Which revolver is better for reloading, 38 Special or 357 Magnum?

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LiveLife

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I would like to pick up a S&W 686 for retirement but have some questions:

- I am mainly going to reload and shoot .38 Spl cases/loads

- Another reason is to have a training platform for future family members who may desire to learn to reload for revolver (all of my current family members shoot semi-auto only)

- Revolver will only be used for range shooting as G27/G20SF will be used for SD/woods carry

I have thought about using 357 cases with 38 level loads to keep the cylinder cleaner but asked myself, why not just get a 38 Spl revolver? I have reloaded 38Spl/357Mag loads and shot them in family/friends' S&W/Ruger/Taurus revolvers but not very familiar with various revolver models.


What do you think? Should I get a 38 Spl or 357 Mag? How about between 4" and 6" barrel?

And if buying used, what brands/models would you recommend for low volume range shooter?


Thank you.
 
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If you're only going to shoot 38spl loads, buy a 38spl. Though you can do both with the 357. The S&W my sister-in-law has is nice. I like Ruger's offerings. Stay away from Charter Arms, I have a high mis-fire rate with that gun, I have to use Winchester primers to have it fire decently, it just doesn't like CCI primers.
 
Personally I would go with the S&W 686. While I don't own a 686 I do have a S&W 586 as well as several 357 Magnum revolvers. In addition to regular 357 loads I also shoot plenty of 38 Special loads in them. Making sure after 38 Special loadings the cylinders are thoroughly cleaned. For target enjoyment I especially enjoy hand loaded 148 Grain DEWC (Wad Cutters). I would go with a good quality 357 revolver.

As to barrel? I like both 4" and 6" equally. Since these revolvers are for pure enjoyment I am not concerned with making them easier to conceal with a shorter barrel for example.

As to hand loading? Really matters not to me. Both 357 Magnum and 38 Special are easily loaded with no shortage of great bullets available.

Just My Take....
Ron
 
I would get the .357mag. You have the option of the more powerful or less powerful of the two cartridges. I would suggest doing exactly what you are considering with light 357s. I do that in mine (and in my 44) with very pleasant results. I can shoot earsplitters or I can shoot cap gun noises. I can shoot wrist tweakers or I can shoot very soft loads. Just get very different bullets that are easily distinguishable while loaded so that you can sort them when you manage to dump one box in with the other. I use cast lead for light loads and jhp for pretty stiff rounds. For REALLY stiff rounds I use a jfp that is heavier...and you feel the weight when you pick the round up. I also load my 38s similarly. Cast for really really really light loads (500fps) and jacketed for loads in the range that the manuals say is safe.
 
Most answers to your questions can be answered with, personal preference.

Also, complete essays can written as to the advantages of either gun, so be prepared for a lot of opinions.

To boil it down, since it is your first 38/357, I'd make it a 357. That way you have more versatility and options down the road.

Another plus, it is a heavier frame, meaning less recoil not only for you, but more enjoyable for other family members.

Barrel length? Countless articles have been written on the subject.

When I was young, I could shoot a 6" more accurate than a 4". When I hit 50, it reversed. I can even shoot 2-3" barrels better. I never knew why until I read an article by Massad Ayoob about how our eyes focus better with shorter barrels as we age. But again, personal preference.

You can't go wrong with a 686.
Nothing bad about Ruger either.

Taurus has had some bad press in the past on warranty issues. That may have been cleaned now, I'm not sure.
 
If i were to have one 38 caliber revolver, i would get a 357 Magnum. It can always be loaded down.

Just use 357 Magnum cases if you are worried about carbon build up in the cylinder, or clean it well periodically.

I like my S&W 686, but a Ruger or Colt if you willing to buy used would serve you well as well.

I used to shoot a lot of 38 Special rounds in my S&W Model 19 (357 Magnum) and never had a problem with carbon build up in the cylinder. Recently, i got a S&W Model 14 (38 Special), both 6" K frames so I now segregate cases by firearm.

I have passed the time where I get my jollies from full power 357 Magnum loads. Pretty much all I load for the 357 Magnum guns now is a top 38 Special level load.

Hope this helps.
 
Which barrel length can you shoot best?

When I was younger with very sharp vision, I could shoot 6" or 7 1/8" much better then 4" barrels.

Now at 70, I can see the front sight better on 4" guns.

You should try both before deciding.

Myself?
I would buy the .357.
And a cordless drill and .40 bore brush to clean the chambers in less then a minute!

It will give you the option of using .357 just for giggles once & a while!

(It won't do anything for your NRA Bullseye target accuracy using .38 Wadcutters though!)

rc
 
IMO the carbon ring left behing by .38 Special ammo shot in a .357 Magnum is blown WAY OUT of proportion. I shoot .38 specials in my M686 all the time and I have never had a problem with a carbon ring. If you do your normal cleaning after a range trip the point is moot.

I have several .38 Special and .357 Magnum revolvers and I like shooting them all. If you like the S&W M686 buy one and don't worry about shooting .38 Special ammo in it... I'll say it again, I have NEVER had a problem with a carbon ring.
 
Get a 357. You can load it any way you like. Simple.
We shoot 38 in 357 and have very good results. Just me.
 
Between my wife and I, we shoot about 8,000 rounds of .38's per year, all in .357 Magnum revolvers and Marlin rifles. The .357 Magnum is versatile, while the .38 Special is limited.

