What handgun would you recomend for .357 mag.?

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Ruger wins longevity? Hmmm....

Some of my Smith's are waaaay older than me, and Ike was President when I was born. I wouldn't hesitate to carry or shoot any of them...

Nothing at all against Rugers, but that's not a good reason...:confused:
 
I believe that for reliability and durability, Ruger is the best. It is not uncommon for Colts and 686s to go out of timing. Colts and Smiths are great guns, but if you are looking for reliability and durability, get a GP100. A good GP100 will require less maintenance than either a Python or 686. A good GP100 fits your requirements better than anything else that you mentioned in your post.

Ruger DA revolvers have a reputation for being the most robust revolvers on the market. They don't lose timing. You can shoot heavy, heavy loads without having to worry about wear and tear. Reloading manuals specifically talk about Ruger-only loads for a reason: other revolvers will not be able to handle a steady diet of Ruger-only loads. If you buy a Ruger, inspect it first. If the revolvers passes the typical inspection checks, buy it. My GP100 is the one material possession that I would never consider selling.

http://www.gunweek.com/2004/feature1010.html
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_149_24/ai_65910639
http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/448400adaed4f0a82d4961b5b2d91d8b-116.html
 
I would go with the Smith 686 plus 4'' Or 2.5 '' I have both , the 4 '' gets carried eveyday and yes it has the lock never had a problem with the lock on any of my smiths and they all have them ..

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I'm a big S&W fan. To that end, I'd suggest a nice used N frame like a 27 or a 28. The 27 is highly polished and has a checkered top strap, the 28 is the same gun with no checkering and a more utilitarian finish. Both share the same internals.

A used L frame - 686/586 would do the job nicely too. 686 is stainless, 586 is blued. The L frame is the same size as a GP 100. Nothing wrong with a GP 100, buy one if that's your preference.

I own both a 686 and a 627, they are sweet shooters to be sure.

I'd advise buying used as you can get a pre lock gun without compromise for less than a new gun with the lock.
 
heavy duty shooter: Ruger GP100 or Smith & Wesson 686

lighter duty shooter/more carried: used S&W 19 or 66

collector: mint Colt Python

heavy duty CCW: Ruger SP101

moderate duty CCW: S&W 60 or 640

'don't want the weight' CCW carry: really tiny & light S&W scandium framed snubbies
 
If you're going to buy new I'd suggest a 4" Ruger GP100.

If you're buying used I'd go with either the Ruger or a "non-lock" S*W 686 or 686+. The 4" Barrel is the "Jack Of All Trades Master Of None". It makes a good Home Defense, Concealed Carry and even can be used for Hunting, although I prefer my longer barrel for that.

Biker
 
Here's another vote for the S&W 686...I absolutely LOVE mine! I have the 686+ that gives me one extra shot, but I would love any of them. It just feels good in my hand! :D
 
Ehh my moms .22 smith and wesson leaves me questioning the reliability and quality of smith and wesson pistols. The .22 LR pistol keeps jamming even when I dissaemble and oil all of the pistol parts and you feed it federal ammunition. Ruger definately seems like the best chioce.
 
I have owned many DA revolvers in .357 magnum.
I must profess that I am a shooter and NOT an accummalator or collector.
I have guns to shoot.

This is what I have owned:
S&W
model 60 (2 1/8" .357)
642
586 4"
686 plus 4" (7 shot)
686 2 1/2" 6 shot
66 SS 4"
65 SS 4"

Colt
King Cobra SS 4"
Python Nickle 4"

Ruger
SP101 2.25" .357
SP101 2.25" .357 DAO
GP100 4" blue
GP100 6" blue
GP100 4" ss
GP100 6" ss
GP100 3" ss

This is NOT alot of experience compared to many here. But, My experience has found the Colts and S&Ws to go out of timing, develop endshake (not real bad; maybe a shim could have fixed it), or have excessive forcing cone erosion when shot with a diet of 125 grn .357 magnum ammo.

The L frames stand up well to the 158 grn loads. I had problems with the 7 shot 686 plus staying in time. Had to have it re-built 3 times. I now only own Rugers. MY SP101s and GP100s have never been out of timing yet.

All others went out of timing except two that I did not own long enough.

