Switching from Breakfree to Slip2000?

[Doxiedad]

Ok so when I got my AR 15 the only thing I had at the house was some Breakfree CLP, so I used it to clean and lube my AR so I could shoot it. Just got my bottle of slip2000 ewl in today.

Do I need to do any kind if cleaning/degreasing before switching? Or can I just wipe it down and relube with ewl?

 

[mc223]

I would thoroughly degrease all the parts that have Break- Free on them before applying the Slip for maximum benefit.

 

[Doxiedad]

Would denatured alcohol do the job? I happen to have some around here.

Thanks

 

[mc223]

That would be fine.

 

[P-32]

I used Slip 2000 and think FP-10 is a better lube than Break Free or Slip 2000.

 

[wally]

Why? Break-Free has done the job for me for ~30 years. As far as I'm concerned nothing is better, but most everything else is more expensive.

 

[Doxiedad]

Why? Break-Free has done the job for me for ~30 years. As far as I'm concerned nothing is better, but most everything else is more expensive.

Not trying to debate between the two. Both are fine products but I have decided to go with Slip2000 products.

I would thoroughly degrease all the parts that have Break- Free on them before applying the Slip for maximum benefit.

So just the BCG? Sorry to ask stupid questions but I'm still new to the AR world. Only other place I put CLP was the lube points on the rifle like the take down pins (?) trigger springs etc. I would think they are fine.

Can I just soak the BCG in the denatured alcohol, wipe down and apply the Slip2000?

Thanks.

 

[briansmithwins]

Hot soapy water is cheaper and much less flammable than alcohol. Just make sure you reoil after you're done or you'll get rust.

LK

 

[sarduy]

am i the only one that use wd-40 here...??? and mobil-1 oil?

 

[nathan]

I made my own Eds Red formula. Saves me a bundle and works pretty well.

 

[mc223]

Over time the Slip will work into all of those other places, So yeah the BCG mainly.
I use Moly grease in 1 tiny dab for the trigger. Caution up front. Grease on the trigger can change the feel of the trigger. It sure does make it smooth though.

Only parts that might rust with the exception of very worn or scratched is the opening of the Gas Key and maybe the Cam Pin. It was a standard practice in the Army that I was in to take showers with your weapon and never had a rust issue.
Mobil 1 maybe but Water Displacing Formula 40 really serves no purpose on a firearm. See why in the link below.

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

o

 

[Doxiedad]

Sounds good. Thanks for advice

 

[briansmithwins]

am i the only one that use wd-40 here...??? and mobil-1 oil?

No, I've used WD40 to blow water out of distributor caps when wet and ran my motorcycle on Mobile 1.

Would you run hydraulic pumps on gear oil or a fill a transformer with ATF?

Different lubes for different applications. Guns need a creepy oil that protect against rust. Engines need oil for pressurized bearings, which most guns are lacking.

BSW

 

[benzy2]

I wouldn't worry about using more than a dry rage to remove any previous lube. What is the benefit of removing the old with alcohol? I would rather keep whatever is left that is difficult to remove and let it work itself out through use, unless you think it's going to stop the Slip from working somehow.

Guns need a creepy oil that protect against rust.

Isn't that ATF? The fact it works well in other applications doesn't mean that a product does or doesn't meet the desired properties for firearms lube. Last I had heard, ATF migrates an appropriate amount and protects from rust.

 

[briansmithwins]

While there are expensive snake oils that are useless, I generally expect the engineers that design various lubricants to be competent.

How does the additive package and base oils differ between ATF and my gun oil of choice (Aeroshell Fliud 18)? I actually don't have a clue. Oil ain't what I do for a living. I put ATF in the tranny and gun oil in the gun. I buy in bulk and don't worry about the high cost of $26 per gallon.

But arguing about specific oils is another thread/pissing match, like 9mmP vs .45 ACP.

BSW

 

[dprice3844444]

sarduy,wd40 kills primers

 

[briansmithwins]

Not like I like to defend WD40, as I think it's overpriced crap for most situations. But it won't kill primers, unless you oil the primers before you load them in the case.

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot39.htm

BSW

 

[TonyAngel]

The big advantage of Slip over the other lubes I've used is that it does evaporate or cook off. In my ARs, I lube every 500 rounds and have never had to lube before to get a rifle back up and running.

I got tired of putting Breakfree CLP on my guns before I put them away, only to have to relube them before actually shooting. Or, having to relube because all of it cooked off with the heat.

 

[Coal Dragger]

Good synthetic base motor oils work really well too. Castrol Syntec or Mobile 1 5w-30 do great on an AR, and cost a lot less than dedicated gun lubes. Plus motor oils have very high flash/evaporation temps so they tend to stay on a hot gun.

 

[HoosierQ]

WD-40 gums up. Seen it happen. Wouldn't use that. Mobil 1 is good to go.

 

[Coal Dragger]

WD-40 is NOT A LUBRICANT!

It is a water displacer! Great for if you drop your rifle or handgun or shotgun in the drink, and need to get the water out and prevent corrosion. However it is just next to worthless as a lubricant.

 

[jem375]

Don't use WD40 in cold weather, found out the hard way.. click, click...

 

[Sky]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=545607

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Yes lubes can be debated forever; we use lubes to decrease wear and provide an easier/slicker surface for movement. The all important "keep the rust away" is in there also.

The actual test I have seen published along with the using a product goes a long way if your results are satisfactory.