Thoughts About My Mauser

[CamaroDMD]

So, I have a sporterized 1938 Mauser 98k that has been handed down to me. Basically, it was purchased by my grandfather sometime in the 1950s or 1960s. As I have been told it was already sporterized when he bought it and at that time it was shooting an 8mm-06 wild cat round. Down the road, both he and my father hunted with it and eventually it was rebarreled to shoot 30.06. They always hunted with it using iron sights as they never got around to having it drilled and tapped for a scope. My grandfather died before I was born and my father preferred to hunt with a scoped .270 so in the back of the safe this rifle sat.

Fast forward to my childhood (late 1990s, early 2000s), I hunted with his rifle. It was the perfect rifle for me. I love military style rifles and have a deep interest in German history (even trying to learn the language). Plus, it had been handed down through the family and now it was mine. I hunted with it iron sights with the plan to get it drilled and tapped for a scope...but never getting around to it (sorta feels like a lazy family tradition, haha).

Well, I grew up and went to college and then graduate school. Eventually, I got married (to a non-gun girl) and got a job (2 of them actually) and now have a couple kids. I haven't hunted in years. Hunting doesn't interest me anymore. I enjoy going to the range and punching holes in paper or shooting metal targets and participating in the occasional competition at the range. As a result, this Mauser has sat in the back of my safe and gathered dust.

I'm trying to decide what to do with it. I pulled it out of the safe the other day and looked it over. As far as I can tell without fully disassembling it...it's a complete mis-match gun. No matching numbers and it is sporterized...so no real "collector value" of any kind. My first thought is to finally get it drilled and tapped and put a scope on it...to use for 300 yard (and maybe even try the 600 yard) events at the range. I know it's not the best cartridge for that, but it would still be fun. My plan was to always get that done and then replace it with a nicer sporter stock.

For some reason, I am hesitant to have it drilled and tapped. Even though this gun has no originality, there is a little voice inside of me that doesn't want to further alter the original German parts. Is that a crazy/stupid way to think?

With a scope on it, I could use it at the range in a way I would enjoy and it would be a more effective hunting rifle if I ever decided to hunt again (or take my boys hunting). Simply put, with a scope it would get used...without one it probably won't.

I also want to replace the stock. It has an old wood sporter stock on it that could be refinished...but it has no eyelets to mount a bipod or for a sling. So, I feel that it would be easier to replace the stock with something newer that has those features.

Something along these lines:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...-barrel-contour-laminated-brown-wood-finished

https://www.amazon.com/Mauser-Large-Sporter-Checkered-Walnut/dp/B01M1B7NMD

My concern with the stocks is I don't know how much fit adjustment it would take. I don't have much experience working with wood.

I spoke with my dad about it...and he is all for me making changes. He says that he wants me to keep it and enjoy it...and I should build it into something that I would be proud to own and use.

Is there any reason why I should feel bad about drilling and tapping the receiver? Can anyone recommended a good sporter stock and help me understand what kind of fit and finish issues I will need to deal with?

Thanks.

 

[Jim Watson]

I see nothing wrong with getting it more-sporterized to suit yourself and get use out of it.
Bear in mind that drilling and tapping for scope bases is not the end of the work, you would need the bolt handle bent and a scope safety installed unless you want to stick your neck out to see through a ridiculously high scope.
I would look at a synthetic stock with the action screwed to an aluminum bedding block.

 

[CamaroDMD]

I see nothing wrong with getting it more-sporterized to suit yourself and get use out of it.
Bear in mind that drilling and tapping for scope bases is not the end of the work, you would need the bolt handle bent and a scope safety installed unless you want to stick your neck out to see through a ridiculously high scope.
I would look at a synthetic stock with the action screwed to an aluminum bedding block.

The bolt is already bent on mine...some of them came from the factory like that. I think it was pretty standard on the Karabiner 98k models...but I don't know for sure.

The safety had me wondering though. I didn't know if the scope could be positioned forward enough to prevent it from interfering or it would need to be changed.

 

[ZGunner]

I love an iron sighted bolt action. But if you aren’t going to use it in that configuration, then I say get it drilled and tapped. It’s already modified, so there is no harm in updating it to the times. I can still see well enough to shoot iron sights accurately, but when my eyes start to decline, you’d best be sure I’ll have scopes on everything I own.

