Trust your process

[vaalpens]

I am new to reloading and has had no experience in how to identify brass that has been split at the neck, until this last week. As I was decapping and sizing my 40S&W brass, one caught my eye and I realized that I just found my first split brass. Since it was not that easy to pick out, I decided to go ahead with the decapping and sizing to see if it will be easier to identify. During this process I did not see anything obvious, but it seemed that the split was less noticeable after sizing. This was a concern so I decided to put it through the flare process. This is where I noticed that the flaring did not give me the normal sticky sound, and it sounded off.

So after this experience I decided to separate my flaring and priming process again, just so I can concentrate on the flaring alone since it seems that this is where it will be the easiest to identify split brass. So the next step was to put my 9mm brass through the flaring process since I don't have much in 9mm brass. I did not expect another split brass, but to my surprise I found a 9mm split brass during the flaring process. The split brass was very noticeable.

My lesson learned for this week is that I should go back to the flare only step even if it adds a bit of time to my process. I think I can trust my process now to be able to identify brass split at the neck without worrying that it will slip through the cracks.

 

[blarby]

An easy one-step is to place a bullet of the caliber in question on the end of a suitable hand tool with epoxy.

Manually "seat" the bullet/stick in every case.

You'll notice the splits straight away

If you sort and inspect before you tumble, the soot "lightning bolts" are a dead giveaway after a while.

 

[maxxhavoc]

Also, with many types of brass splits will make a different sound when dropped or rattled. Many times i will catch splits when I drop a handful in the tumbler. That one split can stand out.

Also, if one makes it past flaring to the seating stage sometimes the bullet will not seat as well if you do it by hand. When flared, the split cases tend to spring back to the original size, unless you do a heavy flare. With heavy flaring, the cracks get really obvious.

But you got the most important part right. If it doesn't look right, feel right, or sound right...stop and look at it closely.

 

[Potatohead]

This is a pretty good topic for us newer guys especially. Heck, I always "inspect" my brass, but I don't always know what Im "inspecting" for..

 

[vaalpens]

An easy one-step is to place a bullet of the caliber in question on the end of a suitable hand tool with epoxy.

Manually "seat" the bullet/stick in every case.

You'll notice the splits straight away

If you sort and inspect before you tumble, the soot "lightning bolts" are a dead giveaway after a while.

blarby, thanks for the advice. I only sort by caliber before cleaning, but these days my process is to sort by caliber, wash rinse and dry, tumble, and then decap and size. I was hoping that I had enough looks and touches in there to identify splits but it seems I did not. So it seems that the final placing of the bullet before seating will be another good time to identify any splits I missed during the flaring phase.

 

[vaalpens]

Also, with many types of brass splits will make a different sound when dropped or rattled. Many times i will catch splits when I drop a handful in the tumbler. That one split can stand out.

Also, if one makes it past flaring to the seating stage sometimes the bullet will not seat as well if you do it by hand. When flared, the split cases tend to spring back to the original size, unless you do a heavy flare. With heavy flaring, the cracks get really obvious.

But you got the most important part right. If it doesn't look right, feel right, or sound right...stop and look at it closely.

maxxhavoc, thanks for the comments. I did not think of it, but you and blarby's comments about identifying the split by placing/seating the bullet just made me more confident that it is highly unlikely that a split will make it through all my steps without being noticed.

 

[vaalpens]

This is a pretty good topic for us newer guys especially. Heck, I always "inspect" my brass, but I don't always know what Im "inspecting" for..

Potatohead, you make a good point. It was one of those things that I knew could happen but I never knew if I would be able to identify it during my process. At least now I am more confident in my process.

 

[Potatohead]

Strangely, I havent run into any yet. I have ran a 380 case up into a 9mm die sizing die though. That's kind of a weird feeling that you recognize right away too.

 

[splattergun]

If you're getting a lot of split necks you may be flaring a tad too much. I've loaded thousands of rounds and have found only 2 so far.

 

[vaalpens]

Strangely, I havent run into any yet. I have ran a 380 case up into a 9mm die sizing die though. That's kind of a weird feeling that you recognize right away too.

I did not expect a split brass this soon after I started reloading since I thought the 9mm FC brass was once fired. It could be that I moved the reloaded brass up by mistake. The 40S&W was a surprise also since I did not shoot reloaded Winchester brass that day. What I did shoot was some of my reloads, and a few Freedom Munitions reloads which was all Winchester headstamps. Yes, I even sort my reloads from Freedom Munitions by headstamp so that I can better keep track of my reloads.

 

[vaalpens]

If you're getting a lot of split necks you may be flaring a tad too much. I've loaded thousands of rounds and have found only 2 so far.

splattergun, you could be correct, but I try and keep the flare to a minimum. The 40S&W split brass I think was actually a Freedom Munitions reload (see my previous response), but the 9mm split has to be mine but I can't explain why. I will verify and make sure the my flaring is kept to a minimum.

 

[Hardtarget]

Yes! Inspect closely and EARLY! I really like to find the culls before I put any money in the process...primer/powder...extra time!

If it should be tossed...the sooner the better!

after that-load 'em up, shoot 'em up.

Mark

 

[Toprudder]

For inspection, I spin the brass with my right hand fingers while holding the case mouth against my left index finger, with the case mouth riding against my fingernail. If there is a split, I will feel it snag my fingernail. While I am spinning the case, I am also looking for cracks and bulges, or any other abnormality.

I wet tumble my brass before I inspect. While it might be easier in some cases to see a soot line along a crack, I prefer to have clean brass to help prevent lead exposure.

So far I have found 2 split case mouths out of about 5000 reloads.

 

[41 Mag]

Once upon a time when you got real quality brass from most of the manufacturers splits were usually due to overworking the case mouth by flaring and crimping.

