what to do with these type 99 actions?

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Without a large spindle bore your little lathe probably wont work. I was specifically looking at this when I bought my grizzly, it has a large enough bore for most barrel blanks. Maybe get a machine shop to do the turning and threading for you. I vote for a 44 based wildcat. I stuffed a 44 bullet in an expanded 30-06 case and it is a great idea!
 
If the minor diameter of the rem700 bbl threads is greater than the major diameter of the arisaka threads, itll work. Having tpi that is close means nothing. You can't turn a 14 tpi into 17 tpi and retain the same barrel diameter.
 
Without a large spindle bore your little lathe probably wont work. I was specifically looking at this when I bought my grizzly, it has a large enough bore for most barrel blanks. Maybe get a machine shop to do the turning and threading for you.

I wouldn't say its impossible. I think it could be threaded in a steady rest if your patient. Not ideal but doable.
 
I wouldn't say its impossible. I think it could be threaded in a steady rest if your patient. Not ideal but doable.
If the bed length is long enough than sure, but it might not be on a 9" lathe. I have done this on mine with the steady rest and it will work but it is really difficult.

Also, many barrel blanks aren't concentrically bored, so you have to turn them on centers to true them up. Also really tough with a small lathe. What I've found is that building stuff is mostly an excuse to buy more tooling, it rarely ends up cheaper in the long run. But I can build what I want no matter if it is available or not. That makes it worth it to me. There is probably a break even point somewhere, I just havent found it yet...
 
If the bed length is long enough than sure, but it might not be on a 9" lathe. I have done this on mine with the steady rest and it will work but it is really difficult.

Also, many barrel blanks aren't concentrically bored, so you have to turn them on centers to true them up. Also really tough with a small lathe. What I've found is that building stuff is mostly an excuse to buy more tooling, it rarely ends up cheaper in the long run. But I can build what I want no matter if it is available or not. That makes it worth it to me. There is probably a break even point somewhere, I just havent found it yet...
i think the SB is 32 or 36 between centers. i had a 1891 argentine barrel on them one time with lots of room,it was 24 inches.
 
I have to look into cutting the 1 in 17 thread on my dads 9 inch south bend lathe, i need to figure how to get the barrel to cut.

I'm pretty sure the threads are M26x1.5. There's no imperial equivalent. You'll have to get the gears for the 127/5 conversion. Either that or use a tool post grinder with a thread milling cutter, rotate the chuck manually and advance it the requisite amount every 1/4 revolution.

I cut M1.5 on my Hardinge. All my gear changers or QCGB equipped machines are imperial.
 
I'm pretty sure the threads are M26x1.5. There's no imperial equivalent. You'll have to get the gears for the 127/5 conversion. Either that or use a tool post grinder with a thread milling cutter, rotate the chuck manually and advance it the requisite amount every 1/4 revolution.

I cut M1.5 on my Hardinge. All my gear changers or QCGB equipped machines are imperial.

When the he said 16.xx I figured it was a metric. My grizzly will do it, but I'd have to swap gears out too.
 
When the he said 16.xx I figured it was a metric. My grizzly will do it, but I'd have to swap gears out too.

Yeah, and cannot disengage the half nuts.

When I need to cut metrics for which I do not have a lead screw & follower set on the Hardinge, I use a tool post milling attachment I made with a thread milling cutter for my Rahn-Larmon, select the nearest imperial pitch, calculate the difference, turn the compound 90°, set it up with my .0001" indicator and then advance or retract the compound by whatever amount every 1/4 or 1/2 revolution of the spindle. I cut them a little light and then chase it with a file to blend out the tiny steps. It's a pain!

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jap. 16.93 tpi 1.050 shank .700 long
rem 16 tpi 1.062 shank .883 long

That is a 1.5mm pitch. I don't know what gears you have on hand or if you have a quick change gear box or not, but you can make a metric thread pitch with the right combination of change gears. The manual for my Atlas details how to do. With a 127 tooth gear you can make an exact metric pitch but there is a simpler combination you can make that will make metric threads to 2999/3000 of exact, which will be plenty close for a short barrel shank. My Atlas will do it with the standard change gears that came with it.

This is the gear combination out of my atlas manual. Can be done with or without quickchange gear box. I’m sure there is a similar procedure for a SB

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That is a 1.5mm pitch. I don't know what gears you have on hand or if you have a quick change gear box or not, but you can make a metric thread pitch with the right combination of change gears. The manual for my Atlas details how to do. With a 127 tooth gear you can make an exact metric pitch but there is a simpler combination you can make that will make metric threads to 2999/3000 of exact, which will be plenty close for a short barrel shank. My Atlas will do it with the standard change gears that came with it.

This is the gear combination out of my atlas manual. Can be done with or without quickchange gear box. I’m sure there is a similar procedure for a SB

View attachment 820356

View attachment 820357
ya it has quick change box, i dont have the lathe here it's upstate at m dsds
 
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