 

[cdb1]

I could be wrong but the wood stock from Numrich looks like a “Battue” style which is better suited to iron sights than a scope. That style of stock also increases felt recoil to some, myself included.

 

[mpd61]

You said it yourself, no scope=no use.......
What are you waiting for?

 

[CamaroDMD]

I could be wrong but the wood stock from Numrich looks like a “Battue” style which is better suited to iron sights than a scope. That style of stock also increases felt recoil to some, myself included.

I would prefer a wood stock, ideally aesthetically pleasing and honestly with a built in butt pad. Butt pad isn't required but it does make them a bit more comfortable in my opinion. I have always really liked how the Boyd's laminate looked in photos but I have never seen one. One concern I have is my rifle has a bent bolt, which would require a notch to be cut into the stock to make room for it. How difficult would that be? Also, I assume I would want to buy an unfinished stock and then finish it after modifying it?

You said it yourself, no scope=no use.......
What are you waiting for?

Honestly, you're right. I guess I just need to figure out what exactly I want it to be and get to work on it.

 

[IndianaBoy]

Are the iron sights on it nicely done? There is a serious lack of good quality hunting rifles available today with quality iron sights.

In my mind, it would be a shame to lose that utility, but I enjoy hunting with irons at times.

For the cost of the work to have it drilled and tapped, you would be halfway to a modern bolt action that is ready for a scope, and possibly more accurate.

Got any pics of the rifle?

 

[CamaroDMD]

Are the iron sights on it nicely done? There is a serious lack of good quality hunting rifles available today with quality iron sights.

In my mind, it would be a shame to lose that utility, but I enjoy hunting with irons at times.

For the cost of the work to have it drilled and tapped, you would be halfway to a modern bolt action that is ready for a scope, and possibly more accurate.

Got any pics of the rifle?

I'll post some photos of it when I get home (currently at work ). I don't love the irons. The rear sight is awfully far forward on the barrel for my tastes...but I mostly shoot my AR-15s and my M1 Garand iron sights so I'm used to having the rear sight much further back. I have no interest in getting a modern rifle...I want to try and turn what I have into something that I will use.

 

[morcey2]

The bolt is already bent on mine...some of them came from the factory like that. I think it was pretty standard on the Karabiner 98k models...but I don't know for sure.

The safety had me wondering though. I didn't know if the scope could be positioned forward enough to prevent it from interfering or it would need to be changed.

The bolt may be bent, but it still won't clear a scope unless it's mounted extremely high. It needs to be either forged into shape or cut and welded. Getting a safety that will clear the scope isn't a big deal. I like the Timney safety. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/473058/timney-buehler-style-low-swing-safety-mauser-98-blue

As for a stock, I really like the Boyds classic line. I've got one mauser in one and two more going soon, one on another mauser and one on a savage. You'll probably need to do a little inletting depending on the barrel.

Matt

 

[someguy2800]

It takes about 20 minutes to put sling studs on a stock.

 

[kBob]

I am waiting to see the pictures but I assume this no longer has military style sights.

Have you considered a long eye relief scope ("scout scope") or even some sort of rear receiver bridge mounted peep sight like what you have on your AR and Garand?

As several guys have said you are likely to run into the bolt handle issue on an unmodified K98k bolt unless you go with such high mounts that your check weld would become chin weld.

It is your rifle to do with as you please and given the changes made to it before you got it I see no reason to expect the anti bubba whinners to show up waving protest signs if you scope (with changes necessary to do so) and restock.

Having Grandpa and Dads rifle is neat, what ever it is.

-kBob

 

[cdb1]

A recoil pad is easy and inexpensive.

 

[mustanger98]

kBob kinda beat me to it with post #12... There's plenty of K98k's been sportered with reciever sights... Lyman #'s 48 and 57, and Redfield #70... there were versions made to fit the action whether or not it'd been remodeled. Plenty got scoped too. I'd have to see the pics to comment further.

 

[CamaroDMD]

It takes about 20 minutes to put sling studs on a stock.

