What won't destroy Bluing but will destroy rust.

[bigalexe]

Alright my friend due to a number of reasons has a Muzzle loader barrel with a stuck and now sheared off breach plug and rust in the barrel. We are assuming the reason the plug is stuck is that it rusted. It had previously been mentioned to me in reference to another problem that regular ATF Transmission fluid will destroy rust and I have suggested filling the barrel with trans fluid to my friend to dissolve as much as possible.

Question: Will transmission fluid destroy bluing? If it will, what else will destroy rust but not barrel bluing?

Also don't ask me about how the plug got sheared off, I wasn't there and I was just told that when they tried to remove the plug by putting the barrel in a machinist vise (octagonal barrel) and remove it with crescent wrench the head sheared off.

 

[longdayjake]

sounds more expensive than just buying a new muzzle loader. They are pretty cheap after all. Unless it is a valuable or collectible one you may just want to use a penetrant/rust killer and reblue it if you have to.

 

[juk]

I would try a deep penetrating product such as PB Blaster. I wouldn't trust ATF. Just make sure the penetrant has time to work. Spray every 15 minutes for an hour, then try to remove the plug.

 

[hardluk1]

Fill the barrel with Kroil oil and set in a corner for a week then go to cleaning. Won't hurt what ever finish is on the outside.

 

[bigalexe]

sounds more expensive than just buying a new muzzle loader. They are pretty cheap after all. Unless it is a valuable or collectible one you may just want to use a penetrant/rust killer and reblue it if you have to.

Sorry not buying a new gun. The gun is a CVA Percussion Cap gun with octagonal barrel that weighs a frickin ton. I asked my friend to look for a serial number but he couldn't find one and I haven't had a chance to inspect it myself.

I would try a deep penetrating product such as PB Blaster. I wouldn't trust ATF. Just make sure the penetrant has time to work. Spray every 15 minutes for an hour, then try to remove the plug.

Alright thanks, removing the plug is now limited to drilling it and using an easy-out.

 

[tube_ee]

Bluing is rust.

just an FYI.

--Shannon

 

[jpwilly]

Penetrating oil will stop and prevent rust. Products like WD-40 and Kroil work very well too - why, because they displace Water / Moisture and get into every nook and cranny!

 

[ants]

Several different manufacturers make replacement barrels for CVA. I just saw some at Cabela's Bargain Cave. Maybe you can get lucky and replace it.

My guess based on personal experience (don't ask me how I know): You probably ain't gonna save that barrel. An uncleaned black powder barrel that gathered moisture and rust long enough to bust a breech plug, is gone for good.

Additional thought: If you can save the barrel with a real rust buster that strips the bluing, we have several threads on THR by members who reblued with spectacularly good results. Latest one was a Mossberg shotgun. Go look it up.

 

[natman]

+1 for Kroil. If anything will loosen it, Kroil will.

Before you bother, I'd take a look down the bore.

 

[CZguy]

+1 for Kroil. If anything will loosen it, Kroil will.

Before you bother, I'd take a look down the bore.

Good advice, plus two.

I'd be very concerned about the condition of the barrel.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

CVA cap guns require the drum to be removed before you can 'pull the plug' due to the 'patent breech' - sounds to me as if that's what happened here, he didn't remove the drum first which held the plug securely and he sheared the hook off. even if you can remove the plug now - with the breech hook sheared (would require the use of an EZ out and plenty of penetrant - and luck) you would have to properly fit, drill and tap the new plug for the drum, as it's a 'patent breech' type of build.
you're best off to buy a replacement barrel.

 

[skidooman603]

#4
hardluk1
Member



Join Date: March 27, 2009
Location: nc mountains
Posts: 445 Fill the barrel with Kroil oil and set in a corner for a week then go to cleaning. Won't hurt what ever finish is on

+1 to Kroil

 

[Sav .250]

Mystery oil......... and let that puppy soak a bit.

 

[Uncle Mike]

+2 on the Kroil idea... this stuff is made by the 70 virgins on the other side!

If the Kroil by itself wont cause your breech plug to give up...warm the plug area with a low heat torch such as a propane torch while applying torque to the plug.( Do NOT get the PLUG HOT)

ATF will not 'dissolve' rust...if it did there would be a lot more busted Chevy trucks.
(That's for you... Dixiedude! lol hehehe -a friend of mine)

Black powder is in itself terribly dirty and fouling, your 'plug' might be fouled...the threads that is. lol

Give the Kroil a week or so to ooze into the fouled threads.

Try your question on the Black Powder section of THR...lots o' good guys and info. there!

 

[redneck2]

I sell industrial lubricants for a living. Kroil is as good as it gets. Heat will really help, but I suspect Kroil is highly flammable.

If you do drill, get a left handed bit. They run in opposite of most bits and tend to loosen instead of tighten. Most of the E-Z out's have left drill bits.

 

[MountainBear]

Another vote for Kroil.

 

[TomADC]

Kroil gets a vote as does Wonder Blue Gun cleaner, but if you use scotchbrite with the wonder blue it will take the blueing off.

 

[bodab]

yall can say what you want but i'll put my left peanut on it that BP blaster will better then anything else that yall have said! and yeah I would fill th barrel up!