The RUGER OLD ARMY Club

Just a thought, wonder if you could play with shims under the rear sight? Or removing material from the rear sight (mounting surface ) depending on which direction you need to go.


Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
robhof

On the question of the ROA sight, I have modified both of mine by ordering new rear sight blades, (get the Blackhawk blades, same as ROA). Now you have spares if you over file. Bring fine flat file to range and way of bracing pistol for stable shots, move sight to bottom, shoot a shot, now file a small amount off top of blade, shoot, repeat till you are where you want to be, I have also filed out some in the center to see more of the sight blade. It took me 24 shots of measured charges and weighted balls to get, but now I can rapid shoot bullseye at 10 yds, which is what I wanted!
 
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I guess I'm a little late to the party ........well, at least I showed up.
This is my one and only roa, brand new, unfired, in the box.......all papers. 1988 mfg.
I paid $475 for it on gunbroker about 10 years ago. I ran right out and bought both Kirst cylinders (fluted) and 1 back plate.
I feel so bad that I've never fired it, I almost want to buy another one in used condition so I can treat it like the red headed stepchild or what-have you.
Don't even get me started on the 5 shot .50 cal conversion..........I guess I need 2 more roa's, one to shoot, and one to have hacked up into a .50 hand cannon.
I've read a lot of the posts in this thread but not all 102 pages yet (I only poop once a day). I eventually decided to stop reading and jump in, couldn't wait get my girl on this new fangled roa porn site.
Thanks for all the great info guys.......keep it coming!
Mike
 

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"Go .50 you'll love the power and accuracy"


I went to clements site yesterday, they're still advertising the conversion, at around $1300
I had heard they weren't doing the .50 conversions anymore, I might have to give them a call.
It said there was approximately an 8 month wait unless you want to pay extra for expedited service.
I'd like to see a "slab sided" option for the barrel. I assume with an octogonal barrel it wouldn't be out of the question.
I see they offer something similar for other customs they do.
 
On the question of the ROA sight, I have modified both of mine by ordering new rear sight blades, (get the Blackhawk blades, same as ROA). Now you have spares if you over file. Bring fine flat file to range and way of bracing pistol for stable shots, move sight to bottom, shoot a shot, now file a small amount off top of blade, shoot, repeat till you are where you want to be, I have also filed out some in the center to see more of the sight blade. It took me 24 shots of measured charges and weighted balls to get, but now I can rapid shoot bullseye at 10 yds, which is what I wanted!
I did the rear sight as you did but I also replaced the front sight in my SS model by driving out the split pin and replacing the stock sight with one I shaped from a 1/8" thick piece of flat stock.
After shaping and shortening the extra-tall piece of metal to the correct dimensions, I cold blued it and pinned and epoxied it in place. That was 3 years ago and it has worked great ever since.

It is not possible to do a blued model the same way.
 
So, after years and years of happy shooting, I took a bunch of scouts out to shoot black powder. I was stressed to say the least, and I managed to bend my base pin by not securing the base pin latch. Does anyone have any idea where I can find a good stainless base pin for my "user" ROA? Both my kids suggested I take the base pin out of an unfired one I have. I don't think I'm going to do that! The gun is still usable, but not as smooth as it once was. I don't think I'll shoot it until I get her fixed.
 
I didn't secure my base pin the first day out. Finding no parts I bent it back into shape. It's been working just fine for a few years now.

There was someone who found a company willing to make that and possibly a couple of other parts. This was years ago...
 
I think I recall seeing someone listing machined replacement base pins on EBay within the last year or so, but I haven't paid much attention to EBay in quite a while. (I just looked and didn't see any listed currently) I'm pretty sure I saw them previously by simply searching "Ruger Old Army"

I would just bend it back, and make a mental note not to ever do that again...
 
So, after years and years of happy shooting, I took a bunch of scouts out to shoot black powder. I was stressed to say the least, and I managed to bend my base pin by not securing the base pin latch. Does anyone have any idea where I can find a good stainless base pin for my "user" ROA? Both my kids suggested I take the base pin out of an unfired one I have. I don't think I'm going to do that! The gun is still usable, but not as smooth as it once was. I don't think I'll shoot it until I get her fixed.
I also bent my base pin so I contacted Belt Mountain (http://www.beltmountain.com/) and bought the Ruger Old Army Quick Change Cylinder Conversion kit. Base pin and latch. Requires you to load "off gun".
 
That's actually a good idea; they are out of production and not available anywhere. Midway used to have them. I would actually buy a couple, just to have a spare.
 
It's a simple machine shop project to make a centerpin.

However, I'd try straightening out the existing one first.
 
Mine is not the center pin, it's the loading lever... broke when I tried to straighten (had a machinist try).
 
Let me see if I can find the name of a foundry to cast you a new one. Can the old one be glued together for a mold?
 
robhof

I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one to bend the center pin, sorry misery loves company. The good news is with careful tapping with a light hammer on a smooth hard surface, you can straighten it and even an expert can't tell it was ever bent, but just to be safe as it is possible to break it at the pin retainer slot, I did get a spare a few yrs back also from Ebay, the blued ones come up more frequently and can be used. if you want uniformity, strip the blued pin and have it nickel plated!
 
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