What's this? SKS Tool capsule!?

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Spiggy

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:neener: branching out from the mosin screwdriver thread.

Now, Someone had asked a question about what exactly are the tools inside the SKS tool capsule(the one in the stock, now if you don't know about this and have a SKS or other simonov pattern carbine, look at the buttstock of the SKS and there should be a trapdoor, careful you can get bit on accident!)

So we managed to identify the basics
1. The cap is a muzzle protector
2. the thin thing is a punch for the firing pin
3. the fuzzy thing is a brush
4. the cleaning jag is for... well... cleaning

here are some more observations!
The body of the capsule has two slots at the mouth one round and one square.
What are these for?

Also, I notice there are four holes on the body of the capsule, each have different sizes, what is that for?

Thanks in advanced!

Edit!
Does this look right to you? cleaning rod into the body of the capsule, making a handle, and then using the punch through the second set of holes to secure them together, making an actual handle?
IMG_0216.jpg
 
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The holes on the cleaning kit body allow you to drop the cleaning rod through it, then push the punch into the body, through the hole in the cleaning rod head, making the cleaning rod, cleaning kit body and punch into a X-handle for the cleaning rod.

The holes in the cleaning rod body are sized differently so that the cleaning rod and punch will not push all the way through the cleaning kit body. It's a very cleverly designed multi-tool kit.
Mauserguy
 
I don't have a reference for this, but it is my understanding that the cap for the cleaning kit will also function as a blank firing adapter. I no longer have a Chinese or Russian to test this, however. YMMV.

Of course, this will not work on a Yugo with the grenade launcher.
 
the Yugo SKS doesn't require a muzzle protector as the rifling is protected by the GL.

Some kits also have the sight adjusting tool included with a rectangle hole in the body to grip the tool in, same tool as found in the AK buttstock kits, the gas port tool will generally bend if ya use it as a punch for driving out the fireing pin retainer pin, disassembly of the bolt was not encouraged and was a field armorers domain to clean the bolt it was simply swished in the mess kits cup filled with kerosen or gasoline.
 
What does the sight adjusting tool look like? I've only seen plastic ones for sale on the internet. Bugs me that if I want to adjust the sights I need to buy a specific tool.
 
Mojo-jo-jo said:
I don't have a reference for this, but it is my understanding that the cap for the cleaning kit will also function as a blank firing adapter. I no longer have a Chinese or Russian to test this, however. YMMV.
Click to expand...
Looks probable to me, it has two arms that lock to the front sight; the thing aint gonna pop out if you're just doing a barrel clean.
 
the cap is NOT a blank fireing adapter ......... unless ya want to shoot the cap off into never never land thats why blank fireing adapters must be firmly afixed to the barrel via threads or a very stout clamp....... and preferably made from very heavy duty steel think bout it for a half a second....... those same blanks launch a 1 lb grenade over 250 yards that is how much force is hitting the inside of a blank fireing adapter your not holding one on with the thin lil sheet metal tabs found on the cap for the cleaning kit it has one function.... to center the cleaning rod in the muzzle thats it..


the sight adjusting tool is combo screw driver, wrench and sight tool the left end in pic is the sight tool, some versions also incorperate the gas port cleaning tool as well in a fold out those are usually found in the AK version butstock cleaning kit, the screw driver end fits into the slot in the tube body to use the tube as a handle
 

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My Norinco SKS has the rubber pad and I got my finger stuck in that Chinese finger trap. The tool capsule was pushing against my finger and the trap door was closing on it! I had to unscrew the buttplate to get my finger out. Ouch!:eek:
 
the wood blanks won't cycle the action but ya can use em as a straight pull bolt action....... be aware though that they are still dangerouse out to about 15-20 yards at least they'l punch holes through 2 layers of cardboard when fired from an AK should retain velocity even further from the longer sks barrel but the wood slug is on 5 grns so.......
 
