turkish mauser extraction problems

[ldlfh7]

I have an old turk mauser which functions great and is quite accurate however, when I fire and open the bolt, the spent casing remains in the action. It is not kicked out like you would expect on any bolt rifle. I have done some research and sounds like it may be the extractor. I have 2 questions:

1- Does this sound like an extractor gone bad?
2- If so, is this something I should attempt to fix (not a gunsmith but have stripped the rifle several times).

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[rcmodel]

Nothing to do with the extractor if it is coming out of the chamber.

If it is coming out of the chamber and staying on the bolt?
You have a broken ejector.

Without knowing if you have a Model 93 or a Model 98, I can't point you to a part for it.

The ejector is the flat blade that projects though the slot in the bolt face when the bolt is open all the way back.
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/images/mauser_swede_94_ejector_box.jpg

If the case is staying stuck in the chamber, that is an extractor issue.

http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/images/mauser_98_extractor.jpg

rc

 

[ldlfh7]

RC -
The casing stays attached to the bolt and comes out of the chamber so I am guessing this is an ejector issue. Is this an easy repair?

 

[rcmodel]

Yes, very easy if you can find the part.

Look at the left rear of the receiver where the bolt release is located.

One screw holds it to the receiver.
Take that screw out and the bolt release box and ejector will fall out in your hand.

It may be missing, broken, or just stuck down with old dried grease & crud.

See the link to the photo I posted above.
The flat thing sticking out of the bolt release box is the ejector.

rc

 

[ldlfh7]

RC -
Thanks for the info. Any easy way to tell what model it is? I got it on a trade and only know it is from 1939.

 

[rcmodel]

If you are sure of the date it is a M48, 98 Mauser.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M48_Mauser

But the first thing to do is take it out and clean the gunk out of it, then put it back in and see if it works.

rc

 

[NCsmitty]

If it's a Turk Mauser, here's a link to possibly identify the version.

http://www.turkmauser.com/


NCsmitty

 

[Twmaster]

If it's a Turkish M38 it's a copy of a 98 Mauser and the ejector from any 98 compatible will work. The link RC posted is to a Yugo M48.

 

[rcmodel]

Oops!!

I need to get my glasses checked!

rc

 

[Jim K]

"Turkish Model 1938" is a tricky description. In the late 1930's, Turkey decided to upgrade all its rifles to a more modern appearance, basically that of the German K.98k, which at the time was considered the most modern military rifle in the world. They called all the upgraded rifles the Model 1938. That included the old Model 1889 Mausers, the 1893 Mausers, and an assortment of contract and ex-German military rifles, mostly the Kar. 98a, which was a lightweight short 98 type rifle with a small receiver ring (called the "small ring Turk" by collectors).

I think it likely that the rifle in question is the latter, and if so, a standard Mauser Model 1898 ejector will fit and work OK. But a picture would help.

Jim

 

[ldlfh7]

I am sure of the date of 1939. I took the ejector out and cleaned it up real good and it still fails to eject the empty casing. Anyone know where I may find an ejector?

 

[Clark]

The actual ejector is a piece of sheet metal with a hole in it.

Much more complicated is the spring the pushes it into the bolt.

You must get your face in there while it fails to eject and see what is going wrong.

 

[Elkins45]

Can you possibly post a picture of the part for us to see? Preferably both in and out of the gun.

 

[rcmodel]

I took the ejector out and cleaned it up real good and it still fails to eject the empty casing.

I hate to ask?

But are you fully opening the bolt all the way to the rear of the stroke each time??

If not, the empty case will not be ejected.

At full bolt travel, the spring loaded ejector blade protrudes through the slot in the left bolt lug, and the rearward traveling case rim hooked to the extractor impacts it.

That is what ejects it.

If you are used to spring & plunger style ejectors in the bolt face like many newer designs use?
They eject as soon as the case mouth clears the front of the receiver ring or ejection port and the plunger flips them out.

Mauser's, and all other rifles based on the Mauser design don't work that way.

You open the bolt like you mean it and they will throw cases off in the weeds.

You ease it open real slow, and they will fall out in your hand.

Slower still and they will most likely stay in the action so you have to pick them out with your fingers.

rc

 

[ldlfh7]

Yes I am opening the bolt all the way. I have slammed the bolt back with some force (all the way back) and experience the same outcome. I will post a pic later to hopefully get some answers.

 

[rcmodel]

Take the bolt out and look inside the rear receiver ring.

Is the ejector blade in there and sticking out to the right into the receiver about 1/3 way across??

If so, reach in and push it in with your finger.
Is it spring loaded out against your finger??

If no to the first question, the ejector is broke.

If it is there but loose and not spring loaded out, the spring in the bolt release box is broken.



It might also be that the bolt is sloppy in the receiver raceways and opening so far the slot in the bolt lug is binding the ejector and keeping it from popping into position behind the case rim.

If you see any wear or drag marks on the ejector blade?
Look for burs inside the bolt lug slot and clean them up with a flat needle file so it won't bind the ejector when opened too far.

rc