When to polish your brass

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doeslayer

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I was wondering if most people polish their brass before or after they size it. I have been doing it after to clean the lube off, but was wondering if the tumbling could bend or dammage tha brass.
 
I clean mine before I resize it to help protect the dies--I don't polish it.
I tumble mine after resizing to clean off the lube---I leave them in the tumbler long enuf to make them purddy.
Tumbling will not damage brass.
 
I clean mine before I resize it to help protect the dies--I don't polish it.
I tumble mine after resizing to clean off the lube---I leave them in the tumbler long enuf to make them purddy.
Tumbling will not damage brass.

^ ^ ^ ^ ^
This.

Sent from the Hyundai of the droids, the Samsung Replenish, using Tapatalk.
 
I decape then run them through the sonic cleaner so it cleans the primer pockets. After sizing I tumble for a little while, just to remove the lube
 
Tumble with walnut prior to depriming, deprime, size, tumble with corn cob to remove lube.

For bottle neck rifle cartridges, if you size only the neck with a Lee Collet Neck Sizing die, no lube is required and no tumbling to remove it; however, certain restrictions apply...i.e., round should be fire formed in the specific weapon first and then neck sized.
 
I tumble before resizing. If I resize first, some tumbling media occasionally gets stuck in the flash hole. Sizing/depriming afterwards ensures that the decapping pin clears the whole.

On handgun rounds I only use carbide dies so there's no lube to worry about getting off. For rifle rounds its easy enough to just keep a paper towel next to the bench and wipe the rounds off after I finish them. I never do more than 25 or so rifle rounds at a time anyways.
 
I tumble for an hour or so, resize, trim, ream & chamfer, clean primer pockets, wipe off with acetone, and then tumble for a good 10 or 12 hrs.. I started using acetone or denatured alcohol many years ago, primarily to eliminate all lube residue.

It is very important the outside of the brass and chamber be free of any residue, especially anything that is a lubricant or moisture. All firearms rely on case seize to facilitate the complete directional management of the high pressure gases created by the burning propelants. Without complete management of the pressure seal between those two entities, bad and unpredictable things begin to happen including ruptured cases, lug set back, and a host of other undesireable things. I don't usually handle my loaded rounds with my bare hands if I can help it.
 
Above post #3 is what a lot of people do with their brass when cleaning it. Your brass only needs to be clean and free of lube, and dirt, no "polishing" is required to make usable ammo. It just looks better to some. I will polish my brass if it is going to be stored for a long time, otherwise I shoot it and reload it again repeatedly.
Tumbling the brass should not damage it in any way other than remove a thin layer of surface contamination.
 
Throw in tumble again for lubed cases, like .32-20, and bottle necked rifle calibers.
 
Lube? What Lube?

I now clean and polish my brass using Stainless Steel pin type media.

I first de-prime using a universal de-priming die then into the cleaner.

From there it gets sized (neck only) using a Lee Collet Die. No lube no mess.

Next it's trim and they get loaded.

If any cases start to get a little difficult to chamber they get a shoulder bump and any lube required for that is wiped off with a rag.
 
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