What is the best Glock trigger improvement or replacement?

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george burns

george burns

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Sitting and researching Glock trigger mods and complete replacement packages from a dozen different manufacturers has given me less of an idea of what I need to buy, than before I started. After 30 years of Glocks, I have decided to stop avoiding the bad trigger and embrace changing parts. I am thinking after much reading that Windham, Apex, Taran or one of the other drop in packages for $120- 200.00 is probably the end result as far as really getting a great trigger, if that's possible.
My first step was to order a Ghost Ultimate kit with the springs and commector, just to see what that does. I don't like the idea of changing the stryker spring, because I like feel that's pushing your luck, the connector and it's spring and even the one connected to the safety in the slide, "plunger spring" seem to be safe. I really doubt that this is going to do that much, but decided to start there.
I didn't want to start filing and refitting parts if it wasn't going to make a big difference anyway.
What kits or changes worked best for you in gen 3 and 4 9mm and 45 caliber guns?
I figure on doing 3 of my guns, if the end result is really worth it. Switching brands is not the answer I am looking for, as I have other guns, so please stick to Glocks.
thanks
 
Before spending money on them Id research and see if it compromises the safety functions of the gun, such as is it still drop safe etc, unless you are one of the infallible folks that never ever drops a gun under any circumstance.

As many before have said, before spending money on things to try to help improve your shooting, spending the money on ammo, and getting to the point you either dont care if its a perfect trigger (doesnt negatively affect your shooting performance), or if you can actually tell if its truly holding you back at some point.

Glock triggers are sort of spongy, but not that hard to shoot reasonably well.
 
OEM 3.5 connector with NY 1 trigger spring. Should give you about a 6 pound pull that is more like a double action revolver trigger. Safe enough for duty and a cleaner break. If it's not to your liking you're only out less than $50.
 
george burns said:
Sitting and researching Glock trigger mods and complete replacement packages from a dozen different manufacturers has given me less of an idea of what I need to buy, than before I started. After 30 years of Glocks, I have decided to stop avoiding the bad trigger and embrace changing parts. I am thinking after much reading that Windham, Apex, Taran or one of the other drop in packages for $120- 200.00 is probably the end result as far as really getting a great trigger, if that's possible.
My first step was to order a Ghost Ultimate kit with the springs and commector, just to see what that does. I don't like the idea of changing the stryker spring, because I like feel that's pushing your luck, the connector and it's spring and even the one connected to the safety in the slide, "plunger spring" seem to be safe. I really doubt that this is going to do that much, but decided to start there.
I didn't want to start filing and refitting parts if it wasn't going to make a big difference anyway.
What kits or changes worked best for you in gen 3 and 4 9mm and 45 caliber guns?
I figure on doing 3 of my guns, if the end result is really worth it. Switching brands is not the answer I am looking for, as I have other guns, so please stick to Glocks.
thanks
Click to expand...
OEM. Unless you are a Glock armorer and want to fix the reliability issues with a none factory trigger and group.
 
I have a Gen 4 Glock 19 with some trigger work. I use a Ghost Edge 3.5 connector, a Lone Wolf 6-pound trigger spring, and the trigger bar and firing pin safety plunger are polished to a mirror finish. The trigger has a very smooth "rolling break" that I really like, and makes it easy to hit steel out to 100 yards if I do my part. The only thing I have left to do is to replace the trigger with a smooth face Gen 4 Glock 17 trigger because I hate the serrated trigger used on the 19/23 models for import points.

I also have a Gen 3 Glock 21 with a Lone Wolf 3.5 connector, trigger bar and firing pin safety plunger polish. The trigger is not as smooth as the Ghost Edge but it's a vast improvement over the stock Gen 3 trigger. But I will say that Glocks "dot" connector that ships in the Gen 4s is the best Glock trigger I've ever felt out of the box.

PRO TIP: DO NOT mess with the striker spring if you care about reliability. Almost everybody that has ever lightened it suffers light primer strikes and that's unacceptable in any capacity.
 
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I run Vaneks in all my Glock's. I will second what ^^^ said about FP's and FP springs. You can change the FP plunger to a more polished one, with no ill effects, but don't touch anything else in the slide...
 
It kind of depends on what you're looking for. You can get a trigger that is pretty good for a glock, and then you can get a good trigger. Salient and Taran are the only two I've personally shot that were GOOD TRIGGERS. My Glocks have stock triggers or maybe the best of three OEM connectors installed. I like the smooth faced triggers and I shave the safety tab flush. I'm too cheap to pay $200 for a glock trigger. It feels to me like putting a Recaro race seat and full harness in a stock Toyota Camry.
 
Malamute said:
Before spending money on them Id research and see if it compromises the safety functions of the gun, such as is it still drop safe etc, unless you are one of the infallible folks that never ever drops a gun under any circumstance.