That thought had crossed my mind too...but to be honest I don't care for the stock it has. I figured I would just change it along the way. The studs and lack of recoil pad were a good excuse though. I could always do that and refinish it...it might be just fine. My first priority is to understand how feasible it will be to turn the rifle into what I have in my head. It might not be at all.

I am waiting to see the pictures but I assume this no longer has military style sights.

No they are long gone...probably tossed with the old barrel decades ago.

I will get photos up tonight.

 

[22250Rem]

In the last couple years I've become a fan of good synthetic stocks with aluminum bedding blocks even though I love fine wood and laminates also. Currently have two Bell & Carlson synthetics with full length bedding blocks, one of which is on a mod. 96 Mauser that was sporterized by Kimber in the mid 1990's. Kimber was using cheap, injection molded plastic stocks that tended to crack at the recoil lug. The B&C I replaced it with was the best thing I ever did to that rifle. B&C have ones for Mauser 98's also and those bedding blocks are terrific (IMHO) and very beneficial in the accuracy dept. If you ever reconsider some of your ideas take a look at them. And as long as the gun is already sporterized and mismatched I would consult a professional about drilling and tapping and which bases would fit properly and see if any bolt handle work would be required. It's nice that your family heirloom story has some continuity and if it gets set up into a good solid hunting rifle then some day your kids could carry the good solid heirloom afield also.

 

[Offfhand]

I would prefer a wood stock, ideally aesthetically pleasing and honestly with a built in butt pad.

Mr. Camaro, you have the right instincts. Attached is a surplus Mauser that has been transformed to "aesthetically pleasing" with a pretty piece of wood, recoil pad and scope. Plus a few other touches that make it a pleasure to shoot and own. Life is too short to hunt with a ugly gun.

 

[LoonWulf]

Mr. Camaro, you have the right instincts. Attached is a surplus Mauser that has been transformed to "aesthetically pleasing" with a pretty piece of wood, recoil pad and scope. Plus a few other touches that make it a pleasure to shoot and own. Life is too short to hunt with a ugly gun.View attachment 804029 View attachment 804030

You really need to post a picture of an ugly gun!

One concern I have is my rifle has a bent bolt, which would require a notch to be cut into the stock to make room for it. How difficult would that be? Also, I assume I would want to buy an unfinished stock and then finish it after modifying it?

Let's see what your bolt handle looks like, either way modifying the stock is of minimal effort and skill.
I would probably go with a Boyd's finished laminate, the cut you will need to make can be done with files/rasps and then just clear coated to match the rest of the finish. No need to refinish the whole stock.
Another option would be to buy a vintage Fajen, or Bishop stock, which can be had on eBay pretty cheap.

If you feel like you want to use the rifle, I think that having the work done to make useable and fun, would be worth the cost. Even if that ends up being more than you could buy a new rifle for.
I've had (and have) some sporterized rifles, and the newer modern guns I've got are better for less cost, BUT they don't have the history (if that's your thing).

 

[Slamfire]

Is there any reason why I should feel bad about drilling and tapping the receiver? Can anyone recommended a good sporter stock and help me understand what kind of fit and finish issues I will need to deal with?

Any value that your Mauser had as a military rifle went away long ago. Trying to "restore" a Mauser is more expensive than drilling and tapping, adding scope mounts, putting on a new stock. I would leave the double stage military trigger alone, but I would install a new Wolff mainspring, https://www.gunsprings.com/MAUSER/1898/cID2/mID40/dID175. Do not install one of the extra pound springs, their lowest compression spring of 22 lbs is enough. Your mainspring is old, and you will be surprised just how much it has compressed, once you get a new one. I absolutely do not recommend changing calibers if the barrel is good. The 8mm Mauser round is an excellent round in its own right. If the barrel is good, leave it alone. If the barrel is horrible, and often military barrels are, Midway has these Green Mountain barrels at very reasonable prices. This 7 X 57 Mauser is $87, you still have to find someone to install it, but, I have been told that these Green Mountain barrels are good. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...-1-in-9-1-2-twist-21-chrome-moly-in-the-white Costs for brand name barrel replacement, just had one installed on a pre 64 M70, $300 for the blank, $300 for the installation. The blank had to be turned, so starting out with a short chambered, threaded, Mauser barrel is a lot better solution for a sporter rifle. Your receiver, you are going to be limited to 8 mm Mauser, 7mm Mauser, 308 Win. I don't know about a 6.5 Swede, should work, maybe the bolt face is not wide enough. The Swede round is a little wider than an 8mm.

