jcwit
member
Not recommended, but do it if you wish, your pain if something goes wrong. Since when do you believe everything you read?
What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
Not recommended, but do it if you wish, your pain if something goes wrong. Since when do you believe everything you read?
Steel Talon
Member
Just replace with another O ring from the harware store.
FWIW..
I wouldnt recogmend the shell holder trick. Years ago I saw picture of a guy who tried this and ultimately grenaded the round as he was striking. The cartridge slipped a bit logging the primer under the edge of the shell holder.Setting the primer off.
His 2 boys were with him in the garage close by watching. they werent hit. but dad took a bit of brass and plastic
NWDave
Member
37 Pages in one sitting.
Sure is a lot of great suggestions. I have one to contribute. For reloaders who use Sonic Cleaners. I personally use a Hornady Sonic Cleaner. Works great with the One Shot Cleaner. When I'm done with the sonic portion, I dump them into a plastic "shoe box" container with clean water to be rinsed off. I use a large cat litter scoop (new one, of course
) to swirl the brass around in the shoe box, then scoop out with the litter scoop and deposit on Dehydrator trays. Yep, everyone seems to have one or can find one cheap, since they were popular several years ago. Now you can re-purpose it for brass drying. I set the temp for 90 degrees and run the timer for about 2 hours. (Probably longer than I need but, this is suppose to be a leisurely pursuit, right?) As for the range brass, first thing I do is dump it into a wash pan, add hot water, swish around to get the major crud off, move to a 1 x 8 x 24" long pine board with 2" wood screws screwed in. Set the brass, open end down of course. Let air dry. Crude but adequate. Clean enough to sort anyway.
Thanks to all the posters. There's a wealth of information in these pages.
~Dave
Sure is a lot of great suggestions. I have one to contribute. For reloaders who use Sonic Cleaners. I personally use a Hornady Sonic Cleaner. Works great with the One Shot Cleaner. When I'm done with the sonic portion, I dump them into a plastic "shoe box" container with clean water to be rinsed off. I use a large cat litter scoop (new one, of course
) to swirl the brass around in the shoe box, then scoop out with the litter scoop and deposit on Dehydrator trays. Yep, everyone seems to have one or can find one cheap, since they were popular several years ago. Now you can re-purpose it for brass drying. I set the temp for 90 degrees and run the timer for about 2 hours. (Probably longer than I need but, this is suppose to be a leisurely pursuit, right?) As for the range brass, first thing I do is dump it into a wash pan, add hot water, swish around to get the major crud off, move to a 1 x 8 x 24" long pine board with 2" wood screws screwed in. Set the brass, open end down of course. Let air dry. Crude but adequate. Clean enough to sort anyway.Thanks to all the posters. There's a wealth of information in these pages.
~Dave
Tom609
Member
This would definitely be a "little thing," but I was looking for crayons, markers, stickers and other drawing supplies for the grandson at Office Max and there on the shelf were 100-pack foot-long pipe cleaners for $2! Made my day
1SOW
Member
POWDER SWEEP for the LEE PRO/Regular Discs.
I have often seen several 'pieces' of powder laying on the top front edge of the disc 'after' dropping the powder load. It's a "small" leak .
I fastened a very small (3/16" x 1") piece of thin leather to the powder hopper immediately above the disc hole. It hangs down to just make contact with the disc. It "sweeps/pushes" the powder into the hole every time the disc is moved forward.
I haven't seen any leakage there for the 150 rds I loaded today. Verdict is still out on the benefit, but it took 10 mins. to do.
I have often seen several 'pieces' of powder laying on the top front edge of the disc 'after' dropping the powder load. It's a "small" leak .
I fastened a very small (3/16" x 1") piece of thin leather to the powder hopper immediately above the disc hole. It hangs down to just make contact with the disc. It "sweeps/pushes" the powder into the hole every time the disc is moved forward.
I haven't seen any leakage there for the 150 rds I loaded today. Verdict is still out on the benefit, but it took 10 mins. to do.
1SOW
Member
oops
nojoke
Member
Repost since COX no longer will host my photos....