As many before have said, before spending money on things to try to help improve your shooting, spending the money on ammo, and getting to the point you either dont care if its a perfect trigger (doesnt negatively affect your shooting performance), or if you can actually tell if its truly holding you back at some point.

Glock triggers are sort of spongy, but not that hard to shoot reasonably well.
Click to expand...
No my PM9 fell out of my pocket for the 2nd time in 6 years while taking care of business in the mens room. Luckily it suffered no damage and I fired it right after to make sure, stuff happens.
 
I think it also depends on how you will be using pistol. Will it be a carry gun, home defense, range gun, etc. For my Glock carry guns I've polished the trigger bar, etc. just using a cue tip and polish. And I've added a 3.5# Ghost drop in connector. This gives me a smoother trigger and about a 5.5# trigger pull for my carry guns. I don't want to reduce the trigger pull beyond the 5.5# range for carry guns.

For my G17 Gen 3 range gun I've polished the trigger bar, added a 3.5# Ghost drop in connector, and replaced the trigger spring with a 6# spring. This smooth's out the G17 trigger more and results in a about a 4.5# trigger pull. These changes are what works for me.
 
"...Flat faced and vertically-serrated trigger shoe. The vertical serrations provide a tactile, non-slip feel, and the flat face influences the user to press straight back against the trigger, resulting in an even press to the rear. The trigger shoe itself is permanently fixed to the trigger bar, and like a standard Glock trigger, the pins are pressed in from the left, but do not push all the way through the shoe, preventing disassembly."
http://www.gunsandtactics.com/trigger-round-up-part-i-innovative-gunfighter-solutions
http://innovativegunfightersolutions.com
---------------------------------------------
"The AD SWiTCH is arguably the most over engineered Glock trigger in existence. 6 operations between CNC and Wire EDM machines, an oil impregnated bronze bushing, zero adjustment necessary and a safety mechanism designed to be stronger and safer than OEM. The Patent Pending SWiTCH only has two positions, ON and OFF. Using mechanical advantage and completely redesigned geometry, the Patent Pending SWiTCH gives the operator the best trigger pull possible without any of the guesswork."
https://www.arsenaldemocracy.us/product/switch/
 
I'm waiting on the parts now, and will put in the connector and 6lb spring to start, if that is enough for me to smooth out the stacking and get rid of the spongey feel then I will stop there. Thanks, if not I will polish the plunger and possibly try the 4 lb firing pin spring, but at least 2-400 rounds have to go down range for me to feel it's reliable
 
Rubber_Duck said:
Look up the 25-cent trigger job. Start there, and with a connector of your choice and report back.
Click to expand...
Yes I have seen that. I figure on changing the bar and spring first and see what that willl do. I am good with polishing internals after that if it still feels sticky.
 
Changed the connettor and return spring attached, after 20 minutes of assorted polishing, I still could not get the trigger to reset every time, took out the spring an replaced it with the original, and it works no problem. This stops me from changing any other springs. The trigger saftey workd on the initial cocking, but if you cocked it again it was 50/50 on weather it was functioning. That was a NG for me, so I removed it. It's a little better with the ultimate connector, but stil gritty and humpy, Gen 4 19, I am thinking of trying the plunger spring tomorrow when I get bored, but from what I have read this is about what to expect. If I had a Gauge it would probablly read the samd as before with a tad less travel and a little faster reset.
 
$0.25 polish job, 5000 rounds +, works best.

Then I use:
-LW 3.5 connector
-medium striker spring, or a light but stretched spring
-flush cut G34 trigger bar

I never use the extra strength trigger spring, stock only.
The Apex trigger is nice, but I'm sticking with the stock 34's for now.
 
george burns said:
Changed the connettor and return spring attached, after 20 minutes of assorted polishing, I still could not get the trigger to reset every time, took out the spring an replaced it with the original, and it works no problem. This stops me from changing any other springs. The trigger saftey workd on the initial cocking, but if you cocked it again it was 50/50 on weather it was functioning. That was a NG for me, so I removed it. It's a little better with the ultimate connector, but stil gritty and humpy, Gen 4 19, I am thinking of trying the plunger spring tomorrow when I get bored, but from what I have read this is about what to expect. If I had a Gauge it would probablly read the samd as before with a tad less travel and a little faster reset.
Click to expand...



If the trigger is not resetting it's possible your connector is not bent at the correct angle. Should be about 85 degrees. If it's 90 degrees it won't function. Best way to check is to fully insert it into you're ejector housing and check if a business card will still slide in between the ejector housing and the connector. It basically acts like a spring which is cammed out by the slide to disengage it from the trigger bar. Be very careful with bending it because the trigger reset is a critical function. Many aftermarket connectors need a little bending one way or another.

You will still have grittiness and bumpiness until you do the 25-cent trigger job, trust me on that one.

