someguy2800
Member
I would love to trade up to a 15" Clausing someday. I currently just have a little 10" Atlas with a 54" bed. Its pretty light duty but works well if treated with patience and respect. Mine was made in 1939.
would a modified rem 700 barrel work the 700 is just bigger and close to the same tpi.
i have the old barrel from my 700, it has no value since it was a 708 then a 7br then back to a 7mm08, there is no shank left on it.I didn't think about it, but I've got a dinged up 700 barrel you can have, if you want to try it.
Without a large spindle bore your little lathe probably wont work. I was specifically looking at this when I bought my grizzly, it has a large enough bore for most barrel blanks. Maybe get a machine shop to do the turning and threading for you.
I stuffed a 44 bullet in an expanded 30-06 case and it is a great idea!
If the bed length is long enough than sure, but it might not be on a 9" lathe. I have done this on mine with the steady rest and it will work but it is really difficult.I wouldn't say its impossible. I think it could be threaded in a steady rest if your patient. Not ideal but doable.
jap. 16.93 tpi 1.050 shank .700 longOnce again I'm.an idiot....I forgot I have both a t99 and an Ari barrel off gun
...as well as a few others....
I'll be home firday I'll do some measurements.
i think the SB is 32 or 36 between centers. i had a 1891 argentine barrel on them one time with lots of room,it was 24 inches.If the bed length is long enough than sure, but it might not be on a 9" lathe. I have done this on mine with the steady rest and it will work but it is really difficult.
Also, many barrel blanks aren't concentrically bored, so you have to turn them on centers to true them up. Also really tough with a small lathe. What I've found is that building stuff is mostly an excuse to buy more tooling, it rarely ends up cheaper in the long run. But I can build what I want no matter if it is available or not. That makes it worth it to me. There is probably a break even point somewhere, I just havent found it yet...
If it's that long then use a steady rest like someguy2800 suggested. It'll work if you go slowly.i think the SB is 32 or 36 between centers. i had a 1891 argentine barrel on them one time with lots of room,it was 24 inches.
jap. 16.93 tpi 1.050 shank .700 long
rem 16 tpi 1.062 shank .883 long
I have to look into cutting the 1 in 17 thread on my dads 9 inch south bend lathe, i need to figure how to get the barrel to cut.
the face of a 700 barrel would not be good either. i got to practice and check the fit.A .0125 difference is not enough the turn off and rethread to "17" tpi and retain a 1.050 od
I'm pretty sure the threads are M26x1.5. There's no imperial equivalent. You'll have to get the gears for the 127/5 conversion. Either that or use a tool post grinder with a thread milling cutter, rotate the chuck manually and advance it the requisite amount every 1/4 revolution.
I cut M1.5 on my Hardinge. All my gear changers or QCGB equipped machines are imperial.
When the he said 16.xx I figured it was a metric. My grizzly will do it, but I'd have to swap gears out too.
jap. 16.93 tpi 1.050 shank .700 long
rem 16 tpi 1.062 shank .883 long
ya it has quick change box, i dont have the lathe here it's upstate at m dsdsThat is a 1.5mm pitch. I don't know what gears you have on hand or if you have a quick change gear box or not, but you can make a metric thread pitch with the right combination of change gears. The manual for my Atlas details how to do. With a 127 tooth gear you can make an exact metric pitch but there is a simpler combination you can make that will make metric threads to 2999/3000 of exact, which will be plenty close for a short barrel shank. My Atlas will do it with the standard change gears that came with it.
This is the gear combination out of my atlas manual. Can be done with or without quickchange gear box. I’m sure there is a similar procedure for a SB
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