:banghead:
A bit of scrap wood is used as a jig to assure a perpendicular hole is made. The jig was prepared with a drill press.
Pilot hole first then opened further to 7/16's
Installing a Dillon powder check into a Lock n Load:
:banghead:A bit of scrap wood is used as a jig to assure a perpendicular hole is made. The jig was prepared with a drill press.
Pilot hole first then opened further to 7/16's
Installing a Dillon powder check into a Lock n Load:
Last edited:
Willfully Armed
Member
Swisher Sweet cigarillo boxes are awesome for brass storage. They fit perfectly in my storage cabinet.
Dillon 650s load a whole lot faster than a Rockchucker.
Gunsafes are never big enough.
Glock triggers can be made as nice as a 1911 trigger. Much to the dismay of 1911 fanboys. This is my big project from this year. Eliminated take up. Eliminated overtravel, resets in about 1/32". Trigger pull is about 2#. Glockworx z3 connector and competition spring kit(stock trigger spring) Polish all contact points with Dremel and flitz until mirror shine. Reshaping and polishing the sear surface and firing pin safety tang. I was going to eliminate the firing pin safety altogether, but in the name of SAFETY, have decided to leave it be. Drilled and tapped the trigger bar for a 5/26" set screw...this controls takeup. Lone wolf short reset trigger housing.
Its not a 1911 trigger, but its the best a pivot trigger can be.
Dillon 650s load a whole lot faster than a Rockchucker.
Gunsafes are never big enough.
Glock triggers can be made as nice as a 1911 trigger. Much to the dismay of 1911 fanboys. This is my big project from this year. Eliminated take up. Eliminated overtravel, resets in about 1/32". Trigger pull is about 2#. Glockworx z3 connector and competition spring kit(stock trigger spring) Polish all contact points with Dremel and flitz until mirror shine. Reshaping and polishing the sear surface and firing pin safety tang. I was going to eliminate the firing pin safety altogether, but in the name of SAFETY, have decided to leave it be. Drilled and tapped the trigger bar for a 5/26" set screw...this controls takeup. Lone wolf short reset trigger housing.
Its not a 1911 trigger, but its the best a pivot trigger can be.
grandutefan
Member
Great thread!
We don't have a range where I live in SE Utah (Moab) so we just go out in the desert to shoot. When I go shooting I take a plastic 20ish gallon tote with the hinged removable lid, with a 15'x15' tarp folded in it. We spread it out and position semi-auto shooters so the brass lands on the tarp, otherwise it get buried in the sand almost immediately. Revolver shooters dump their cases directly into the tote and every 10 minutes or so we do a brass patrol to pick up spent rifle and semi-auto brass. When we are done we shake off the tarp, fold it and put it on top of the brass where i then take it home a sort it.
I find Foldgers coffee containers very handy for keeping brass sorted into cleaned, unprimed, primed condition for each caliber.
I always seem to find an uncapped amber prescription bottle handy on my bench while reloading.
We don't have a range where I live in SE Utah (Moab) so we just go out in the desert to shoot. When I go shooting I take a plastic 20ish gallon tote with the hinged removable lid, with a 15'x15' tarp folded in it. We spread it out and position semi-auto shooters so the brass lands on the tarp, otherwise it get buried in the sand almost immediately. Revolver shooters dump their cases directly into the tote and every 10 minutes or so we do a brass patrol to pick up spent rifle and semi-auto brass. When we are done we shake off the tarp, fold it and put it on top of the brass where i then take it home a sort it.
I find Foldgers coffee containers very handy for keeping brass sorted into cleaned, unprimed, primed condition for each caliber.
I always seem to find an uncapped amber prescription bottle handy on my bench while reloading.
Samari Jack
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2010
- Messages
- 278
file title
I was trying to do a copy/paste of some of these tips to a document. In typing a name for the file I hit the i instead of the u. They are side by side on my key board. Came out "gin" tips. I don't even like gin. Freudian slip I guess.