Nowadays however it seems that in this world of make it as fast as we can and use as cheap or little of the base material as possible to make more money, things aren't so cut and dry. I have seen quite a few new factory load reports of split cases, in both handgun and rifle ammunition.

I inspect all of my cases before they hit the tumbler, and again as I am moving them from the sizing into the expander die, and again after that. I have seen them have zero defects going in, but get that squishy feeling when they are raised up into the dies, and come out with the split neck.

Years ago I shot a tons of 38 SPL and .357 loads using nickle plated cases. These seemed to be the worst at splitting, but were the easiest to see once they did. After I worked my way through those I switched to Starline, and I have to say it has been YEARS since I have had any issues. Some of my lower pressure loads I don't even know how many times I have loaded the cases. I do not put an excessive flare on them, just enough to be detectable by my thumbnail, and I don't over crimp anything. In most cases less can actually be better. I only use enough to hold the bullet in place through functioning, or several cylinders full in my revolvers.

It's good your finding out these things, and I can say that your on the right track. The more inspection you do up front the less weird issues you have later on.

 

[vaalpens]

Yes! Inspect closely and EARLY! I really like to find the culls before I put any money in the process...primer/powder...extra time!

If it should be tossed...the sooner the better!

after that-load 'em up, shoot 'em up.

Mark

Hardtarget, you are correct, and I try and inspect as much as I can. I have another step in my process after decapping where I put the brass in counts of 50 by headstamp and brush the primer pocket and inside of the brass. This allows me to turn the brass a few times in my hands and feel any imperfections like a split or anything else. Just one more step to toss some of them.

 

[vaalpens]

For inspection, I spin the brass with my right hand fingers while holding the case mouth against my left index finger, with the case mouth riding against my fingernail. If there is a split, I will feel it snag my fingernail. While I am spinning the case, I am also looking for cracks and bulges, or any other abnormality.

I wet tumble my brass before I inspect. While it might be easier in some cases to see a soot line along a crack, I prefer to have clean brass to help prevent lead exposure.

So far I have found 2 split case mouths out of about 5000 reloads.

Toprudder, I don't use my fingernail but I do spin the brass when I brush the primer pocket and inside of the brass. I now also turn it in my hand when I do the flaring and try and feel especially the mouth of the brass. I wash my brass before tumbling, so I also miss out on seeing the soot line.

 

[vaalpens]

Once upon a time when you got real quality brass from most of the manufacturers splits were usually due to overworking the case mouth by flaring and crimping.

Nowadays however it seems that in this world of make it as fast as we can and use as cheap or little of the base material as possible to make more money, things aren't so cut and dry. I have seen quite a few new factory load reports of split cases, in both handgun and rifle ammunition.

I inspect all of my cases before they hit the tumbler, and again as I am moving them from the sizing into the expander die, and again after that. I have seen them have zero defects going in, but get that squishy feeling when they are raised up into the dies, and come out with the split neck.

Years ago I shot a tons of 38 SPL and .357 loads using nickle plated cases. These seemed to be the worst at splitting, but were the easiest to see once they did. After I worked my way through those I switched to Starline, and I have to say it has been YEARS since I have had any issues. Some of my lower pressure loads I don't even know how many times I have loaded the cases. I do not put an excessive flare on them, just enough to be detectable by my thumbnail, and I don't over crimp anything. In most cases less can actually be better. I only use enough to hold the bullet in place through functioning, or several cylinders full in my revolvers.

It's good your finding out these things, and I can say that your on the right track. The more inspection you do up front the less weird issues you have later on.

41 Mag, thanks for the history lesson. It always helps newer reloaders when we get some historical information to put things into perspective. By now I have realized there is a big difference in the brass, and I can feel it especially when I do the sizing. This is why I am glad I started with a single stage press so that I can feel the differences between the brass during most of the stages.

 

[gamestalker]

I notice them right away cause I use a completely different loading process that doesn't involve belling, but instead just chamfering. The chamfering tool will catch on the bad spot, dead give away.

GS

 

[vaalpens]

I notice them right away cause I use a completely different loading process that doesn't involve belling, but instead just chamfering. The chamfering tool will catch on the bad spot, dead give away.

GS

gamestalker, thanks for the input. I have seen a few loaders out there indicate they do chamfering. So, how many times can you chamfer brass before it is not usable anymore. I assume you remove a little bit of brass every time you chamfer.

 

[J-Bar]

This is a useful thread.

I check for splits at least two ways.

I have a big Ott Light over my reloading table. Before putting the brass in the press for decapping/resizing I inspect the rim by shining the light on it. A good rim will look like a solid bright circle. Even tiny splits show up as a break in the ring.

Even though I reload on a Dillon 550, I take the belled/charged cases off at the third station and put them in a 50-round tray. After filling the tray I inspect each one for powder and splits rims that might have been caused by belling.

It takes time, but I don't have squibs or splits during a match. Worth the trouble to me.

 

[vaalpens]

This is a useful thread.

I check for splits at least two ways.

I have a big Ott Light over my reloading table. Before putting the brass in the press for decapping/resizing I inspect the rim by shining the light on it. A good rim will look like a solid bright circle. Even tiny splits show up as a break in the ring.

Even though I reload on a Dillon 550, I take the belled/charged cases off at the third station and put them in a 50-round tray. After filling the tray I inspect each one for powder and splits rims that might have been caused by belling.

It takes time, but I don't have squibs or splits during a match. Worth the trouble to me.

J-Bar, thanks for the tip how you check for splits. Your tips is something I will incorporate in my process also since I inspect the loaded powder for a 50-round tray under a light. All I need to add is to also focus on the rims one final time to ensure I don't have any splits. It is always these simple things we can add to the process to make things safer.