What are good 22LR Revolvers

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Nobody has mentioned the Heritage Rough Rider yet so I will. For the $500.00 mentioned for S&W you can buy 3 Rough Riders, for the price of the Ruger you can buy 2 Rough Riders. I have owned the Ruger Single Six and I have shot a friends S&W and although they are nice guns I own a Rough Rider. Not quite as nicely finished but is accurate and has a nice trigger. Each to his own.

I quite understand. A little Rossi .22 Sportsman does me fine. NO, the DA trigger isn't great, but it's not exactly a self defense revolver. The SA is fantastic and the little revolver is VERY accurate. It's pretty easy to carry afield, too.

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Troopercopy.jpg

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This Colt Trooper Mark III shot well. Thumbnail at 11 yards.

Don't know what they are going for now, but, they do increase in value.

I think they use MIM parts, but, they are well made parts, and don't feel like the cheap stuff S&W used in my 360PD..

S
 
22revolvers001.jpg Top one is a Heritage Rough rider I bought 15 years ago, 2 cylinders and quite accurate out to 50m.The bottom one is a NAA 22m 1 5/8" barrel, havent taken it to the range yet but it is really like a fine piece of jewelry.It will become my bug, once I get some range time with it.
 
Sorry for my continued ignorance, but what is a pre-lock smith? Did they put some sort of lock on them now? Thanks.
-Mike
 
RG22. Lacking only in quality, accuracy, finish, and workmanship.

Or as one of my companions said after sampling the RG22's wares: "Ahhh...an excellent fighting wine! Notable only for the cheapness of its price!"

Ask someone on the forum...who'll admit they own one...to give it to you. Someone will do it...trust me.
 
.22 Revolver

H&R-great value! I have a Model 904, swing-out cylinder, slab-sided bull barrel, nice adj. sights. The DA is HEAVY but smooth, SA letoff is target grade! Nine shots, easy to reload, cost me around $200 or so. I also like my Ruger SS convertible-for snakes you can use the .22 mag cylinder and CCI shotshells. If you intend to get a Mod. 29 .44, I think your best choice is to go with one of the S&W DA .22's, for ease of familiarity/handling.
 
Another excellent .22 Revolver for the money would be an older model Charter Arms Pathfinder (1980 or so) with a 4" or 6" barrel. They are not readily available though because those that have them tend to hang on to them. If you really want to reach out and take care of a venomous snake the Ruger New Model Single Six NR-9 Convertible (.22 LR / .22 WMR) with 9.5" barrel will fill the bill quite nicely. :D


:evil:
 
"Yep."

Can you please explain further...what kind of lock, what is it supposed to do/lock? Thanks.
-Mike
 
If you look at current production Smith & Wesson revolvers, you will notice a hole on the frame immediately back from the trigger. Smith provides a key with the purchase of a revolver which allows you to lock or unlock the trigger. It's called a trigger lock. It was developed as a result of the Clinton Admin "threatening" Smith & Wesson and S&W caved to their nudging. This was a child proofing thing. There is no national requirement for a trigger lock of any kind on a handgun. I understand that some states require them now; places like NJ and MD, I believe. (May be wrong on the states.) There are probably more. Ruger provides a lock with their guns, but it sort of a padlock with a cable that you add and lock.

The deal is that if you keep a firearm handy for self defense, no body I know ever locks their guns. Can't you see looking for the key in the dark with a burgler already inside your home up to no good.

Some people hate the locks. Others don't care. I'm in the "other" group. I have not had a lock failure (where the revolver locks up usually due to recoil), but others have.

Many people were very upset with S&W over the caving issue to the Clintons and the addition of the lock. Many stopped buying their guns at that time and I understand their sales dropped significantly.

Pre-lock guns such as the S&W Model 17 and 18 (K-22's) do not have a lock because the models were dropped prior to the lock being added to Smith's guns. Smith shifted to manufacturing pretty much only stainless steel and lightweight revolves (aluminum alloy or titanium) and no longer manufactures the old blue steel or nickel plated revolvers. There are still a few limited edition revolvers made in blue steel such as the Model 29 Classic (?) and the older Model 57 Mountain Gun. There are others. The model 617 has the lock.
 
