Tips on partial full size for lever action 30-30

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Eb1

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Can I get some tips on setting the die to partially full length size my 30-30 brass?

Thanks
 
Eb1
Ive never reloaded for a lever gun but it should be the same as my pump so here goes.
Start with oncefired brass from your rifle. Back off the full legnth sizing die a few turns then place a case in shellholder and deprime/size chamber in rifle gently screw die down slightly resize some more continue adjusting die and testing in rifle chamber untill bolt will close with only slight resistance at this point lock die ring and resize remaining cases.
To be sure everything is good to go load one complete cartridge and test in chamber before loading others if all is well continue loading if not you may need to size remaining cases a bit more.
As I said ive never tried this with a lever gun but it works in my pump so should be similar.
LUCK
T
 
What T Bran said...

When I load for my 336, starting with brass that has already been full length re-sized and fired in the rifle, I've found that I only need to just lightly bump the shoulder and I'm good to go.
 
Goodto know. I'm loading for a 336 also. I am finding that my 336 has a long throat. I knpw that partiL dizing eont help that, but I want to try something different.
 
Do remember that as the brass work hardens the brass springs back more potentially getting hard to chamber in time if you start off sizing barely enough to chamber.

IE, you may have to adjust the sizer down a hair after a few firings if you start sizing to barely fit.
 
I had to trim all my brass the first time. Since then, I'm getting 2-3 firings, usually, without having to trim.

When you crimp, make sure you're only squeezing the neck and not doing anything to accidentally bump the shoulder. I have a half-dozen rounds I still need to pull because I did that and they won't chamber.

Q
 
T Bran, thanks for the info. Before I read this thread, I had just fully resized 200 cases. I wish I would hae partially sized them to increase brass life. Well, you live and you learn.
 
I have found that it is best to full length size for my lever action 30-30. Anything less often leaves some rounds very hard to chamber. That is the last thing I need with a big buck on the horizon. If you are just shooting tin cans, who cares?
 
When you crimp, make sure you're only squeezing the neck and not doing anything to accidentally bump the shoulder. I have a half-dozen rounds I still need to pull because I did that and they won't chamber.

My crimp/seating die will not bump the shoulder. It is mechanically impossible. What can easily happen trying to crimp a jacketed bullet without a crimp ring, is that the crimp die will actually bulge the brass of the neck, making it hard to chamber. It is a tough problem to crimp a jacketed bullet without a crimp ring. To do so you have to actually press the end of the casing into the bullet. It is possible to do this, but if your brass varies at all in length, you will get mixed results on the crimp and a bulged neck now and then. To get consistency of crimp your brass has to be sized all the same length. Then it is a delicate adjustment to get a little crimp without bulging the neck.

If your bullets happen to have a crimp ring or cannelure in the right spot, then it is much easier to get a good crimp. My luck, even if the bullet has a cannelure, it is never in the right spot to crimp in it.
 
I normally dont crimp with my seating die I do it in a seperate step with a Lee factory crimp die. Both methods work well I just like the FCD.
T
 
I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die for 30-30. I don't crimp .223 or .25-06.
 
The only time I use a FCD on .223 is when im shooting 22cal pellets with a mag primer and no powder charge it just keeps them from slipping down into the case.
T
 
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