Update on ported 629-3
- Thread starter Hollerpoint
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Hollerpoint
Member
Went through a checklist and here's where it failed. The hammer won't pull back with the cylinder opened.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It can't unless you hold the thumb latch fully to the rear.
It is working as it is supposed to if you can't cock or pull the trigger with the cylinder open.
You should not be able too.
Check the ejector rod housing and see if it is coming unscrewed.
(Left hand thread)
rc
It is working as it is supposed to if you can't cock or pull the trigger with the cylinder open.
You should not be able too.
Check the ejector rod housing and see if it is coming unscrewed.
(Left hand thread)
rc
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2002
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Of course the hand won't pull back if the cylinder is out. That's inherent in the design. The bolt (that inside thingy that locks the cylinder to the frame) blocks the rearward rotation of the hammer. Once the cylinder is in, the bolt is pushed back, allowing the hammer to be rotated. So, the issue is no issue.
As to the wobble, the hand isn't rotating the cylinder enough for its complete rotation. This is called follow-up. You might need a wider hand or in the worse case, to have the extractor peened out. This should only be done by a gunsmith or an armorer trained in S&W revolvers.
As to the wobble, the hand isn't rotating the cylinder enough for its complete rotation. This is called follow-up. You might need a wider hand or in the worse case, to have the extractor peened out. This should only be done by a gunsmith or an armorer trained in S&W revolvers.
Hollerpoint
Member
Ejector rod housing is tight. How much wobble is acceptable when hammer is pulled back? I'm beginning to think the factory reloads may be too hot that I have on hand. 180 hornady, 20.0 g of 800x, 1700fps are what are on the box. They are sticky coming out. Maybe I'll try some lighter loads. I have a s&w 27-2 3.5" and it isn't close to being as smooth or as light on s/a trigger pull. I want to use this thing.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Mercy!
18.9 grains 800x is a MAX load with a 180 grain XTP according to Hornady manual.
If you are getting sticky extraction they are definitely too hot for your gun!!
rc
Hollerpoint
Member
I'll get the box and post the reloaders website. Could that hot load cause the problem?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If the cases are expanding so much they are hard to extract, yes.
They have to contract enough to slide back in the chambers after firing so the cylinder is free to rotate to the next round.
If they are so expanded tight they stay pressed against the recoil shield and can't slip back foreword in the chambers?
The cylinder will be hard to rotate.
Your symptom of the first three shots being OK, then it getting hard to turn is exactly what would happen.
Open the cylinder and look at the recoil shield.
Note the cut-away section on the left to allow room for the cylinder to open.
Then notice the little ramp leading up to the flat surface of the rest of it.
The first three empty's are free to rotate in that cut-away area without touching the recoil shield much at all.
Then when you start cocking for the forth shot, the little ramp is trying to force the first of the empty's back in the chamber as the cylinder rotates.
If they are expanded tight and won't slip back in, the lockwork can't exert enough force to push them all the way back in the holes.
Regardless of all that?
Your loads are over max and I would not shoot any more of them in a Model 29/629.
The loads might be O.K. in a Ruger Super Blackhawk.
But your Model 629 is not a Super Blackhawk!
rc
They have to contract enough to slide back in the chambers after firing so the cylinder is free to rotate to the next round.
If they are so expanded tight they stay pressed against the recoil shield and can't slip back foreword in the chambers?
The cylinder will be hard to rotate.
Your symptom of the first three shots being OK, then it getting hard to turn is exactly what would happen.
Open the cylinder and look at the recoil shield.
Note the cut-away section on the left to allow room for the cylinder to open.
Then notice the little ramp leading up to the flat surface of the rest of it.
The first three empty's are free to rotate in that cut-away area without touching the recoil shield much at all.
Then when you start cocking for the forth shot, the little ramp is trying to force the first of the empty's back in the chamber as the cylinder rotates.
If they are expanded tight and won't slip back in, the lockwork can't exert enough force to push them all the way back in the holes.
Regardless of all that?
Your loads are over max and I would not shoot any more of them in a Model 29/629.
The loads might be O.K. in a Ruger Super Blackhawk.
But your Model 629 is not a Super Blackhawk!
rc
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- Joined
- Dec 19, 2002
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- 22,551
You're switching problems on me.
First it was the cylinder not fully rotating and manual rotation was required to lock up the cylinder.
Now it's wobble with the hammer rotated back.
Which is it?
Second issue: spent cartridge difficult to extract. Is that on all six cylinders or just the three?
