Took the plunge! I ordered a reconditioned Lee Pro-1000...

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flip180

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Well, after paying over 30.00 for 100 rds. of .357 for my 4in GP100 the other day I said "to hell with that". I called Lee Precision and ordered a reconditioned Pro-1000, reloading manual, and powder scale. It will come with .38 SPCL. carbide dies which, I was told by the lady on the phone will load .357 also. I haven't shot my 642 in a while either and won't buy anymore store bought ammo for it. I guess the learning curve begins:eek: . I know it isn't top of the line but, I really haven't heard any real bad comments about the pro-1000 to pursuade me to buy any other press for the price paid. I ended up getting the press for 80.00. You can't beat that with a stick. Anyway, I'll be lurking over here in this part of the forum to see if I can pick up some tips fromm current and previous threads.

Thanks, Robert.
 
Before it arrives, I suggest buying and reading The ABC's of Reloading. It will cover just about everything someone needs to know to start out with reloading.
 
Definitely read all you can about reloading. Perhaps you have a shooting partner who reloads as well? That would be excellent, but not 100% necessary.

As to the Lee, watch the %&&* primer feeder. It can get a little dirty and stop cold. Not a good thing. Took a while to learn this lesson and a few rounds into the reject box waiting to be dismantled.

Also, to prevent the shell holder (you'll learn which parts are which when you get the press; this is the plate at the top the dies thread into) from moving up and down, get a couple of washers, a wing-nut and a bolt. There is an extra hole on the left side of the top. Push bolt up through, drop on washers, secure wing nut. Presto! No variations in the length of loaded ammo.

There isn't really anything else to worry about IME. Just be careful and pay attention. Before you know it, you'll be cranking out more ammo than you can shoot. Or shooting more to keep up with the ammo supply! :)
 
I really can't wait to get started.

I still have to build a bench for it in my guest room so, It will give me time to do some reading up on the process before I get started. I have a ton of things to do around the house also so, It'll be a while before I can set time aside to even build the bench. I have over 600 .38 spcl brass, 100 .357 brass and 500 .45 brass around the house in plastic bags. I'm really getting the .45 bug again so, once I get comfortable reloading .38 and .357, I might start to reload the .45 brass and buy another .45 to shoot it out of.

Robert.
 
Also, to prevent the shell holder (you'll learn which parts are which when you get the press; this is the plate at the top the dies thread into) from moving up and down, get a couple of washers, a wing-nut and a bolt. There is an extra hole on the left side of the top. Push bolt up through, drop on washers, secure wing nut. Presto! No variations in the length of loaded ammo.

i think walker means the die turret.... shell holder holds the brass....

also replace the brass chain on the powder measure with a steel one..
 
where to get a steel chain?

I was thinking the hardware store if anything. What is wrong with the brass piece? I would assume that it would either stretch or possibly break, correct?

Robert.
 
i broke the brass chain about 150 rounds in.... the chain likes to hang on the shell holder every now and then... i got the steel chain at the local hardware store, replaced it and the spring with a much stiffer one, no problems since....

after i loaded about 1000 rnds or so i broke down the press and cleaned it up, i also went ahead and painted all the bare steel parts, since they were starting to rust.... also painted my dies too... just some flat black spray worked great...
 
just curious.....

I shoot black powder revolvers. I have an 1851 Colt Navy .44 cal., 1858 Remmington New-Army .44 cal., and an 1860 Colt Navy Sherrif .44 cal.. All of which are pietta made steel framed replicas. Other than the equipment, the concept of reloading is pretty much the same, correct? I'm just going to use this for range ammo so, I'm not really going to experiment too much with different types of loads and such. I use the same type and amount powder in my BP pistols everytime I take them to the range because, that's what works as far as consistency and accuracy.

Thanks, Robert.
 
Principles are the same, but there are some "gotchas" to watch for with smokeless powder. For example, OAL (overall length) of the round. Some of the high pressure rounds--if you load them too short you'll drive pressures up dangerously. Don't have that problem with Black Powder.
 
Like they said , Keep the primer trough clean.
Make sure the primer trough is always full if it isn't you will start getting tipped primers . Once you get used to it I think you will like it .

Good Luck , Bill
 
I'm ready to get started but,,,,,,,,

I just wished I din't have so much going on around the house. Lets see:rolleyes: , finish the floor in the newly remodeled bathroom, get the apt. ready for a new renter, divide the backyard with a chainlink fence so the apt. can have it's own yard, get the nursery ready for the new baby and "Oh yeah" build the reloading bench. I wish I could split down the middle and half of me do one thing and the other half do something else.

Robert.
 
Just make sure you're fully focused when reloading. This is especially true with a progressive press. It's easy to doublecharge, or fail to charge, a cartridge. Unlike loading with BP, the results can be disasterous. :( We want to keep you around, and safe.
 
Flip, I suggest you load only 5-10 rounds to start, that way if you goof which
we all did at start then it's not such a loss., I dont know much about the
Lee 1000 but I also suggest you seat and crimp in different steps overall
while taking longer it produces a much better load.
 
I picked up a reconditioned one a while ago. It's worked well but like everyone has said, watch the primer feed ramp. A little bit of graphite on it helps as well as keeping the primer tray full.

Take it slow, and whatever you do, look into every case before you put the bullet on to make sure the level looks right.

Be safe

G19Man
 
I got in in today

I'm scared to unpack it. It will definatley take some reading up on to learn how to use it. The manual I ordered with it is quite indepth and will provide a steep learning curve. I'm sure getting hands on the press after it is mounted along with reading in the manual will provide a better understanding on how it works and what does what.

Robert.
 
loose the chain on the powder measure it. to do so you'll need a couple of parts from the "old" style measure. you'll need:


AD2306 adm actuator $5.00
AD2309 powder measure leaver "f" $2.00
AD2296 spring $0.50

you won't belive how much easier the press is to operate with those parts installed vs the chain. the lever for the chain, and the chain type actuator.

watch the primers like a hawk. don't let them go low. then they get lowenough that you can go ahead and refill do so and don't put in more than 50. if you het a powder spill into the priming system stop, pull the toolhead and remove the shell plate from the carrier imediatly! you'll need to clean it.
 
Rule 1
Read and follow all directions!
Rule 2
DO NOT use oil,grease,silicone,wax,WD-40,rendered animal fat,spit,or anything on any part that comes in contact with the primer feeder. This means the shellplate or any part of the shellplate carrier.
Rule 3
If you have any problems refer to Rule 1.

I bought my first Pro 1000 in the late 1980's and it worked so well I bought another one. Had one set up for small primers and the other for large primers. Loaded 10,000+ on each one till I traded for a Loadmaster and only have room on my bench for one Pro 1000.
So if you have any questions feel free to email me at [email protected] because I have pretty much ran into every problem with a Pro 1000 that you can in the last 15 years.

PS-if you don't have a case collator it is a must have accessory.
 
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