SW 686p. 2 1/2" or 3"

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BBW

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I'm working on a plan for a revolver I'm going to get/build. I've figured it's going to be a 686p. I'll probably send it back to the performance center for the master trigger job. And I think I'll probably also have them machine the cylinder for moon clips.

I haven't decided yet between a 2 1/2" barrel or a 3". I don't want to go over 3" as I'd like this to be a concealable carry piece. I'd be curious to hear folks' thoughts about which is better. It seems like that extra 1/2" shouldn't make it that much harder to conceal. And maybe I'd get a bit more velocity out of it. And maybe that little extra bit of forward weight would help with muzzle flip? Then again the 2 1/2" barrel is smaller, and this is a gun that is pushing it a bit for conclealed carry as it is. Besides, I like the grips that the 2 1/2" comes with better.

Thanks,

Ben
 
I'm not saying that you can't do it, but a 686+ is a pretty hefty piece to be hump around all day especially if it's CC. OC on a OWB isn't that bad but it's going to be tough.
 
I too believe the 686 might be a bit large to lug all day. I have the 686 SSR and it's a beast. Beauty though for sure. :)
 
If the size and weight are not out of line for you, get the 3". It has a full length ejector rod and a better "feel" than the 2.5"

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I agree with David. 3" has the better ejector rod.

I carry a 4" L Frame 620 without problem.

Get a good gun belt and holster and you will be fine.
 
Thanks for the comments. I tend to be of the mindset that you should carry whatever gun you can actually shoot well, so I lean towards the bigger. And I have found that the trick to carrying them is to spend on the holster (Kramer, Milt Sparks, etc.). With a good holster and good belt I have a full-sized steel 1911 that I can forget I'm wearing.

Sounds like the consensus is for the 3", which is the direction I'm leaning in. Seems like a good compromise. I like snubs. But the 3" can't be that much harder to hide than the 2 1/2". And I'm sure they shoot just that much better.

Ben
 
I found the 2.5" 686 to be a bit heavy to carry routinely. Went back to the 19/66 2.5" K-frame.

If you are going to shoot it more, and carry infrequently, the L frame is the better choice. If it's to be carried all the time concealed, a K frame or similar, or even smaller, sized S&W or Ruger is more practical from my experience with both.

And I'm sure they shoot just that much better.

Nope, not really. For open carry and field use, a 4" 686 is one awesome package - I have no general dislike of the L frame. On a practical note of carry, the 2.5 vs 3" L frame will not gain you much noticeable muzzle speed or recoil benefits - both are full-lugged, so go for the more concealable one. The shorter ejector rod is a fact, but it works fine, and when it comes up as a point nobody finds fault with it. Another note is that holsters for a 2.5" L frame are not hard to find at all - a 3" will be more difficult, limit your choices, or require cutting down a 4" one.
 
In my view, the 3" is THE perfect fighting revolver barrel length... ejection is a bit easier, velocity is a touch better, cpncealing is a tad easier, pulling from holster is a touch quicker, and handling is a little nicer. My favorite fighting revolver is a 3" fixed sight L-frame... I have a couple of them... here's one....

SW_581_R3222.jpg

SW_581_LF3243.jpg

The other is a 681 with NON-ported 3" Performance Center barrel.

681_LF6073.jpg

Both of these are customs where the square butt was rounded and the barrels were either cut (581) or replaced (681). And these are, indeed, largish- heavish- guns to carry for extended periods of time. But they are dreams to shoot!!!
 
Nice pictures, DHart!

David E said:
get the 3". It has a full length ejector rod
That was the reason I went with the 3 incher. BC gap was out-of-spec and uneven; S&W fixed it for free and threw in a trigger job. I adjusted mainspring screw and put Mepro sights on. That was all it needed. I am lukewarm about full moonclips in a carry piece. They are kind of big, esp. 7-shot, and if you bend them, they will jam your cylinder.

The gun is a tuck driver, I shot matches with it. With full house 125 gr. magnums it cracked a block of bullet proof glass. Not an IWB piece but carries nicely in a FIST OWB holster. Great choice for a gun of it's size.

mepro686-1.jpg

Mike
 
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