products? I normally polish the feed ramps of my semi's with a dremel and turtle wax rubbing compound and then with turtle wax polishing compound and it comes out with a mirror finish. But I do know there are angles that need to be kept and a dremel is not the ideal tool to be using, I don't have any Arkansas stones except for the one I sharpen my knives with.I'm not trying to do a trigger job on the angles of the hammer and sear, just want to polish the innards of the trigger assembly.

 

[WNC Seabee]

If you're a reloader, make up some primer only test cases. No powder, no bullet, just brass and a primer. Run a couple cylinders of these through before you do any thing else. What you are checking is to make sure that your spring set up provides reliable ignition. I have a similar spring arrangement in my SP (forget exactly which weights, but reduced hammer and trigger...) and had to swap a couple times to find the right combination.

As far as polishing goes, head over to the Ruger forum and look up IOWEGAN (user name) and get his "IBOK" (Iowegan's Book of Knowledge). It is the best $15 you'll spend. It covers all of the trigger, action work etc. for SP/GP and other Ruger DA revolvers. Very detailed instructions on what and where to polish with great pictures.

 

[rcmodel]

If you want to fire primed cases, you will need to drill the flash holes out to 1/8" or primer set-back will prevent the cylinder from turning I betcha.

rc

 

[*Klutch*]

I do reload but I won't be firing primed cases. I would rather just go to the range and fire ammo. I'm more concerned if this will or as been known to set the timing off. If it's just a matter of testing it, I will most likely get to the range tomorrow. I have done the #10 mainspring before but never the trigger return and this is a new to me but used gun.

 

[WNC Seabee]

I'm more concerned if this will or as been known to set the timing off.

I went through just about every conceivable combination of springs when I got the Wolff spring pack. No combination had an effect on timing in any way.

 

[Drail]

It will not affect the timing but a lighter mainspring may not ignite certain brands of primers and a lighter trigger return will slow down trigger reset. You really want that trigger to reset as quickly as possible, especially on a Ruger. If the trigger is cycling slower than your trigger finger you will hang up the lockwork. Trust me on this. Ideally you should deburr and smooth (not necessarily "polish") the internals and then play with springs. A good DA revolver trigger job depends much more on eliminating friction than lightening spring weights.

 

[Waywatcher]

The mainspring and trigger return spring have no effect on timing. The springs will impact the:

Trigger pull--It will make the pull lighter. The only "good" attribute gained.
Hammer fall--It will make the hammer fall with less force. This means more likely to misfire (light strikes.)
Lock time--The hammer will fall slower. This means a longer time between trigger pull and bullet launch.
Trigger reset--The trigger will reset slower and be more prone to 'operator error.'

In case you couldn't tell, I'm not a fan of reduced springs. Carefully stoning & polishing the innards but keeping the factory springs is the best option. More trigger time will help you much more than a lighter pull. Lighter springs are not worth it if this gun is even a second line of defence. Match guns, sure.

If you start polishing innards, be very careful on the hammer dog--this is the 'leg' of the hammer that gets lifted up by the trigger cam surface. The IBOK is a good place to look at.

If you absolutely insist on lighter springs, go with the heaviest option, which I believe is 12 on a factory of 14. IBOK, written by Iowegan--a Ruger gunsmith, will echo this advice. The trigger return spring is best at factory weight for a firm reset and less chance of failure to reset. But again, if you insist, choose the heaviest option available.

Good luck!

 

[rcmodel]

Springs really have no bearing on timing.
Timing is mechanical in nature, and involves the hammer, trigger, hand, bolt, and cylinder ratchet being changed dimensionally.
Lighter springs have no effect on the dimensional release points of the lock-work.

Other then what Drail said about your trigger finger being able to outrun the gun if you go too light.

Was it me, I'd grease everything with Outers GunSlick Graphite grease and dry-fire it about a gazillion times.

By the time you get that done, your finger and grip strength will have improved so much, the trigger will feel just great!

PS: +1 to what Waywatcher said.
I was typing when he said what I was trying to say.

rc

 

[*Klutch*]

Thanks guys that's absolutely what I was looking for. I have the springs in the gun so I will test them out, I do have to say that I don't really notice that much of a difference in the trigger pull. The gun is a 93 model so it has been fired, but you are all making me think twice about the springs as I do plan to make this my primary carry. I think I'm going to put the original springs back and shoot it and bring the springs to the range with me. Thanks for everything.

 

[Waywatcher]

For a good cross section of ammo, fire some with CCI primers (Speer), some with Winchester or Remington, and some with Federal (American Eagle.)

I listed the primers in general order of hardness. In other words, if it fires 100% with CCI, it's good to go for the rest.

With lightened springs I would say 250 varied rounds through it at one range session to verify reliability, even when dirty.

With factory springs, I go 150 rounds and feel confident that gun will go bang.

 

[Waywatcher]

Oh one more thing for a fellow ruger owner:

Here's how to check the timing:

With the gun unloaded, slooooooooooooowly pull the trigger double action. The cylinder should lock in place before the hammer falls on all chambers. Must be checked on all chambers.

Next grab a small flashlight. Then, making especially sure it's unloaded, pull the trigger and hold it back. Look down the bore , centering your eye. Hold the flashlight near the back end of the cylinder where the firing pin is. You should be able to see the firing pin while looking down the bore and no dark crescent where the barrel ends. (Basically are verifying that the chamber is lined up with the bore.) Repeat on all chambers. Did I mention to make sure the gun is unloaded?

Ruger Revolvers are fun, enjoy!

 

[*Klutch*]

Waywatcher thank for the advice. I put the factory springs back in and I feel a slight change in the trigger but not significant, I use Speer ammo and CCI primers for reloading except for my Mauser 98k I use Remington but for no reason other than that is what was available at the time. I checked the bore alignment when I got it and it's spot on, but I will do the ammo test, I like that, it makes good sense to check reliability. For noe I will go factory as the springs are not real hard at all. Also is the gunner777 the same as IBOK book? I joined the Ruger forum but the book is sold out until spring, but I have the gunner777 for the GP100; doesn't really show that many pics though.

 

[Waywatcher]

Yep, the gunner777 is what I have used. It is for a GP100 so there are small differences, though. (Mainly Cylinder differences)