With .38 ammo the Smiths and Colts will be fine til the cows come home. But the 125 grn .357 mag load really can do a number on these guns.

Looking to add the 3 1/16" SP101 this year.
Sold the blued GP100s in favor of stainless...........regrettably.

Also, I forgot to mention that when I use to compete; I did not have to worry about the ejector rod coming loose on the GP100s and the modular design made them easier to work on IMHO.

Smiths and Colts are good .357 magnums. But if the OPs intended purpose is lots of shooting with the full power loads? Then I would recommend the Rugers. JMO
 
Either a Smith 686 or a Ruger GP100 will meet your self-defense needs. Before this weekend, I could have been more objective about Ruger, but I am mad at them for discontinuing their Old Army blackpowder revolver from production. Now this incident has nothing to do with the quality of Ruger centerfire revolvers, but it has galled me. Now that I have vented my spleen, I would say both of the guns I have listed are accurate and durable for defensive purposes.

Some people believe that a .357 Magnum revolver with a six inch barrel represents the best compromise between power and controllability when loaded with 125 grain bullets. This is a controversial statement that I mention only to demonstrate the high regard some people hold for the .357. I hope this information helps.


Timthinker
 
I'd recommend a 4" S&W 686. I've got one with a lock and it's been fine. You might also try a 4" S&W 620 (which doesn't have a full lug barrel) just to see which one balances better for you.

My first .357 was a j-frame 3" S&W 60 - great gun, and it shoots .357's well, but it's a handful with full-power rounds and I don't really like to shoot a whole box in one session. .38's out of it are fine.

On the other hand, I could shoot .357's out of my 686 all day long - no problem.
 
I like S&W because I have experience with them. I went to a gun show once to buy a Ruger & it didn't point well at all for me. Maybe grip change would have helped but I didn't buy one on that hope.

If it's mostly a range gun, go adjustable sights. The mod 28 is an incredible revolver, can't go wrong with a 686 either.

For HD/range gun I bought a 4" 66. No regrets. I don't shoot the 125 gr loads but use the heavier ones and I have no worries about messing the pistol up. I like the relative lightness and handiness of the pistol.
 
Ehh my moms .22 smith and wesson leaves me questioning the reliability and quality of smith and wesson pistols. The .22 LR pistol keeps jamming even when I dissaemble and oil all of the pistol parts and you feed it federal ammunition. Ruger definately seems like the best chioce.
Click to expand...

I would never state my opinions on a line of guns based on their 22lr lineup. Most 22lr tend to be finiky toward some manufacturers ammo. I would compare apples to apples, I hate the ruger lineup of 22lr's because they are hard to teardown. But their centerfire guns are great.
 
686+ timing

Hello,

As an owner of a new S&W 686+ 4" I have been watching this thread with some invested interest.

I own my .357 to shoot it, and shoot it some more, so could some of the more experienced shooters please describe what 1) The effects of when the problem happens (out of timing or forcing cone worn)? 2) What it takes to solve the problem, as I am guessing the whole gun does not need to be scrapped? Finally 3) Ballpark, how many rounds it takes to get to that point (5,000 or 50,000)?

Thank you for your help,
RFB
 
The biggest problem with the .22 S&W is the design is terrible. The bullet is actaully lower than the barrel so it forces it up and in that process part of the bullet gets worn and could increase chance of jam as well. I could litteraly see copper residue where the bullet dragged till it reached the barrel. It also doesn't like hornady so I doubt ammo brands the issue. Its a bad design and an unreliable mechanism.

The ruger she owned never failed. It was only returned because it was not very lefty friendly. Thus I will stand by ruger and make my .357 a ruger.
 
I have a sp101 for carry and a blackhawk for the sheer fun of it. The blackhawk is a sweet shooting gun.
 
686+ timing

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello,

As an owner of a new S&W 686+ 4" I have been watching this thread with some invested interest.

I own my .357 to shoot it, and shoot it some more, so could some of the more experienced shooters please describe what 1) The effects of when the problem happens (out of timing or forcing cone worn)? 2) What it takes to solve the problem, as I am guessing the whole gun does not need to be scrapped? Finally 3) Ballpark, how many rounds it takes to get to that point (5,000 or 50,000)?

Thank you for your help,
RFB
Click to expand...

