So strategy wasn't to start at max load, but have the loads potentially end up there, which sounds backwards, but in my mind isn't. Again, this follows a commonly referenced theme that I've encountered, which is that best accuracy (which is what I'm after) often comes about with a full, or near full case of powder.
It sounds backwards because it is backwards. The best accuracy in a bolt-action rifle typically comes when the case is squared against the bolt face and seated firmly in the extractor groove, the neck and shoulder are slightly compressed into the chamber, but the base is only finger-tight, the bullet's ogive is just off the lands, seated firmly at a proper depth to give the proper neck tension without intruding on the combustion chamber incorrectly, with a powder charge that sends the bullet down the rifling lands and grooves at an optimal velocity, without any melt of the jacket or blow-pass of the hot gases, causing the bullet to exit the barrel in a stable flight with a proper rotation. Now, if that sounds like a lot of general setting and assembly instructions, that's because it is. Every rifle is different. Every projectile is different. So is every case, powder and primer combination - all different. The best accuracy comes from starting in a very generic, stable, known good condition and then building each factor out until you get that "magic"* combination that just always works well for you in your rifle. That's why hard-core acuracy shooters often use neck-only sizing dies custom ground and reamed for their rifle's chamber dimensions.
Put in the time and hard work to get it right. I don't shoot for long-range accuracy anymore - and when I did decades ago it was not competitively - but when I did, some of my most accurate .303 Mk.VII loads were below the recommended starting load in at least one reference source; typically not the bullet maker's though. Start with the bullet maker's data, at the recommended start or just a tenth below, and work up to where you are getting consistent groups. Account for your brass, powder lots, primer and sizing die/method. DO NOT start at the powder maker's max. or near-max. data. Generic "XY grain bullets" aren't the most accurate, regardless of whose powder you're using.
There are some competitive long-range rifle shooters on this board. I would suggest asking specific questions and taking their advice. As annoyingly smug as some of them are, they're that way because they've specialized in one aspect of the shooting field and typically right in their opinions about that field.
* HINT: It's not really magic. Mostly hard work and trial-and-error, but some luck, too. I highly recommend
this thread.