I was astonished at the accuracy of the 36 and with a 1 7/8-inch barrel no less. I took it and a Charter Undercover to the range. At 10 yards I fired the Charter 5 times at my homemade 8 X 11 target. No shot appeared on the page. Next using the 36 I was hitting my little 1-inch bullseye and closely all around it. For the Charter I will say its much larger pattern was dropping under the target, meaning it was sighted for perhaps 5 yards. Incidentally, the 36 I traded for and had not been fired. I don't know its year but it was pre-lock and with the hammer integral firing pin as opposed to the the transfer bar.
SW Model 36
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Monac
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Isn't there a sticky post somewhere in the forums that would let you find the year of manufacture, given the serial number?
Also, it is a myth that snub-nose revolvers are inaccurate. What is true is that they are more difficult for people to shoot accurately, because of their light weight, small grips, small sights, etc. But their inherent mechanical accuracy, as you found out, is fine, and can be realized with care and practice (and maybe replacement grips).
Also, it is a myth that snub-nose revolvers are inaccurate. What is true is that they are more difficult for people to shoot accurately, because of their light weight, small grips, small sights, etc. But their inherent mechanical accuracy, as you found out, is fine, and can be realized with care and practice (and maybe replacement grips).
243winxb
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bannockburn
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The 36 is a quality little gun and so is my Bodyguard Airweight. Gave the 36 to one of my sons, but still have the 38.
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Twiki357
Member
The model 36 started life as the Chiefs Special and became the model 36 in 1958 and has been produced in some variation ever since. Assuming yours is a “no dash” it would be one of the earlier ones. If you post the serial number (replacing the last 2 or 3 digits with “Xs” if you wish) someone will be able to tell you pretty close to when it left the factory.
And to my knowledge, Smith & Wesson has never made a gun with a transfer bar.
And to my knowledge, Smith & Wesson has never made a gun with a transfer bar.
AZAndy
Member
36 is a classic. I cheated and got a 3" barrel. It shoots very well indeed. It's the same as yours, no lock, firing pin on hammer. It's from the 1990s.
bannockburn
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AZAndy
One of my favorite Model 36 configurations: 3" barrel and round butt. Add a Tyler T-Grip adapter and you're all set!
One of my favorite Model 36 configurations: 3" barrel and round butt. Add a Tyler T-Grip adapter and you're all set!
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I'm a fan of the Chief's Special/M36.
I agree the snub nose revolver gets a bad rap about inaccuracy. It's not the gun but the shooter. The short sight radius coupled with a DA trigger can be difficult to master. I have quite bunch of J frames and like them all.
I agree the snub nose revolver gets a bad rap about inaccuracy. It's not the gun but the shooter. The short sight radius coupled with a DA trigger can be difficult to master. I have quite bunch of J frames and like them all.
I used to take a 2" j frame and ding a metal IPSC tartget all day long at 100 yds with wadcutters.
If your Charter is hitting that low there is something wrong with it or you. A Charter is not the same quality as a S&W but capable of much better performance tan you're getting.
If your Charter is hitting that low there is something wrong with it or you. A Charter is not the same quality as a S&W but capable of much better performance tan you're getting.
bannockburn
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bushrak
Here's another one for your viewing pleasure...a S&W Model 638, the lightweight companion to my stainless Model 649.
Here's another one for your viewing pleasure...a S&W Model 638, the lightweight companion to my stainless Model 649.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
In that case I will do my part too...after boasting about the accuracy now you people make me drool with the pictures of them...
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
Smith and Wesson has never put Transfer Bars in their revolvers. Ruger uses Transfer Bars. In this photo, the arrow points to the transfer bar in a Ruger New Vaquero. The Transfer Bar is a device that transfers the impact of the hammer to the frame mounted firing pin. The Transfer Bar only rises up to transfer the blow when the trigger is pulled. If the gun should fall on the hammer spur, and the sear breaks, without the Transfer Bar raised, the hammer cannot reach the firing pin and the firearm will not fire.
Current Smith and Wesson revolvers use a frame mounted firing pin that is struck by the hammer, however S&W has never used Transfer Bars.
Instead, S&W uses a Hammer Block to prevent inadvertent discharges. The Hammer Block works exactly the opposite from a Transfer Bar. The Hammer Block prevents the hammer from falling far enough to fire a cartridge unless the trigger is held back. S&W has been using Hammer Blocks for many, many years. In this photo, the long, thin, slanted piece is the Hammer Block. Notice how the tip of it sits between the hammer and the frame. If something inside the revolver should break, the Hammer Block will prevent the hammer from moving forward enough to fire a cartridge. S&W first began putting this style of Hammer Block in their revolvers around 1944. Previous to that there were at least two different designs of Hammer Blocks in S&W revolvers.
Here is a more recent revolver with the lock and MIM parts. The Hammer Block in this revolver works exactly the same as in the older revolver.
Model 36.
This Flat Latch was made in 1961.
This one shipped in 1969.
Smith and Wesson has never put Transfer Bars in their revolvers. Ruger uses Transfer Bars. In this photo, the arrow points to the transfer bar in a Ruger New Vaquero. The Transfer Bar is a device that transfers the impact of the hammer to the frame mounted firing pin. The Transfer Bar only rises up to transfer the blow when the trigger is pulled. If the gun should fall on the hammer spur, and the sear breaks, without the Transfer Bar raised, the hammer cannot reach the firing pin and the firearm will not fire.
Current Smith and Wesson revolvers use a frame mounted firing pin that is struck by the hammer, however S&W has never used Transfer Bars.
Instead, S&W uses a Hammer Block to prevent inadvertent discharges. The Hammer Block works exactly the opposite from a Transfer Bar. The Hammer Block prevents the hammer from falling far enough to fire a cartridge unless the trigger is held back. S&W has been using Hammer Blocks for many, many years. In this photo, the long, thin, slanted piece is the Hammer Block. Notice how the tip of it sits between the hammer and the frame. If something inside the revolver should break, the Hammer Block will prevent the hammer from moving forward enough to fire a cartridge. S&W first began putting this style of Hammer Block in their revolvers around 1944. Previous to that there were at least two different designs of Hammer Blocks in S&W revolvers.
Here is a more recent revolver with the lock and MIM parts. The Hammer Block in this revolver works exactly the same as in the older revolver.
Model 36.
This Flat Latch was made in 1961.
This one shipped in 1969.
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Gunzine writer Dean Grennell said he had five Chiefs, each tagged with the load and range it happened to be zeroed for. If he could pick the conditions, he could show off a snubby.
Alte Schule
Member
My early 70's Model 36, pinned barrel, satin nickle finish, smooth trigger. Alongside it's big brother 586 for scale.
I also have a Colt Detective Special that has a fantastic trigger (as one would expect from Colt). I find the M 36 to be significantly more accurate in my hands, even with the smaller grips and heavier trigger.
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