Sure no problem.
The 686 is a great gun IMO.
The first timing issue occured for me at about the 8500 round mark. That is shooting 125 grn bullets. These full power loads travel at 1450 fps from a 4" tube. The height of their pressure just so happens right at the forcing cone area.

History of the .357: When it was first developed it was made for the 158 grn bullet. S&W was first to capitalize on this new cartridge. It introduced a beefed up K-frame model (beefed up lock work from the .38 special guns with the same frame size). These were great with 38's for practice and .357s for business.

The 158 grn load was better at dropping bad guys than the 38s but still not that "magic bullet" that LE desired. So ammo makers (specifically Remington) developed the 125 grn round. This round has since redefined the term "stopping power" when it comes to 2 legged predators. It is interesting to note that Sanow and Marshall rate it as a 96% (Federl HI_shok 125 grn LHP) one shot stop with a torso hit. Some .40 cal rounds get close to this % with a torso hit. But, the interesting thing is when you look at real life shootings when a solid torso hit was not made (meaning the assailant was hit in the arm, leg, or "other" area). The .357 magnum still has a very high one shot stop ratio where no other round (even the 45) does not. It really is the closest thing to a "magic bullet" that they have come up with. Disclaimer: there is NO MAGIC BULLET! So, with these outstanding results LE agencies switched to this new 125 grn round and had MUCH success with it.

But a perceived need to change to train with the ammo one loads for SD purposes saw many LE agencies begin this practice of training with the same HOT ammo. This began to cause excessive wear on the K-frame Smiths. Causing forcing cone errosion, cylinder endshake, and timing problems.

Hence, S&W introduced the L frame 586 and 686. A beefed up .357 that could withstand 10,000 rounds of the hot stuff. And I'd say that this round count is actually pretty close in my experience. More like 12,000 rounds of hot 125 grn loadings before lock-up issues occur. The 686 plus (7 shot) will go out of timing a little faster.

But, do not fret! They can rebuild them. S&W will rebuild them and has a wonderful cust service dept. They are great!

Now remember 99% of all people who own a 357 will NOT shoot enough 125 grn loads to cause timing issues. And even the k-frames will eat up standard pressure 38s all day long.....or all decades long as many here have attested to this fact.

S&W build good guns.

But the Ruger is easier to work on. Will NOT go out of timing (that I have seen). The Ruger has an ejector rod that is NOT the 3rd locking point. Thus the gun design allows the ejector rod to sit lower in the frame. This gives more metal in the forcing cone area. (the height of the 125 grn loads pressure hits here). This also means the ejector rod does not unscrew loose during shooting hot loads causing a lock-up of the revolver. The GP100 is a superior design in my opinion. Its hey day was cut short by a change in its audiences perceived need for more "firepower". Whatever that is.

I could continue on but I am hogging the conversation.
S&W and Ruger make fine revolvers. I just prefer the GP100 as it suits my needs........to shoot alot of rounds.

God bless all you gun owners.
I mean no disrespect to your chosen gun.
 
Thanks for the great info 2ndamd!

And do not worry about offending me, I know I chose the horse with more style in my S&W 686 over the Clydesdale Rugers.

I just wanted to know what to look out for in the future to avoid bang, bang, *BOOM*, as the rounds I get from my local Sporting Goods store are the 125 Grain Remington UMCs. :)

Happy Shooting,
RFB

P.S. I have read about endshake, my new 686 when cocked (and unloaded) I can wiggle roll the cylinder ever so slightly, at what point does normal go too far?
 
That slight rotation is normal in all S&Ws. But beware of the forward and back end shake. This requires a good gunsmith to fix....or S&W.

The most surest sign that you are entering into a problem ara with endshake or timing issues is when you're shooting and you get alot of debris hitting you in the face. In other words it "spits" at you.

You can purchase "Range Rods" to check for alignment from a guy at "the ruger forum" his name is "Iowegan". He sells them quite cheap and they come with a manual of instruction on how to use. Very much worth the money IMO. They were les than $20. This range rod will help detect any alignment issues.

The cheapest and easiest way is to slow cock the hammer and check for lock-up on the cylinder locking lug. It should lock-up on a smith just before the hammer is cocked. You must check all six cylinders. 1-2 cylinders will go out of timing before the others.
 
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