First it was the cylinder not fully rotating and manual rotation was required to lock up the cylinder.
Now it's wobble with the hammer rotated back.
Which is it?
Second issue: spent cartridge difficult to extract. Is that on all six cylinders or just the three?
Hollerpoint
Member
After reaching 95 degrees today, I was trying the pistol again and this time it took a glove for my hand to be able to push hard enough to eject the cases. I recognized overloaded ammo. After firing 3 rds I suspect the drag from over pressure caused too much friction and made it bind on the last 3 shots. After buying some Remington umc today, all problems have been solved by lower pressure ammo. I had been imagining problems that did not exist after watching midwayusa's youtube video on how to inspect a revolver. 50 rounds and not a hiccup. Smoothest Smith I've ever fired. The single action trigger weight must be less than a pound though, basically it fires if you touch the trigger.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Cock it and try the push-off test by pushing against the back of the hammer with your thumb..
If you can push on it and make it snap the hammer?
You have another real problem this time.
Someone screwed up the trigger sear / hammer notch trying to do a trigger job on it.
rc
Hollerpoint
Member
Uh oh. Yep. Now what RC? Ballpark how much $ to fix. I have a certified s&w repair/warranty center within 70 miles.
BBBBill
Member
First ensure that the strain screw (in the front side of the grip, under the grips is they cover the front strap) is fully tightened. If that doesn't solve it, get it to a real smith that understands and is qualified to work on S&W revolvers.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I don't know how much.
But it won't be free under warranty as someone messed with it.
Factory spec according to the S&W armorers manual is 3 1/4 pound Minimum.
4 pound Max.
With no push-off possible.
Since the gun has been modified, the warranty will not cover it.
However, you need to bite the bullet and get it fixed right by the certified repair center, whatever it costs.
I might go back to whoever you bought it from, and whine like a whipped dog.
Maybe they will help you out with the cost of repairing the unsafe gun they sold you!
rc
But it won't be free under warranty as someone messed with it.
Factory spec according to the S&W armorers manual is 3 1/4 pound Minimum.
4 pound Max.
With no push-off possible.
Since the gun has been modified, the warranty will not cover it.
However, you need to bite the bullet and get it fixed right by the certified repair center, whatever it costs.
I might go back to whoever you bought it from, and whine like a whipped dog.
Maybe they will help you out with the cost of repairing the unsafe gun they sold you!
rc
Hollerpoint
Member
The strain screw is tight.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
But it may have been ground off / shortened when they 'fixed' the trigger to make it lighter!
Take it to the mother-ship 70 miles away and get it all sorted out, Right!
rc
Take it to the mother-ship 70 miles away and get it all sorted out, Right!
rc
BBBBill
Member
Don't know what "mother ship" is 4 hours from Mexico, but S&W has been failing miserably on warranty work lately. This thread is only one of several that I've seen showing absolutely unacceptable work - http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=455795 And I've seen a couple first hand that were not any better.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I don't know either.
But, He Said he was within 70 miles of a factory warranty repair center.
Unlike S&W, Maybe they still employ some old grouchy gunsmith that has some idea of what he is doing?
I don't know where he is, because he won't tell us which way he is 4 hours from Mexico in which direction.
Cute, but not very specific for sure!
If he is four hours south of Mexico?
One of the drug cartel gunsmiths should be able to fix it.
If he is four hours east or west of Mexico, he is drowning.
If he is four hours north of Mexico he must be in the USA, in the south-west, where they still use revolvers.
So it's worth a shot!
They can't be any worse then the last guy that worked on it!!
rc
But, He Said he was within 70 miles of a factory warranty repair center.
Unlike S&W, Maybe they still employ some old grouchy gunsmith that has some idea of what he is doing?
I don't know where he is, because he won't tell us which way he is 4 hours from Mexico in which direction.
Cute, but not very specific for sure!
If he is four hours south of Mexico?
One of the drug cartel gunsmiths should be able to fix it.
If he is four hours east or west of Mexico, he is drowning.
If he is four hours north of Mexico he must be in the USA, in the south-west, where they still use revolvers.
So it's worth a shot!
They can't be any worse then the last guy that worked on it!!
rc
Hollerpoint
Member
Comanche, Tx. LSG mfg. I've only ever had The smith do rifle work for me but since we are acquainted maybe its somewhat up to his discretion as to what gets warrantied. He's a Remington warranty center also. Or maybe I should get on Numrich and order the parts I need for a home repair job.
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