Of the .38/.357 revolvers we own, only two of them are for .38 Special only. The other 20 or so are all chambered for .357 Magnum.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
It sounds like a S&W 686 would suit you just fine.

My suggestion is a .357 magnum revolver with a 4" barrel. There is much more versatility in that chambering, especially with reloading your own cartridges, and the 4" barrel would make a nice training platform, especially with the lighter loads.

Then again, you would NOT go wrong with a .38 spl. revolver, such as a S&W Model 10 or Model 15, whether in a heavy barrel or a pencil barrel.

Either cartridge is an easy size to load, so no matter which way you go, lots of enjoyment is in your future.

Perhaps if you keep an open mind, and a pocket full of cash, when the 'right' revolver is in your hand, you will know it.
 
ArchAngleCD said:
IMO the carbon ring left behing by .38 Special ammo shot in a .357 Magnum is blown WAY OUT of proportion. I shoot .38 specials in my M686 all the time and I have never had a problem with a carbon ring. If you do your normal cleaning after a range trip the point is moot.

I haven't had any problem with carbon rings either. And I'm not what you'd consider a gun cleaning fanatic. With the exception of my carry gun, mine are only cleaned once or twice a year (usually once). The carry gun is cleaned about twice as often, which is considered neglect by many who post here.
 
Just to be contrary, a .357 costs most and is a little heavier. I have both .38's and .357's and I'm not sure which I like better. I could be perfectly happy with just a .38 ;)
 
If you want or need the extra power of the magnum at times then get the magnum but if you are looking for a nice target revolver the 4" S&W 15 (blued) or 67 (stainless) are a really nice shooting gun in .38 spl. If you are going to shoot mostly .38 spl and only shoot magnums occasionally look for a good K frame 19 or 66 in 4" or 6" barrel as they are a lighter gun that's easier for youngsters and women to shoot.

I like the 4" barrel for most situations and the long 6" or 8-3/8" for mostly a hunting pistol. No need to worry about the shorter special case leaving that fouling ring in the magnum cylinder if you clean your firearms regularly.
 
Just to be contrary, a .357 costs most and is a little heavier. I have both .38's and .357's and I'm not sure which I like better. I could be perfectly happy with just a .38 ;)
That's not being a contrarian, there are times I like to shoot my M10 too. There is something special about the balance of a K frame which an L frame just can't match but if I had only a L frame I could be happy...
 
I have fired most likely a couple of hundred thousand 38 in 357 guns. I've never had an issue with gunk in the cylinder as I clean my guns regularly. Get the 357 as you can always load down. A 4" 357 is the best all around handgun IMO.
 
Buy the 357. I shoot bullseye with revolvers and use a pair of smiths, a 686 and a M19.

If you want to shoot 38s go for it. If you want to shoot done fire breathers, you still can.

The whole crud ring from 38s thing is way overblown.
 
Thanks. Great! Getting a real education here on 38/357 revolvers.

Reading some of your posts, I may have to get one of each. :D

So far I have the following. Would any of these be OK?

S&W:
38 - M10, M14, M15 or K frame 67
357 - L frame 686, K frame 19 or 66

earplug said:
One of the new 9mm guns might be perfect for you.
Since I want to use the revolvers as training platform for reloading with roll crimps, 9mm revolvers with moonclips would not work. Thanks for the suggestion though.

You know about 18 years ago, there was an old revolver shooter who would come out to the local USPSA matches on occasion and shot with moonclips. Well, he didn't shoot as fast as Jerry Miculek but would absolutely kick the fastest open/limited shooters' butts and post fastest stage times and scores. He never missed! Headshots were his specialty and changed moonclips faster than we changed our mags! Unbelievable.

After seeing him shoot a stage, I offered him a soda and we became an instant teacher/student. Now I wish I had spent more time with him.
 
So far I have the following. Would any of these be OK?

S&W:
38 - M10, M14, M15 or K frame 67
357 - L frame 686, K frame 19 or 66

Any of those would do just fine, they are all very good revolvers. Are you set on finish as in stainless or nickle? Would blued be OK? If blued will work toss a S&W 586 in the lot. :) Of those mentioned I like the L frame 686 or as I mentioned a 586.

Ron
 
Would any of these be OK?

S&W:
38 - M10, M14, M15 or K frame 67
357 - L frame 686, K frame 19 or 66

If you want adjustable sights in a 38 Special, an M14, M15 or M67 are the way to go.

If you plan to shoot alot of near full powder 357 Magnum loads, i would get the M686 or M586. The M19 has a reputation of cracking the forcing cone of the barrel with a steady diet of hot loads. Mine did. I do not know if the M66 has the same problem but it is the same design as the M19.

The grip frames on the K frame and L frame guns are the same so you can get the same feel between the two. It is just the L frames will be heavier.
 
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Cfullgraf brings up a good point that I overlooked as to fixed or adjustable sights? You may want to put some thought into that.

Ron
 
Either, as it doesn't matter from a reloading perspective. Do you think you will ever want the extra power?

Many, many, fine choices out there.
 
My 686 6" shoots groups about the same as my Colt Gold Cup and M52. Its scary accurate. There is something very special about that gun. The M67 4 inch makes a great little sister for shooting swaged wadcutters and cast double ended wadcutters. Adjustable sights are a big plus for the varying velocities you can load.

Both are predrilled for a mounting plate for reddots, that take aging eyesight out of the equation.

With these two, you'll have endless reload possibilities.
 
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