This is my first post and I'm sure I'm going to catch hell, but here goes. I purchased a Taurus 941 Blue 2". I have owned a S&W 645 and 4506, Taurus PT58HC and 24/7 (45), Ruger (Old Model) Vaquero 45LC, Beretta 96D, Walther P22. These were all bought, shot, and sold since August 2006. After reading this: http://www.gunowners.org/a032100.htm
I doubt you could give me any Smith & Wesson product, even gave my two knives away.

In regards to the Taurus, stiff trigger on DA (+16 pound pull), I bought it on a Saturday (paid $270) and shot it on Sunday. 100 rounds of Federal 40 grain ammo. I had about 5 misfires in all, was able to get them to work on the next pass. At 25 yards I made three shots that ended up looking like a lower case "y". Yes, a 2" barrel, 25 yards, measured about 3/8". Taurus has a lifetime warranty, about half the price of Shoot & Wound. For snakes, varmints, and plinking I would recommend either the 4" or 5". As I said I purchased the blue, I would recommend the stainless (don't go Ultralight). I removed the grips, purchased Pachmayrs. I had a small bit of rust under the grip already. So for the few extra bucks up front, you will have a better looking pistol down the road.
 
Is that H&R top-break revolver with a longish barrel (don't remember the model number... 99?) good enough for Bullseye target shooting? I currently shoot a Ruger .22/45 in a .22 pistol league, but I really like revolvers better.
 
This is my first post and I'm sure I'm going to catch hell, but here goes. I purchased a Taurus 941 Blue 2". I have owned a S&W 645 and 4506, Taurus PT58HC and 24/7 (45), Ruger (Old Model) Vaquero 45LC, Beretta 96D, Walther P22. These were all bought, shot, and sold since August 2006. After reading this: http://www.gunowners.org/a032100.htm
I doubt you could give me any Smith & Wesson product, even gave my two knives away.

In regards to the Taurus, stiff trigger on DA (+16 pound pull), I bought it on a Saturday (paid $270) and shot it on Sunday. 100 rounds of Federal 40 grain ammo. I had about 5 misfires in all, was able to get them to work on the next pass. At 25 yards I made three shots that ended up looking like a lower case "y". Yes, a 2" barrel, 25 yards, measured about 3/8". Taurus has a lifetime warranty, about half the price of Shoot & Wound. For snakes, varmints, and plinking I would recommend either the 4" or 5". As I said I purchased the blue, I would recommend the stainless (don't go Ultralight). I removed the grips, purchased Pachmayrs. I had a small bit of rust under the grip already. So for the few extra bucks up front, you will have a better looking pistol down the road.
 
My first handgun was a Model 18 S & W and since I only looked at
page 1 of this thread I'll say this about the 18
it was the same sights as the S & W Model 15
Combat Masterpiece in .38 Spcl. The Model 18
had the same plain ramp front sight and adj. rear
sight.with plain notch blade. It weighed more than
the Model 15 at 38 oz. because the .22 holes in the
cylinder left more material. I always wanted the 6 inch
Model 17 - so the 18 is long gone and I now have
a 617 - 6" Bbl. with 10 shot cyl. At 45 oz it is as heavy
as my 625 5" Bbl. in .45 ACP/AR. But the 617 as my
gun dealer sez, people hold on to them because
they're so much fun to shoot and accurate

Funny though I want a shorter barrel now on
the 617 - so it will fit in the shoulder rig when I want
to take it instead of the 625, a 5.25 inch
barrel would make it the same sight radius and
it would fit.

Get the most you can for your money and keep it

Oh, the Hi-Standard 999 Top-Break - Yeah I had a
buddy with one when I had the Model 18 - I stood to
his left ONCE dang thing spit lead out the side of the
barrel/cylinder gap - lead burns when it's spit like
that.

DOn't go cheap.
 
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