I noticed a Boyd's Mauser stock with the miitary Mauser contour:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...arrel-channel-walnut-semi-inletted-unfinished



You can spend a lot of money on an old military action, I am absolutely against converting a full military, all original, rifle. But once the thing has been modified, it is a shooter. Have several shooters myself:











Make it into a rifle you will enjoy. What is wrong with that?

 

[CamaroDMD]

Here are some photos for those of you who wanted to see them. Honestly, it looks to me like the bolt handle has already been modified. It is bent very differently than the bolt on my authentic 98k. I never bothered to compare them as I haven't used this rifle since I was a kid. I reminds me more of the bolt handle on a Remington 700.

Mr. Camaro, you have the right instincts. Attached is a surplus Mauser that has been transformed to "aesthetically pleasing" with a pretty piece of wood, recoil pad and scope. Plus a few other touches that make it a pleasure to shoot and own. Life is too short to hunt with a ugly gun.View attachment 804029 View attachment 804030

That rifle is beautiful. I want mine to be something like that.

You really need to post a picture of an ugly gun!


Let's see what your bolt handle looks like, either way modifying the stock is of minimal effort and skill.
I would probably go with a Boyd's finished laminate, the cut you will need to make can be done with files/rasps and then just clear coated to match the rest of the finish. No need to refinish the whole stock.
Another option would be to buy a vintage Fajen, or Bishop stock, which can be had on eBay pretty cheap.

If you feel like you want to use the rifle, I think that having the work done to make useable and fun, would be worth the cost. Even if that ends up being more than you could buy a new rifle for.
I've had (and have) some sporterized rifles, and the newer modern guns I've got are better for less cost, BUT they don't have the history (if that's your thing).

Now that I look at it again, I think my bolt handle has already been modified.

As for your last line, it is my thing. I love the history and the story...and frankly having something a little different. I was shooting my more original 98k a few weeks ago at the range and 2 people stopped me to ask what it was and wanted to see it (I even let one of them shoot it). I love that part of it...and this one has even more because there is a family history there.

Any value that your Mauser had as a military rifle went away long ago. Trying to "restore" a Mauser is more expensive than drilling and tapping, adding scope mounts, putting on a new stock. I would leave the double stage military trigger alone, but I would install a new Wolff mainspring, https://www.gunsprings.com/MAUSER/1898/cID2/mID40/dID175. Do not install one of the extra pound springs, their lowest compression spring of 22 lbs is enough. Your mainspring is old, and you will be surprised just how much it has compressed, once you get a new one. I absolutely do not recommend changing calibers if the barrel is good. The 8mm Mauser round is an excellent round in its own right. If the barrel is good, leave it alone. If the barrel is horrible, and often military barrels are, Midway has these Green Mountain barrels at very reasonable prices. This 7 X 57 Mauser is $87, you still have to find someone to install it, but, I have been told that these Green Mountain barrels are good. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...-1-in-9-1-2-twist-21-chrome-moly-in-the-white Costs for brand name barrel replacement, just had one installed on a pre 64 M70, $300 for the blank, $300 for the installation. The blank had to be turned, so starting out with a short chambered, threaded, Mauser barrel is a lot better solution for a sporter rifle. Your receiver, you are going to be limited to 8 mm Mauser, 7mm Mauser, 308 Win. I don't know about a 6.5 Swede, should work, maybe the bolt face is not wide enough. The Swede round is a little wider than an 8mm.

I noticed a Boyd's Mauser stock with the miitary Mauser contour:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...arrel-channel-walnut-semi-inletted-unfinished

View attachment 804046

You can spend a lot of money on an old military action, I am absolutely against converting a full military, all original, rifle. But once the thing has been modified, it is a shooter. Have several shooters myself:



View attachment 804047

View attachment 804048

View attachment 804049

View attachment 804050

Make it into a rifle you will enjoy. What is wrong with that?

This rifle has already been re-barreled and fully converted to 30.06. I do love the original 8mm round, but this is long past that. Personally, I prefer a military 2-stage trigger and plan on keeping it. I might look into cleaning it up a little, but I like 2 stage triggers.