What does the sight adjusting tool look like? I've only seen plastic ones for sale on the internet. Bugs me that if I want to adjust the sights I need to buy a specific tool.
Click to expand...

There are two types of sight tools: One like dstorm1911 illustrated that can be put in the cleaning kit, however it only adjusts elevation, not windage. To adjust windage, you need a tool like this:
 

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those same blanks launch a 1 lb grenade over 250 yards that is how much force is hitting the inside of a blank fireing adapter your not holding one on with the thin lil sheet metal tabs found on the cap for the cleaning kit it has one function....
Click to expand...

Did the Russians and Chinese produce only one kind of blank cartridge? It is my understanding that other nations produced one type of blank cartridge for (basically) noisemaking and another, more heavily loaded, variety strictly for grenade launching. I distinctly remember reading somewhere that if you try to use a regular blank for grenade launching, the results are pretty dismal.
 
A grenade lauching blank carries a very hot powder charge, a noise blank still uses the same charge as that loaded to fire a projectilecharge in order to cycle the action it must build sufficient force without the aid of a projectile creating recoil, most of the blanks found these days are the Yugo versions used for grenade launching..... there are the Lupala blanks very low pressure but still must have enough to shred the wood bullet and force it clear of the Finish BFA and some bulgarian blanks......

The purpose of a blank fireing adapter is to seal the muzzle to build enough force to cycle the action this is why ya must have a solidly mounted heavy duty adapter ya are sealing that charge...... blanks are also very hard on the guns bore as the heat and gas do not exit freely usually trashing the first 6" of the muzzle if used extensively as ya have a very high pressure high heat gas being confined to that portion of the muzzle.
 
I don't claim to know everything about guns, but the physics classes I took all those years ago tell me that the pressure would be no greater in the last 6" of the bore would be no greater than the pressure in the first 6" when firing a blank with a BFA. When using a ball round, you have what is basically a piston with greater pressure behind it. With a blank round, the powder would burn and you would have a "cloud" or column of hot gas moving down the bore unrestricted until it reaches the BFA. The BFA, by constricting the muzzle, keeps the pressure high enough at the port to cycle the action. Please explain how temperature and pressure can be higher in the last 6" than in any other part of the bore.
 
Joe, I'm just going on a few thousand AKs and SKSs that were used as training rifles, and for launching grenades etc... don't know what the physics are involved really doesn't matter the barrels of real rifles used in the manner always have bore damage at the last 6" were all the powder reside comes to an abrupt stop and is trapped...... ever notice the muzzle flash from a firearm....... well thats the result of unburnt powder a BFA does not allow that powder to be burned in the atmosphere as it forms a plug with a 3 mm hole in it to release pressure ALL of that unburnt powder is trapped at the end of the muzzle.......... in the last 6" or so...... see no physics needed ya simply got an accumulation of unburnt powder trapped at the end of your barrel being re-ignited over and over while it adhears to the surface of your bore...... as it it trapped at the end the heat is also held at that point as well Ohhh and so is the pressure from each blank fired ya see the gas hits the adapter and.... the pressure is bled off via the action cycling and via the 3 mm hole in the BFA then bang ya start all over again...... like I said no physics or science involved just an observation from 34 years of workin with these guns.... I've never been intrested in commercial arms they bore me to sleep so all of my experience is with military weapons and ALOT of that involves rifle launched grenades and BFA used for training and ceremonial.

take a look at the bores of some movie prop guns....... the rifling is all but non-existant at the muzzle right behind the permanently afixed BFA mounted inside the barrel....... ya see up until recently thats been Omega Weapons primary client base the movie industry I get to make as well as repair hundreds of these prop guns every year always the same thing......... when ya check the welds on the BFA mounted in the barrels...... rifling trashed, we regularily get em in for inspection as most were at one time real guns before being modified alota of em are actually NFA registered simply because they have authentic recievers the barrels are simply modified for blanks only.... gotta have absolute realism for Hollywierd
 
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