stock refinishing

[publiuss]

I am about to refinish a couple of stocks using Dfariswheel's method, listed in this forum. I have a couple of questions about checkering, regardless of finish method.

I put tape over the checkering to try to avoid damage when sanding but some damage was inevitable. 1.- At what point during the refinishing should I clean up the checkering with the checkering tool. 2.- At what point during refinishing should the checkering have the finish applied. This is taking into account light sanding between coats. I assume you want a very light coat on the checkering, would it be a good idea to use a soft toothbrush to work it into the checkering so there won't be any excess filling up the checkering? Should the checkering only have one coat?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I don't want to mess it up after all this sanding.
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[dirtyjim]

i keep a small amount of whatever type of oil i'm finishing the stock with but diluted about 50% to clean out the checkering.
after i put on a few coats and the oil in the checkering starts to fill up i'll scrub it with the diluted oil.

i prefer to use dalys seafin teak oil dyed with alkanet root or redoil(blo dyed with alkanet root) the sealer depends on the oil used too. for teak oil i use dalys ship & shore dyed with alkanet root and for redoil i use a concoction of redoil,sparvarnish,venice turps & gum turps.
the teak oil is faster but the redoil is a more traditional finsh for high end rifles & shotguns.
both take over a month to do properly.
the problem with most finishes out there is everyone wants instant gratification and a properly done oil finish takes time.

H&H still uses redoil on their rifles & shotguns

 

[dfariswheel]

I clean the checkering first, before I do any sanding or apply any finish.
To clean, you can use a checkering tool to lightly go over it to cut out any grime, or you can use a solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone and a stiff toothbrush to scrub it out.
Use either a solvent proof brush or a brass "toothbrush" lightly.
Then tape up the checkering.

I wait until I have the last coat on the wood and it's removed with the steel wool.
Then I remove the tape and if needed work on the checkering to sharpen it up.
I apply a coat of the finish, thinned so it will soak in, give it about 10 minutes, then use several clean toothbrushes to brush out the excess.
Use paper towels lightly dampened with paint thinner to wipe off the excess that gets brushed out of the checkering onto the stock surface.

I use one coat and give it plenty of dry time, then use new burlap to buff the stock to the eggshell luster.

 

[788Ham]

I've refinished several stocks, between coats, I let the stock thoroughly dry, then lightly use 0000 steel wool to smooth the surface. I've used 4-5 coats, depending on how dark I want the finished stock, steel wool between, then burlap the tar out of the finished stock. In the s/w process, I burnish right up to the checkering, not touching it, then when using the burlap, I buff lightly over everything. YMMV

 

[788Ham]

I've refinished several stocks, between coats, I let the stock thoroughly dry, then lightly use 0000 steel wool to smooth the surface. I've used 4-5 coats, depending on how dark I want the finished stock, steel wool between, then burlap the tar out of the finished stock. In the s/w process, I burnish right up to the checkering, not touching it, then when using the burlap, I buff lightly over everything, usually 2-3 hours to smooth everything out. YMMV
Sorry about the double strike on the send.