I was trying to do a copy/paste of some of these tips to a document. In typing a name for the file I hit the i instead of the u. They are side by side on my key board. Came out "gin" tips. I don't even like gin. Freudian slip I guess.
danbowkley
Member
Rather than have a trash can or bucket on the floor to catch spent primers from my LnL-AP press, I took a cup holder designed to hook into a car door's window slot and cut off the hook part. Then I took an empty one pound Hodgdon powder can and drilled a hole in the lid big enough for the spent primer tube to fit into. I screwed the cup holder to the front of my bench, stuck the powder can into it, and then stuck the hose into the top of the can. Trim the hose so maybe an inch of it is in the can when the ram is all the way up, and you'll never have a primer embedded in your heel again. Pics next time I'm home.
nojoke
Member
Some of the digital SLR camera's have "live view" and HDMI outputs.
I purchased a cheap macro 50mm off e-bay and a cheap screen with HDMI input.
What does this give you? A very clear high resolution microscope to check things over if you feel the need.
I'm using a Canon 60D here. It's a nice camera to own but twice as nice to check to ammo with. There is also a button on the camera to zoom in by 5x and 10x....that really brings things in tight!
I purchased a cheap macro 50mm off e-bay and a cheap screen with HDMI input.
What does this give you? A very clear high resolution microscope to check things over if you feel the need.
I'm using a Canon 60D here. It's a nice camera to own but twice as nice to check to ammo with. There is also a button on the camera to zoom in by 5x and 10x....that really brings things in tight!
If you are talking about die lock rings Hornady has them on their web site for 4 bucks. Not sure if this is what you are wanting but they look like the pics and are not near as thick as the ones you are showing.How about contacting the original manufacturer? Climax Metal Products: (800) 542-6552
Cdstang, really like the collars - may get some stainless steel collars for my dies.
Black Oxide Plated Steel Collar - http://catalog.climaxmetal.com/item...stc-series/istc-087-14?&bc=100|1001|1282|1155
Stainless Steel Collar - http://catalog.climaxmetal.com/item...c-series/istc-087-14-s?&bc=100|1001|1282|1155
http://www.hornady.com/store/Sure-Loc-Lock-Ring-1-Each
The Coz
That is a nice bit of work. I went to Dillion's site and found it but did not give much of a discription. Does it check for no powder and too much powder both? Also I see the the blue "thing" does that make a sound when the powder is incorrect? I have a powder cop from Hornady that checks for too much powder but nothing else and has no sound.Repost since COX no longer will host my photos....
A bit of scrap wood is used as a jig to assure a perpendicular hole is made. The jig was prepared with a drill press.
Pilot hole first then opened further to 7/16's
Installing a Dillon powder check into a Lock n Load:
TIA for the info.
The Coz
Messy bullet lube when reloading
I live in AZ and it gets hot here in the summer Duh. When reloading with cast bullets the lube get a little soft and gooey (My loading room it not kept very cool), if I put them in a bag and in the fridge for a little while it hardens them up and cuts down on the mess. Hope this is not a repeat as I did not read all the posts.
The Coz.
I live in AZ and it gets hot here in the summer Duh. When reloading with cast bullets the lube get a little soft and gooey (My loading room it not kept very cool), if I put them in a bag and in the fridge for a little while it hardens them up and cuts down on the mess. Hope this is not a repeat as I did not read all the posts.
The Coz.
gathert
Member
Make sure to check the bullet seating die every once in a while with cast bullets. The lube will congregate in the die sometimes and seat the bullet funky or farther down than you want it.
My homemade cheap chamfer/deburring drill adapter. Find a socket that will fit your chamfer/deburring tool. I am using a 9/16 socket.
If your socket extension is too big for your drill, you can buy a hex drill socket extension from Harbor Freight for $3.00 http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-hex-drill-socket-extensions-42191.html
If your socket extension is too big for your drill, you can buy a hex drill socket extension from Harbor Freight for $3.00 http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-hex-drill-socket-extensions-42191.html
Fatelvis
Member
NS bushing dies are very versitile!
