What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

Got the the bench and there was a Plastic bag holding a LOADED Pietta 1851, the tag said "Does not turn" and that's it. After pulling the cylinder, I noticed the caps were sitting high on the nipples, so I popped them off with my knife blade, and put some #11s on. Turned fine. So I unloaded it (gotta test fire them), cleaned it, and put it back together with a note to the customer to use either #11 caps, or get caps that fit the nipples on the gun.
 
Not a gunsmith repair but rather a nice inventory upgrade; a small bench top vise for holding small micrometers in particular. I find mic-ing small parts requires a third hand hat trick sometimes. Now, I can just hold the part in one and dial the micrometer with the other....no drama.
Micro-Mark's new offering all steel / anodized aluminum vise with a heavy non-skid base, almost one pound. Has precision fixture-like pin holes to hold round or odd shaped work pieces. $55.


IMG_0841Gunsmith Bench Top Vise Micro Mark Starrett Micrometers 04.19.24.jpg IMG_0844Gunsmith Bench Top Vise Micro Mark Starrett Micrometers 04.19.24.jpg IMG_0846Gunsmith Bench Top Vise Micro Mark Starrett Micrometers 04.19.24.jpg IMG_0856Gunsmith Bench Top Vise Micro Mark Starrett Micrometers 04.19.24.jpg
 
Not a gunsmith repair but rather a nice inventory upgrade; a small bench top vise for holding small micrometers in particular. I find mic-ing small parts requires a third hand hat trick sometimes. Now, I can just hold the part in one and dial the micrometer with the other....no drama.
Micro-Mark's new offering all steel / anodized aluminum vise with a heavy non-skid base, almost one pound. Has precision fixture-like pin holes to hold round or odd shaped work pieces. $55.


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What a useful tool!
 
The problem with the Dremel power plant, even the cordless, is that several thousand rpm is the slowest speed!
The way I get around that is to remove the switch/speed control and wire in a Singer Sewing machine control pedal. That gives you a truly full range of speed control. I'm sure you know but my diamond rotary files last a very long time since i can run them extremely slow. I hang the motor up and utilize a flex shaft and of course if I need both hands free, I chuck the handle up in my small vice. I replaced my first Dremel about 6 or so years ago with the then new Model 4000 and it's still "zipping" right along!! It gets used for hours daily as it's my most used tool in the shop (still using the original brushes!!!).
So, just thought I'd share that with you. Enjoyed this thread for a long time! Thanks to Troy for starting it!!

Mike
 
On Monday I chipped the extractor shooting my Helwan 9mm (Egyptian-made Beretta 1951). A quick visit to Jack First gun parts to order a $28.00 replacement, it was here by Wednesday.

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It took a bit of filing and finishing with 1000 grit wet-dry to get the new part to fit in the extractor groove in my slide.

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Once fitted, it fed-extracted my dummy rounds just fine. Hopefully I will escape to the range tomorrow to see how it functions with live ammo. 🙏

Stay safe.
Hows your locking block holding up? IIRC, that was a particular problem area on the Helwans.
 
Started out cleaning my 10/22, replaced the battery in my C-More Railway and loaded up 12 magazines so that I'm ready for tomorrow's Steel Challenge Match.

Mounted a new scope on my CZ 457 but I'm replacing it next week when my new scope comes from Natchez's. I've been shooting 6 X 18s but found a 4 X 24 with better turrets and better glass. Never heard of Veridian scopes before but I'm going to give it a try.
 
Interesting demonstration of the how a small tap wrench is Not a precision instrument. You may want to consider avoid using the T-wrench for small taps to avoid breaking them off in the work.

Joe Pie video is well done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0PBPGjd0Pc

I do use small Starrett tap wrench with a T-bar on the mill after drilling the hole. Perhaps not any more. I also
have fabricated the small cylinder thumb drive for small taps to avoid excessive torque the t-handles can impart on the taps, which then break!

Most spring-loaded tap guides are dual-ended, a radius-ed end and a tapered end to engage tap wrench or directly to the tap. The set screw on the tap guide is removable to switch ends of the guide and one can adjust the spring tension by extent of compressing the internal spring with the set screw.

I think knowledge about small details like this separate the pro's from the public at large.



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