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What do you do when your gun gets wet in the rain?

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So as I was shooting today it started pouring down. I shot a few more minutes, and then left. I wiped the gun off right then, and when I got home, I wiped it down with CLP. Is this the proper method? What do you guys do?
 
As long as your not near salt air just wipe it down and put in in a warm dry place. It will dry off and be fine. Clean it like you normally do. If you are near salt water like I am sometimes, and my guns get covered in salty water I hose it off with fresh water from the hose then wipe it down, put it in a warm dry place, and clean it as usual.
 
Yep a good air compressor with a water filter doesn't hurt either. Have been out and away for a day in a miserable South Texas down poor. Didn't want to hold the AR due to lightening; it was bad. After I got cleaned up and dried I just took the air and blew out the moisture and gave her a good breakfree clp bath and clean. That was 2 months ago but I haven't found any rust as of yet.
 
I give it a good flushing with WD-40 and blow out any excess with compressed air. Spray with a shot of Rem-oil and repeat with the compressed air and wipe down. More times than not though I will do a complete tear down and clean/lube.
 
Just be sure and don't put it in a case when wet. Just stand it up against the seat for the ride home. It doesn't take long to develop rust spots if you put a wet gun in a case. I'm talking like a matter of an hour. I know because.........ummmm......many years ago I used to know a young, stupid guy.
 
Well, many years ago, guns were wood stocked, and all the parts were carbon steel. Clean it, dry it, and oil it is required for them.

The some guy invented a gun that wasn't - it was forged aluminum, with composite stocks. The only parts of steel exposed were the sights and barrels. They even came parkerized, which resists rust a lot. New owners were told they "didn't have to clean it."

The guys who grew up with firearms still knew they had to clean the action. The guys who had no clue did nothing. They took things too literally, because they didn't know better, and their supervisors didn't correct the mistake.

Point being, what kind of gun was being used? Because it makes a difference. Forged aluminum and composite furniture don't even need to be wiped down. Blued steel and open grain wood under the barrel and action need all the help they can get, that kind of construction and finish is why shiny new guns are sold every year - they are rust magnets that promote corrosion.

What's egregious is how many think they are better, and slave over the upkeep as if it's superior, when finishes that need literally zero upkeep are on the market and worth every penny.

Tradition is based on reasoning that is no longer valid. Like the daughter asking mom why see always cut the end of the roast off, it's not always obvious. Asking grandma and being told "because it would only fit the little roast pan I had" tends to clear things up.

I quit buying short roast pans and have little patience for tradition. It's why I bought a stainless 700 with composite stock. It never gets cleaned. I just run a patch down the bore after shooting.
 
Hold it barrel down or put a finger cot over the barrel. You do keep finger cots in your gun case don’t you?
 
Even stainless /composite guns have carbon steel internals and require cleaning and lube. Wiping off the surface is only a small part of cleaning/maintenance. I've seen very shiny guns on the surface but open the action and it is a bouquet of rust blooms.
 
I wipe it down with a rag moistened with Ballistol and let it stand where the air can circulate around it. If it got a real soaking, I'll field strip it and wipe it down. Guns aren't made from sugar and they won't melt in the rain. If we're talking about a military weapon, it was designed to withstand a lot more than getting caught in the rain. If your weapon is properly maintained in the first place, that rain should just be beading up and rolling off.
 
WaterDisplacement formula#40 for the action,

This is the one proper use of that particular stuff that is appropriate and recommended. That's exactly what it was made to do - push water off the parts.
 
After surviving a number of Camp Perry monsoons I got in the habit of bringing a blow dryer.

Remove action from the stock, wipe off the external parts and apply blow dryer.

Apply oil with a patch.

Reinstall action.
 
The "wipe, oil, dry" mantra is absolutely correct - with one caveat. Last November, last day of deer season, and I sat for 12.5 hours in a rain that I'll charitably describe as "an elephant pissing on a flat rock". My mid-70s manufactured Remington 700 BDL started to rust by 2pm. I ended up stripping it as completely as I could - removing the stock, trigger, sights, scope mount and base, and had a several hour project with 4x steel wool soaked in CLP to get her cleaned up!
 
Being a waterfowl enthusiast, I was constantly battling rust. I adhered to the "wipe, oil, leave out to dry" method. Usually didn't have problems except on choke tubes and trigger guards.

Anyway, I had some friends that went about it different ways. One guy wrapped his gun in camo tape and adhered to the "wipe, oil, dry" method. The other guy just stood his in the living room across from the fireplace every night.

Guess who had a rust problem at the end of the season? Yup, the camo tape guy.
 
I boil water and pore down the bore from the breach using a funnel.
Removes the salts in Mosins and gets the barrel good and warm.
Then clean and oil.
 
Last weekend I did a rifle match in the rain. Wet rifles went into wet cases, were pulled out to get wetter, and then recased. All along too about 4 hours.

To make it even better I was shooting corrosive ammo.

Stripped the rifle (in the rain) and cleaned it with soapy water. Dried (mostly) and oiled it.

When I got home (after another hour) I stripped and dried the rifle again. There was no rust. BSW
 
I would not used compressed air to clean any kind of polished surface. The compressed air will contain small quantities of dust and other particles that can harm the surface.
 
I would not used compressed air to clean any kind of polished surface. The compressed air will contain small quantities of dust and other particles that can harm the surface.
While that is a valid point if dealing with unfiltered air it isn't a problem at all with filtered(and dried) air. The compressed air is used on the internals where you can't reach with a wipe. In short uncontaminated compressed air causes no problems even on polished areas.
 
While that is a valid point if dealing with unfiltered air it isn't a problem at all with filtered(and dried) air. The compressed air is used on the internals where you can't reach with a wipe. In short uncontaminated compressed air causes no problems even on polished areas.

Your air compressor must be better than mine. If you have a good enough compressor, it's probably fine. Mine has a filter but nothing to dry the air, and I still get a fair amount of dust.
 
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