I've been using my 7BR s-type Redding die to neck size all different cartridges, just by changing the bushing and resetting the die distance from the shellholder. Trick is to use a die that has a big body and short (squatty) length. It serves well to hold the bushing, and not touch the case anywhere else. Give it a try!!
I've been using my 7BR s-type Redding die to neck size all different cartridges, just by changing the bushing and resetting the die distance from the shellholder. Trick is to use a die that has a big body and short (squatty) length. It serves well to hold the bushing, and not touch the case anywhere else. Give it a try!!
Innovative
Member
Fatelvis ..........
Check the run-out on those neck sized cases .......
Check the run-out on those neck sized cases .......
Fatelvis
Member
Inno, honestly I don't have the equipment to do so. The best I can do is roll them on a flat surface!
They have been shooting great! I just figured that the bushing is held straight in line with the centerline of the case head, just as if the die was for the correct cartridge, and "straight is straight", right? Every part (except the bushing) of a correct NS bushing die doesnt touch the brass either, so really what would the difference be?
Of course this is just my theory. Thanks for your input though, that is always appreciated!
LiveLife
Member
Update to catching pesky primers (Post #850)
I made another change to my primer cutout cover from post #47. Although the cut aluminum can cover worked well for small spent primers, when I was doing load development with slower burning powders, often with dirtier lower powder charges, the large spent primers with more black fouling clogged up the hole in the ram.
Problem: This is the old cover that got inserted inside the hole in the ram (red arrows). Because the cover was inserted inside the hole, it reduced the inside diameter of the hole and was prone to clogging large primers and required frequent cover removal/cleaning.
Solution: Corners of the cover were cut and I also trimmed the bottom of cover - Dimensions now 1.5" x 0.75".
Cover is now inserted outside of the hole in the ram cutout (green arrows) so even dirty black fouled large primers won't clog the hole. Also note wider opening at the bottom of cover.
When inserting the cover, slowly lower the ram to be sure the bottom of the cover clears the base of the press (blue arrows).
With the cover outside of the hole, I am catching 100% of pesky spent primers without having to clear the ram hole. They all continue to fall into the collection hole of the press base.
My pesky spent primer problem is now resolved!
I made another change to my primer cutout cover from post #47. Although the cut aluminum can cover worked well for small spent primers, when I was doing load development with slower burning powders, often with dirtier lower powder charges, the large spent primers with more black fouling clogged up the hole in the ram.
Problem: This is the old cover that got inserted inside the hole in the ram (red arrows). Because the cover was inserted inside the hole, it reduced the inside diameter of the hole and was prone to clogging large primers and required frequent cover removal/cleaning.
Solution: Corners of the cover were cut and I also trimmed the bottom of cover - Dimensions now 1.5" x 0.75".
Cover is now inserted outside of the hole in the ram cutout (green arrows) so even dirty black fouled large primers won't clog the hole. Also note wider opening at the bottom of cover.
When inserting the cover, slowly lower the ram to be sure the bottom of the cover clears the base of the press (blue arrows).
With the cover outside of the hole, I am catching 100% of pesky spent primers without having to clear the ram hole. They all continue to fall into the collection hole of the press base.
My pesky spent primer problem is now resolved!
When I bought my 10 gage I realized it would be a good idea to reload the shells because they are expensive to buy. I did not have the money for a press so I looked at my dads old lee hand reloader (12 gage) and figured out how it works. I went to the garage, found a funnel that would help recrimp the shell and used a hammer and rod to recrimp the shell. The end of the rod also serves as a primer seater with the right sized whole drilled in it. A tapered rod removes the primers. Anyone with a drill and a grinder could easily make the rods. I had a lathe so I made some for my 410 shot gun shells too. Just somthing to think about when money is tight. All shells feed through my pump shot guns pretty good. Sometime I over crimp and have to put a lil bit of wax on the ends to keep shot from spilling out, no biggie.
Attachments
HEAVY METAL 1
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2005
- Messages
- 418
Painting your reloading bench white makes it easier to see whatever you have on it. Until I actually saw this myself I couldn't believe what a difference it makes.