 

[troy fairweather]

mausers are very nice with just sights. id get some express sights with the flip ups. look at Richards micro fits stocks u can get a very nice stock for about 75 to 200 buck. he has a over run page with lots of stocks for about 45 to 150 i see a classic sporter in expedition grade with a small flaw i think it was about 20 bucks.

 

[troy fairweather]

here is my 09 by john van patten he was ackleys forman for years he was 82 when he did this for me right before he died. sorry for the bad pic.

 

[LoonWulf]

Now that I look at it again, I think my bolt handle has already been modified.

As for your last line, it is my thing. I love the history and the story...and frankly having something a little different. I was shooting my more original 98k a few weeks ago at the range and 2 people stopped me to ask what it was and wanted to see it (I even let one of them shoot it). I love that part of it...and this one has even more because there is a family history there.

Yep your bolt should clear a fairly low scope. Your stock also looks like an old bishop. I don't care for the cheak piece on those, but they bring about 100-150 on eBay in that condition.

The stock on @Offfhand rifle is probably worth more than most of the guns I own, and honestly every time he post a picture I have another reason to keep saving for some quality wood, and work.

 

[mustanger98]

True that express sights are an option, but so is a Lyman or Redfield reciever sight as I mentioned earlier. The current stock appears to be cut for it, and your next stock can be easily cut for it. To mount a reciever sight or scope, this reciever appears to be a blank canvas for a precise drill/tap. As others have said, your bolt handle don't look like a problem.

If you don't like the comb/cheekpiece on this stock, Larry Potterfield has videos on stock reconfiguration at MidwayUSA. Adding a nice new recoil reducing pad isn't a big problem either, except you'll want a smith to install a grind-to-fit type... there's a jig involved. If you don't like the current stock, period, that's already being discussed too.

 

[LoonWulf]

Any value that your Mauser had as a military rifle went away long ago. Trying to "restore" a Mauser is more expensive than drilling and tapping, adding scope mounts, putting on a new stock. I would leave the double stage military trigger alone, but I would install a new Wolff mainspring, https://www.gunsprings.com/MAUSER/1898/cID2/mID40/dID175. Do not install one of the extra pound springs, their lowest compression spring of 22 lbs is enough. Your mainspring is old, and you will be surprised just how much it has compressed, once you get a new one. I absolutely do not recommend changing calibers if the barrel is good. The 8mm Mauser round is an excellent round in its own right. If the barrel is good, leave it alone. If the barrel is horrible, and often military barrels are, Midway has these Green Mountain barrels at very reasonable prices. This 7 X 57 Mauser is $87, you still have to find someone to install it, but, I have been told that these Green Mountain barrels are good. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...-1-in-9-1-2-twist-21-chrome-moly-in-the-white Costs for brand name barrel replacement, just had one installed on a pre 64 M70, $300 for the blank, $300 for the installation. The blank had to be turned, so starting out with a short chambered, threaded, Mauser barrel is a lot better solution for a sporter rifle. Your receiver, you are going to be limited to 8 mm Mauser, 7mm Mauser, 308 Win. I don't know about a 6.5 Swede, should work, maybe the bolt face is not wide enough. The Swede round is a little wider than an 8mm.

I noticed a Boyd's Mauser stock with the miitary Mauser contour:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...arrel-channel-walnut-semi-inletted-unfinished

View attachment 804046

You can spend a lot of money on an old military action, I am absolutely against converting a full military, all original, rifle. But once the thing has been modified, it is a shooter. Have several shooters myself:



View attachment 804047

View attachment 804048

View attachment 804049

View attachment 804050

Make it into a rifle you will enjoy. What is wrong with that?

Those are nice conversions as well!

View attachment 804059 here is my 09 by john van patten he was ackleys forman for years he was 82 when he did this for me right before he died. sorry for the bad pic.

I'm still waiting for a better picture of that rifle lol.

I also agree Richards Microfit is a good deal if your into finishing your own stock. They are very close to fitted on 98% actions and only take a little internal work usually. Exterior has enough meant to shape the way you want.
The shapes are more organic and traditional than the most current stocks I've gotten from Boyd's
Here's one I did a while back for a Savage.