Also, the Gen 4 Glocks are known to respond less to aftermarket connectors because the angle of the connector has changed by a few degrees as a result of making the ejector housing shorter front-to-back for the smaller Gen 4 grip size.
 
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That's good to know, I did bend the bar a bit because it felt like it was riding against the slide as I racked it several times. I felt the outline of the internal slide line. I did that 3 bend "lightly" and it did help. I will try the business card trick and more polishing tomorrow. i hate to do stuff at night. Since I had to spend the early part of the day removing the frozen handels off a bathroom sink, I don't want to screw something up due to being burnt out. It felt better a few hours after I posted this, sometimes you just have to stop for a while and take a break. That trigger reset perfectly with the original spring back in though, which leads me to think it wasn't the angle as much as the spring. Unless it's been 'off all along". Otherwise I will just try it with all the parts replaced, do the polish job and re access. Is the long spring the 6 lb and the short one the 4lb or the other way around. i saw a guy on utube do it wrong, others said he was using the long spring and it was the lighter of the two.
 
You bent the bar as in the trigger bar, or the trigger connector? We need to use the correct terminology here so we know what's going on.

As for the trigger spring affecting the reset, or causing the failure to reset, we need to know exactly which springs you are talking about, which parts they are from what manufacturer, to help you better. Certain combinations of striker and trigger springs will cause failures to reset.

One of the interesting things about the Glock is the way the springs interact with each other, so having a comprehensive understanding of the entire system goes a long way towards knowing what you should and should not mess with in your Glock as well as troubleshooting.
 
A weak striker spring and the extra stiff trigger springs can make the trigger not return fully and engage the trigger safety bar. It also makes the trigger return slow.

That's why I avoid stiff aftermarket trigger springs. And you have to be careful with the light Wolff striker springs. A striker spring too soft can sometimes be stretched a little to help return. And some Glocks have more friction in the triggers. My G41 can not make use of a light striker spring at all. Only a medium.
 
Rubber_Duck said:
You bent the bar as in the trigger bar, or the trigger connector? We need to use the correct terminology here so we know what's going on.

As for the trigger spring affecting the reset, or causing the failure to reset, we need to know exactly which springs you are talking about, which parts they are from what manufacturer, to help you better. Certain combinations of striker and trigger springs will cause failures to reset.

One of the interesting things about the Glock is the way the springs interact with each other, so having a comprehensive understanding of the entire system goes a long way towards knowing what you should and should not mess with in your Glock as well as troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
It's the Ultimate Complete Trigger Kit for a Gen 1- 4 ,ced the trigger connector back in the slot, "as has been shown on several Utube videos", and bent it ever so slightly, using a three small movements to bend it away from hitting the inside of the slide.
So right now the trigger spring that was in the kit, "the 6 lb one" I removed and went back to stock. That made the trigger safety work the way it's supposed to, verses sticking and having to be tapped to make sure it was resseting the trigger safety. So the trigger is a bit shorter in pull, and less grit on the pull, but nothing to write home about. The trigger was better with their spring attached, but I was not going to sacrifice the trigger safety failing to function half the time with it in. Seeing it snap back like it's supposed to, left no doubt in my mind that it was the culprit.
I can see that perhaps a polishing of all of the internalsmay help a bit, and possibly using their plunger spring, "the one under the ejector, on the slide", may help a bit, and will try that tomorrow. I am doubtful that I want to mess with the firing pin spring, as this gun resides on my night stand for my HD gun. Which I will relieve it from until I test fire it after I get it ironed out.
 
So is this what you have?: https://ghostinc.com/3-5-ultimate-complete-trigger-kit-for-glock-gen-1-4/

What do you mean by bending the connector to keep it from hitting the inside of the slide? I'm not sure I understand you correctly, but the connector is SUPPOSED to ride against the slide so it can be cammed out during recoil and snap back when the gun goes back into battery and you release the trigger, resetting it. That's why the connector has that dog ear on top.

Also the EXTRACTOR is in the slide, not the ejector.
 
Yes it's late, I meant extractor. Yes that's it. Sometimes if the connector is at a slight angle, it will rub and not work properlly "from utube videos, and from some PM's I got. That's not the problem, it works fine with the old spring the new one is too heavy and prevents the trigger safety form working properly. It works 1/2 the time on a fresh rack, but if you press the trigger with an empty gun, the trigger safe doesn't always return all the way out, "I can fire it from the side of the trigger", unless I tap it forward. This oly happens with the new 6lb trigger spring.
 
Yeah. Get rid of that trigger spring. Never use anything other than the stock Glock trigger spring.

The heavy aftermarket ones "pull" the trigger too much. Making the return too weak. Add in some new pistol friction, and the trigger never moves far enough forward to engage the safety.

Noone uses stiffer than stock trigger springs anymore. You can get a nice trigger with polish, connector, and striker spring (optional).
 
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